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Cleaning a cutting board before finishing

5K views 36 replies 13 participants last post by  ChefHDAN 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
So this is something that I haven't seen answered, after watching many videos about making cutting boards and reading many posts. After sanding, and before finishing with mineral oil, how should the board be cleaned? Is it the typical method for wood projects (blow off with compressed dry air, then go over with mineral spirits on a rag, then wait for it to dry and finally finish it) or is it something else? I'm getting ready to finish my first cutting board. Thank for any advice in advance. By the way it is an end grain cutting board made of Walnut, Padauk, Bloodwood and African Mahogany.
 
#2 ·
I do it exactly as you described - blast with compressed air then wipe down with mineral spirits. Be sure to blow the end grain thoroughly because really fine sanding dust can get packed down in there.
 
#3 ·
HokieKen has your answer.

I would add that you need to be cautious about that Bloodwood the red color can dissolve in the oil and bleed into the surrounding pieces. Because you other woods are dark it may not be a problem.

I'm repeating myself but I don't care for mineral oil as a finish because it never dries or cures. I would suggest you look into processed walnut oil (Mahoney's is one brand). It soaks in well and cures to a dry finish at the same time it also strengthens the wood fibers. It is not allergenic so no nut allergy problems. I usually put on 3 or 4 coats and then like almost all cutting board finished apply additional coats as usage dictates.
 
#5 ·
I'm not sure about using MS (Stoddard solvent) on anything I plan someone, or myself to use with food. MS poisoning is a thing, and I've never seen a "safe" amount to be used for individual consumption, or even breathing in fumes, so I'm gonna stay off of it for food related products.

I'm assuming it's use would be for raising the grain, before final sanding, so your food safe mineral oil doesn't on application. Water works wonderfully to do that, if it is the point of the MS use.

I do use MS often, just not for food related.
 
#7 ·
I use mineral spirits to clean wood because it flashes off relatively quickly. Especially compared to water. I thought MS was food safe as long as it dried completely. But thanks for bringing it up, I'll reinvestigate. I have used it on every food service item I've ever made and nobody's got suck so far. So the risk seems minimal.
 
#8 ·
+1 on the Mahoney's products for food contact. I too would not want to use MS especially on end grain. I can sometimes smell it on face grain for several days so some of it lingers for a while, even when the surface looks and feels dry. The end grain will soak it up and keep it even longer. I would probably just use a wet rag (not dripping wet). Of course, you didn't really say what you are trying to clean off? If you really need a solvent a little bourbon or vodka might do the trick.
 
#9 ·
i would never use any kind of solvent on a cutting board for food use.i just wipe em clean and soak with mineral oil.i am gonna try the walnut oil lesb talks about,sounds like a better coating.les always steers me in the right direction.
 
#10 ·
LesB - your recommendation got me looking at walnut oil options. Some reviewers commented on the finish not drying (i.e., leaving a ring on a paper towel days or weeks later). Have you found that to be an issue? Maybe was an application error but saw that concern in a few reviews. Interested on your experience and process.
 
#12 ·
+1 on the Mahoney s products for food contact. I too would not want to use MS especially on end grain. I can sometimes smell it on face grain for several days so some of it lingers for a while, even when the surface looks and feels dry. The end grain will soak it up and keep it even longer. I would probably just use a wet rag (not dripping wet). Of course, you didn t really say what you are trying to clean off? If you really need a solvent a little bourbon or vodka might do the trick.

- Lazyman
Lazyman - As I first posted, it's an end grain cutting board, the question was how to clean it after sanding it and before finishing it.
 
#14 ·
therealSteveN - So how do you clean a cutting board before applying finish to it?

- Lumpy63
If I'm raising grain before last work prior to finish I use water to do that, and then once dried blow it real good to dislodge any hangers on. That is my regimen if it's a food/kitchen item. Mostly I use my wide belt sander to sand end grain as slick as I can make it. I, unlike most go to 220 grit.

If it's not for food use, I'll use water, blow it out, and there I will employ a tack cloth if I feel it needs it.

+1 on the Mahoney s products for food contact. I too would not want to use MS especially on end grain. I can sometimes smell it on face grain for several days so some of it lingers for a while, even when the surface looks and feels dry. The end grain will soak it up and keep it even longer. I would probably just use a wet rag (not dripping wet). Of course, you didn t really say what you are trying to clean off? If you really need a solvent a little bourbon or vodka might do the trick.

- Lazyman
Nathan I want to thank you for that blurb about some booze, if you get too much ya might get sick, but I bet the food will taste better. :))
 
#15 ·
I guess the question you should answer is how will you clean it afterwards??? Soap & water right??

The key reason wooden boards are safer than plastic/poly boards is because the wood can absorb/wick away moisture and bacteria/pathogens need moisture to propagate. From final sand my production pieces, end & long grain, only get blown off with some air and then go into the oil tank to soak. I don't really see any need for any sort of cleaning prior to oil. Once boards are out of the tank and have had a day or two to dry they are ready to go to the customer.

My card that goes with the board instructs the owner to wash the board prior to 1st use with soap & water, using a green scothbrite for a light scrub. Same method after use. For a new board oil once a week for a month, once a month for a year and as needed thereafter.

Lots of good products on the market, I recommend the Howard's product just because they are priced right for thier effectiveness, and the products with some beeswax in them last longer than the straight mineral oil.
 
#16 ·
So a little research seems to confirm what I thought - mineral spirits leaves no residuals (harmful or otherwise) after it completely flashes off. However, it also seems that it takes longer to flash off than I thought. In the case of food contact surfaces, I saw where some people recommend 24-48 hours. Others say when you can't smell it it's completely dry. But I can attest to the fact that not all noses are equal. Especially when one of them has been hamstringed by Covid.

So in tbe future, I think I'll either do my final wipedown several days ahead of applying my final finish or just use compressed air. I really only use the mineral spirits on most pieces because it tends to show any spots with residue that may affect finishing anyway.
 
#17 ·
Thanks again for all of the valuable information. As a side note, the African Mahogany that I used is so porous that the mineral oil wicked completely through from one side to the other.. I don't think I'll use it again for an end grain cutting board.
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
LesB - your recommendation got me looking at walnut oil options. Some reviewers commented on the finish not drying (i.e., leaving a ring on a paper towel days or weeks later). Have you found that to be an issue? Maybe was an application error but saw that concern in a few reviews. Interested on your experience and process.

- BB1
I would like to see the products those reviews were written on. I suspect those folks with a drying problem may be using the grocery store food grade un-heated walnut oil. They may also have applied something else before the walnut oil that did not allow it so soak in.
I have used Mahoney's and Doctor's for over 10 years now and not had a problem with it not curing. It is processed in a heat treating process so when it is applied it is a chemical process of polymerizing that solidifies it within the wood not an evaporation/drying process. I have never tired applying it to the point it builds up a surface finish but it should work; just taking longer to cure between applications.
 
#20 ·
LesB- the review was for the Mahoney s on Woodcraft. Most were very positive, but saw the drying issue so that s why I wanted to follow up. I do see there are various Mahoneys products - am I looking at the one you use?
Thanks for sharing your experience with the finish. That s an area I really need to learn more.

- BB1
+1 im very interested to try it.les what about cutting boards that are already oiled ? wiil this oil still work ok ?
 
#21 ·
I just ordered some Odie's Oil and noticed that they say it is food safe and cures quickly. They actually advertise it as a good finish for floors (as well as cutting boards) so it can't take too long to cure for it to be a suitable finish for that. I haven't tried yet so I cannot comment about that. Out of the jar it has sort of a citrus smell so it may have some orange oil or citrus solvent of some kind in it. They do not list their ingredients anywhere that I have been able to find. It is expensive but all of the reviews I have seen say that it goes a long way so may actually not be too much more expensive than some other finishes I have tried.
 
#22 ·
ok i just gotta say the cutting board finish question has been way over thought for too long.make a board,sand it,wipe off the dust and soak it with mineral oil,then wipe dry,then use it,period.you wont die or get sick.geez!!!!!
 
#23 ·
I just hate mineral oil. It is not really a finish and it always feels oily…until it is not because it soaks in or washes off and has to be oiled again. Viscous circle.
 
#24 ·
I just hate mineral oil. It is not really a finish and it always feels oily…until it is not because it soaks in or washes off and has to be oiled again. Viscous circle.

- Lazyman
nathan understand it's a cutting board that gets used,at least mine do.there is no such thing as a "finish" on a cutting board. all you do is give the wood a protective layer againts the use.i just laugh when guys talk about sanding down to 220 or beyond,really ? it's a frickin hunk of wood to cut on on.120 grit is probably fine. if your cutting boards go through what mine do you dont worry about a "finish".
 
#25 ·
I just prefer the way Mahoney's Oil products look and feel. Plus something about putting a laxative refined from petroleum on my cutting boards. :)
 
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