Wood for vise jaws: Hardwood or SPF?

My vise is beech but to be honest in my opinion it doesn’t matter. I used the beech because its what I had in the shop at the time. I feel that softwood grips a bit better but it does get beat up faster. Mine has leather glued to the inside to help with grip. Use whatever is handy and line it with cork/rubber/leather and it will be fine

-- Jerry H - Holland Michigan

I used 6/4 maple on mine. But mainly becuase I wanted the sides to extend past the jaws on each side to make it easier to clamp pieces for dovetailing etc. I didn’t want any flex doing this. The 6/4 maple works well for the this whereas thinner/softer woods would flex like crazy with some of the things I have clamped. The only problem with hard maple is its not real grippy so i lined the jaws with suede.

I have a complete antique leg vise that I bought for the hardware, but the original jaws are just plain old pine. Ya know what? That thing grips like a BEAR. the ONLY reason I made new jaws was so they would fit into the bench I was making at the time, but I copied the original very closely, using reclaimed lumber. Still grips like no one’s business. Easy and inexpensive if it ever needs to be replaced, which I doubt it ever will.

-- Barry, in Maryland

SPF will usually be sawn for greatest yield, so getting something quarter sawn (a more stable cut) won’t be easy to find. Getting QS hardwoods isn’t that hard to find, so based on that I would go hardwood, and QS. You will see less movement, and specifically almost eliminate cupping, which is what I am used to seeing on benches made with SPF chops.

I don’t want the uneven clamping of cupped boards. I want a secure, flat faced grip.

-- Think safe, be safe

It makes no difference, as they are sacrificial and easily replaceable..

-- Bondo Gaposis

As Bonogaposis says they are sacrificial and replaceable. Any racking when clamping with one end of the vice will be in the hardware not the wood just use a spacer same thickness as work to stop or minimize the racking. softwood or hardwood use what you have available.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

Thanks guys. Next question is about thickness. Is 1.5” thick enough for 3/4” dogs in the jaws?

-- Les

I’d agree that the type of wood is not critical, and also that stable (quartersawn) is helpful. SYP can be resinous, so make sure the piece you put at the surface doesn’t have so much pitch it gets on your working stock. If it does, line the vise with cork or something.

With regard to thickness with dogs, it depends on the type of vise. If there’s a metal jaw you are lining with wood, 1.5” is plenty. If the wood is the whole jaw, I would go a bit thicker, 2-3”. Also, planing a slight taper so that it meets first on top, and does not close further down until you crank on the pressure helps to make sure it always grips well. This can make a thicker vise jaw more desirable: if you screw up or it warps, a thicker jaw still can be removed and planed to make it behave. A thinner jaw may need a lining glued on if it misbehaves.

-- Alan in Wisconsin

Thanks for all the experienced advice. In the category of using what I could put my hands on, there was nothing of interest in the dimensional lumber locally so I made the trip to the nearest hardwood store. I found a scrap piece of white oak for $8/bf already milled S3S to 1-1/2” so I made due and got the vise built and finished to match the old benchtop. It’s easier on the eyes than a bright shiny “add-on”. I guessed on the dog hole positions. Should have done more research and gone with the first one 2” in instead of 4”. Ordered some dogs and will drill some holes next; maybe edge band the bench with the leftover white oak. I’ll see how it goes. Thanks again.

-- Les