I'm wanting to cut a dado right on the seam of a mitered corner on a box. The only thing I can think of is making a jig that holds the router at 45 degrees and slides down the corner edge. Maybe with a clamped on fence to stop the router from falling. I hope someone here has a better solution.
If I wanted to make that joint, would cut 1/2 groove width in each side of miter, BEFORE assembly. Would be simple to use same 45° blade angle and lower blade to make a partial depth cut. Use piece of wood against the fence to move the board out 1/2 width of insert, and adjust the fence once.
To cut that spline after assembly, would build a spline jig that is rotated from normal and clamps on a cross cut sled.
PS - Would be worried using router bit to cut groove in center of a miter joint. The rotation of bit would be always be pushing chips outward, attempting to open the joint. If you encounter a crack or imperfect grain direction creating a large chunk, could blow the joint apart with disastrous outcome. Using a table saw blade seems safer, as it pulls chips down and out of groove with minimal side stress.
when i got my kehoe jig they include a jig called the corner inlayer…this will do exactly what you are describing….maybe you can find someone who has this jig…i've had mine 20 yrs. so its not something new…good luck!!!!
The OP doesn't say how big the box is, but if it is small enough to handle on the table saw, I agree.
However, I think that rather than make a groove at 45 deg, I would cut a rabbet (sides 90 deg to box faces). And, then glue in a triangular decorative piece (or square and shave the 45 after gllue-up). This way, it would be easier to cut and there would be less chance of tear-out. Also, it could be easily cut with a router.
OK funny story, I usually don't share how stupid I can be but this was so long ago I think I can.
So, being the inventor kind of guy I am, a figured out a solution to do the same cut above, it was so simple, I couldn't believe it wasn't already being done.
I got as far as a napkin drawing up my thoughts before I figured out the problem. It was quite the DA moment for me. I had to keep it around for the laugh.
A different approach I've used to accomplish the same effect.
1) determine the box side length plus 1/2 the diameter of the inlay. This will be the length of the completed box side.
2) with a flat bottom dado on the TS or with an appropriate size bit at the router table, plow a dado, crossgrain,
to the proper depth.
3) choose the inlay material of contrasting wood and glue it into the dado. This inlay MUST have the grain direction of the sides.
4) run the board through the planer to level the inlay with the board.
5) at the bandsaw cut the sections down the middle of the inlay.
6) back at the TS, tilt the blade to 45 (for a 4-sided box). Determine the width of the inlay, measure 1/2 the width, draw a vertical line on the piece facing the blade and make the cuts.
7) do the same on the opposite end of each side, this time using a stop block to insure uniformity. The effect, if miters close properly, is a solid strip of inlay.
Don't know how to post a picture but I recently made a six-sided pot pourrie(sp?) box using this technique and the inlays appear to be solid corner inlays. It's a time consuming process, but in my opinion, worth the time spent.
I'm missing something. That is way more complex and difficult than it needs to be. Why are you cutting a 45 deg dado rather than a simple rabbet that can be simply cut with a rabbeting bit with a bearing guide? Or, if the box is small enough to handle, it can be done on the table saw. See #5 above.
This worked well for me on the table saw when making some hexagon tubes for a kaleidoscope. I made mine a lot deeper because I turned the center part of the shaft round on the lathe so the spline had to go below the round finished diameter.
If I was doing this there would be three options I'd consider (easiest to more difficult).
1. As Bilyo describes, cut a rabbet then inlay, then trim to 45.
2. Table saw with blade tilted to 45.
3. Could use a router with a cradle at 45 deg, kinda like what people who flute on lathe turnings use.
Art Betterley does make a router base for doing this.
But, I like the idea of a rabbit, gluing in a square block, then routing with a 45 chamfer bit.
cutting the triangle to fit perfect would be a little harder to fit.
complex? maybe!
time consuming? sure! I'm 83, retired and have zero time constraints.
Remember, I made a 6-sided box (10 of them, in fact, for family, neighbors, and friends).
You referenced #5… I cut the sides from the board vertically (1/2 the inlay on each end) and took them to the TS. You said "why are you cutting a 45 deg dado"? I didn't mean a dado. On a small sled, specifically for box making , tuned to .003 (5 cut method) and a crosscut blade tilted 30 deg I made the miter cuts, leaving the inlay material at desired width on each end of each side.
I didn't refer to my process as the ONLY way but as "a different approach to achieve the same effect". It works for me since I have no concerns about the time spent making sawdust.
complex? maybe!
time consuming? sure! I m 83, retired and have zero time constraints.
Remember, I made a 6-sided box (10 of them, in fact, for family, neighbors, and friends).
You referenced #5… I cut the sides from the board vertically (1/2 the inlay on each end) and took them to the TS. You said "why are you cutting a 45 deg dado"? I didn t mean a dado. On a small sled, specifically for box making , tuned to .003 (5 cut method) and a crosscut blade tilted 30 deg I made the miter cuts, leaving the inlay material at desired width on each end of each side.
I didn t refer to my process as the ONLY way but as "a different approach to achieve the same effect". It works for me since I have no concerns about the time spent making sawdust.
I respect your methods and techniques. I was simply expressing, for the benefit of the OP, that I think there is an easier and less complicated way to achieve the end result he is looking for. No offense intended.
The OP doesn t say how big the box is, but if it is small enough to handle on the table saw, I agree.
However, I think that rather than make a groove at 45 deg, I would cut a rabbet (sides 90 deg to box faces). And, then glue in a triangular decorative piece (or square and shave the 45 after gllue-up). This way, it would be easier to cut and there would be less chance of tear-out. Also, it could be easily cut with a router.
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