Deep pour epoxy, shop temperature?

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Forum topic by willhime posted 05-28-2022 07:03 AM 320 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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220 posts in 3029 days

05-28-2022 07:03 AM

Topic tags/keywords: jig question resource tip trick finishing

I’m making my first resin filled live edge dining table for a friend/client. The most experience I have is filling voids here and there. I’m concerned about several things.

1) I live in Texas. The inside of my shop gets up to 105 sometimes and I’m anxious about the exothermic reaction.

2) dust getting into it. I’ll probably make a small finish room inside my shop specifically for this. Is there anything else that aid this ?

3) product clarity. Every resin/epoxy claims to have the ‘best’ crystal clear dried appearance. I’m doing a 1/8” pour of solid black, then the rest crystal clear so the live edges can be seen; while letting the black act as if the ‘river’ is too deep to see the bottom. Is there a solid brand that most resin users trust over the others ? I use west systems, but it yellows after awhile.
Someone mentioned dropping a small amount of blue dye to counteract the clear resin yellowing after a year or so. Is there any truth to this ?

-- Burn your fire for no witness

2 replies so far

View CaptainKlutz's profile


5726 posts in 2984 days

#1 posted 05-28-2022 10:27 AM

Random comments in random order:

- Typically rule of thumb: epoxy cure rate is 2x faster and pot life is 0.5x shorter for every 10° degree rise in ambient temp.
Considering the normal suggested working temp is 75°, attempting to use any casting epoxy resin above 85-90° is asking for trouble. If resin system cures too fast, it can trap air easier, and maybe even yellow due excess exothermic temperature rise. Find a way to keep temp below 85° till it sets (1-4 hours) after mixing the epoxy, or don’t mix it.

- West systems is laminating resin. It is not intended for thick section casting. Even the slowest curative only recommends a 1/4” max thickness. You need to find/use an epoxy designed for thicker 1.5-2” sections poured in a river table. There are many brands, with similar chemistry, each optimized for different casting thickness.

- Dark black is very hard color to create in epoxy. It can get expensive to add enough pigment to make it translucent and stop light from back side. Understand the reason for it’s use, but won’t get effect you desire.
In order to stop light intrusion through bottom, spray/brush some black paint on bottom epoxy surface when done. :)
A better method of creating illusion of depth is to cast several layers of epoxy, each with different color, getting lighter/clear towards top. The transition between colors creates an optical illusion of much longer distance. You don’t need or want each layer to fully cure, all it needs to do is set. If you wait for full hard cure, the surface must be sanded to ensure adhesion between layers.

- Don’t need to add blue dye to a clear casting epoxy. The casting epoxy mfg has most likely already used that trick to hide the natural yellow tint of curatives. :)

Best Luck.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, Doom, despair, agony on me… - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

View willhime's profile


220 posts in 3029 days

#2 posted 05-31-2022 07:59 AM

Thanks for all the info. It’ll definitely help my process.

As far as temperature goes, I think I’ll make a small finish room inside my shop. Then probably stick a small ac unit in it.

-- Burn your fire for no witness

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