Drawer options on mid century table

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Forum topic by asb posted 01-27-2022 04:21 AM 369 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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9 posts in 1036 days

01-27-2022 04:21 AM

Building something akin to this, but struggling to think through the drawers.

Would like to make the drawer faces from the parts I’ll remove from the face. Thoughts on how to remove those sections cleanly? I don’t have a bandsaw. Jigsaw with straight edge?

5 replies so far

View Aj2's profile


4454 posts in 3257 days

#1 posted 01-27-2022 04:52 AM

Your solution is easy.
Have a bandsaw
The finger joints exposed on the face of the drawers is gross. Consider half blind dovetails or a drawer lock joint.
Good Luck

-- Aj

View Rich's profile


8120 posts in 2048 days

#2 posted 01-27-2022 05:42 AM

On your table saw (hopefully you have one), rip the apron sections above and below the drawer layer. Then crosscut the drawer fronts from the middle section left after the previous step. Glue the apron sections back together and the remaining pieces are your drawer fronts.

You’ll have to account for the kerf in your measurements for the height of that apron piece. It’ll need to be 2 times the kerf width wider than the side and back apron pieces. (Hint: it’s easier to do the final trim for all four apron pieces after you’ve glued the front).

You’ll also have to make adjustments to those parts so the reveal around the drawers is even. I’m sure you can figure that out.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Robert's profile


4988 posts in 2939 days

#3 posted 01-27-2022 02:47 PM

I wouldn’t use a jig saw.

Assuming you don’t have a table saw, you can use a circular saw with a straight edge guide.

Either way you will have to joint the edges of the rails, and center section with a hand plane until you get a good joint.

Then cut the drawer out of the center section. The center sections either side will be shorter than the rails by the kerf.

Glue up the whole shebang with the drawer in place. Use wax paper or tape around the edges. Remove the drawer and you’ve just got a little tune up to get the reveal right.

I agree, those box joints are uuuuuugly!!!

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View NohoGerry's profile


58 posts in 169 days

#4 posted 02-05-2022 05:42 PM

I’ve used the technique described by Rich and would recommend that.

You need a tablesaw, and ideally a jointer, to make sure the edges of the pieces you glue back together make thejoint invisible. Just a tablesaw will work if your blade produces a fine cut. A jigsaw cut, even with a straight edge, won’t give the same results.

View LesB's profile


3471 posts in 4902 days

#5 posted 02-06-2022 01:33 AM

Rich has a good suggestion and if you are careful you can have the wood grain on drawer fronts flow or match with the rest of the piece….which the builder of your example did not do. In other words they are all cut out of the same board and re-addembled. Be sure to allow for the loss of wood from the saw kerf when you glue the skirt pieces back on which also means the skirt needs to start slightly longer and wider than the finished product will be…..hope that is not confusing??

There are any number of ways to join the drawer fronts to the sides without exposed finger joints which make it look like old wood apple boxes. The simplest is to build the drawer (all 4 sides and bottom) and fasten the front onto it with a couple of screws from the inside. This will also allow for any alignment adjustments you might need to make.

-- Les B, Oregon

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