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Threaded Adapter for Faceplate/1 x 8/or?

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Forum topic by adot45 posted 11-30-2021 02:48 PM 534 views 0 times favorited 38 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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adot45

463 posts in 1955 days


11-30-2021 02:48 PM

I made this gizmo for a faceplate so I could sand RM bowls on a regular lathe. Turns out it’s been handy for several other jobs as well. It works but is there a more accurate (CNC?) version made? 1×8 or MT2 mount, or any other ideas? Thanks

-- “Often wrong but never in doubt”. Dave in WV.


38 replies so far

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Lazyman

8755 posts in 2718 days


#1 posted 11-30-2021 03:11 PM

Ringmaster sells an adapter that is used for the version of the ringmaster that mounts on a regular lathe. Mine came with an MT2 adapter but I think that they sell one that threads on too. You could also simply turn a block with a dovetail designed to mount in a chuck or you could use a tap cut your own 1” x 8tpi threads on your face plate to mount it on the lathe.

EDIT: This to 1/2” x 20tpi adapter might work too but I am not sure that the threaded post is long enough to mount even a 1/2” thick base.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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adot45

463 posts in 1955 days


#2 posted 11-30-2021 03:32 PM

Thank You Lazyman, I’ll go to the RM site and check out your suggestion. My RM is the stand alone so I’ve never looked there at the accessories for the add on type…..

-- “Often wrong but never in doubt”. Dave in WV.

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adot45

463 posts in 1955 days


#3 posted 11-30-2021 05:41 PM

@Lazyman
I went to the RM site and it looks like there is one that would do just what I want it to do. However, not enough information was given in the description for me to order without some clarification. I wrote to RM and we’ll see how that goes…...I could not grasp what you are saying about turning a dovetail to mount in a chuck and all but that’s due to my lack of lathe savvy….. my faceplates are all already 1×8” so no problem there. Also, I wholeheartedly agree that a 1/2” stud is pretty much a non starter for my application. I did try cutting the hex head off of a 1/2” bolt and chucking it up in a drill chuck with MT2 but the lack of any significant backing made it pretty wobbly. Also, I have a lathe chuck that came with a screw insert that I was trying to figure out how to make one with 1/2” threads instead of the wood screw but could not muster the precision to do it. Need to watch more you tube vid’s and learn more about this stuff and especially chuck stuff. Thanks again, I appreciate the help!

-- “Often wrong but never in doubt”. Dave in WV.

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HokieKen

20613 posts in 2469 days


#4 posted 11-30-2021 06:59 PM

Do you just need an adapter with a 1”-8 female thread on one end and a 1/2-13 male thread on the other? If so, I can make you one. I don’t know how much RM charges for one but I feel pretty sure I can make it for you cheaper.

Or if a MT2 shaft will work, you can buy them with 1/2-20 threads on them if the thread pitch isn’t important.

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

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Lazyman

8755 posts in 2718 days


#5 posted 11-30-2021 07:00 PM

Scroll chucks usually have jaws with dovetail profiles. Glue a block to the back of the wood faceplate with the bolt through it and turn a dovetail tenon like bowl turners use to mount a bowl blank on the chuck.

Here is the MT2 version that came with my RM (I bought it used). It requires a draw bolt to hold it into the head stock. It looks like the ones they offer now screw onto the spindle which is easier than the MT2 and draw bolt, IMO.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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HokieKen

20613 posts in 2469 days


#6 posted 11-30-2021 07:11 PM

Can you put a live center on the end of the bolt Nathan? If you can, you should be able to do that instead of using the draw bolt. The draw bolt just prevents the lateral force you apply from breaking the taper fit and popping the arbor out. Center will do the same, just pushing instead of pulling.

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

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Lazyman

8755 posts in 2718 days


#7 posted 11-30-2021 07:46 PM

I could while cutting but that may be a bigger pain than just putting the draw bar in. Seems like most of the things I make are vases which require multiple boards so I would be constantly moving the tail stock back and forth. Basically I cut one ring from the board and move to another because the inner radius of that ring is often the outer radius of the next one which has to be cut from a different piece because of the relatively vertical sides of the vase.

Also, when truing up and sanding the inside of bowls after gluing up the rings, it would not work to have your hand or tool between the live center and inside of the bowl so the draw bar is necessary for that anyway.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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Lazyman

8755 posts in 2718 days


#8 posted 11-30-2021 07:55 PM

A 1” x 8TPI tap is pretty handy for making your own chucks and and face plates for the lathe. Here are 2 different ones I’ve made.

The left one is fo hold spheres I turn and right one is a donut chuck which is handy for cleaning up the bottoms of bowls when no other hold methods will work.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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adot45

463 posts in 1955 days


#9 posted 11-30-2021 11:32 PM



Do you just need an adapter with a 1”-8 female thread on one end and a 1/2-13 male thread on the other? If so, I can make you one. I don t know how much RM charges for one but I feel pretty sure I can make it for you cheaper.

Or if a MT2 shaft will work, you can buy them with 1/2-20 threads on them if the thread pitch isn t important.

- HokieKen

Hello Ken, sorry I’m a little late getting back to the party, had to take wife to eye appointment for her two week post cataract surgery check up. All good there and this was eye #2 so she is finished and good for another 50,000 miles.

If the 1/2” -13 is the standard size of a regular ol 1/2 inch bolt then what you describe is exactly what I need.
I like the idea of the 1×8 threaded fitment rather than the MT. The one from RM looks unnecessarily long to me and seems it would have more opportunity to introduce run-out. I do like the fact that it has a nice base (on bolt end) to snug a bottom up against though. I’d like the 1/2” bolt to be 1 1/8 ~ 1 1/4 if that’s do able because I use a lot of thick bases. I’d also like a couple of set screws 180* apart so I could use it in reverse if that’s possible. So, are we talking egg bucks here? lol

-- “Often wrong but never in doubt”. Dave in WV.

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Lazyman

8755 posts in 2718 days


#10 posted 11-30-2021 11:41 PM

It needs the flat disk area for the bottom of the bowl to register against. It is tightening the bottom against this flat that makes it stable.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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adot45

463 posts in 1955 days


#11 posted 11-30-2021 11:47 PM



Scroll chucks usually have jaws with dovetail profiles. Glue a block to the back of the wood faceplate with the bolt through it and turn a dovetail tenon like bowl turners use to mount a bowl blank on the chuck.

Here is the MT2 version that came with my RM (I bought it used). It requires a draw bolt to hold it into the head stock. It looks like the ones they offer now screw onto the spindle which is easier than the MT2 and draw bolt, IMO.

- Lazyman

I think my picture has introduced confusion as opposed to making things more clear. The picture of the wood disk with the 1/2” bolt is normally fastened to a 6” face plate….I have it off right now because I had to have an 8” glue block for a bowl I was making. On another note, the bowls I am making now start with a base glued on to a waste block and then rings are added to make the bowl. I’d like to use a chuck to start with but can’t figure out how to hold the base so I could cut the …...OMG!! I just had an idea…could I use a forstner bit to drill a 1/4” deep hole for the chuck to get inserted into? I’ve had good luck for the most part using glue blocks but I’m not crazy about the clean up of the bowl base after separating it. Thanks for you suggestions.

-- “Often wrong but never in doubt”. Dave in WV.

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HokieKen

20613 posts in 2469 days


#12 posted 12-01-2021 12:29 AM

I gotta pay for the egg somehow! ;-)

Nah, not that much. It really depends on how big it needs to be and what I can get a piece of suitable stock for.

Would it work for me to make an adapter that fit on your spindle and put a female 1/2” thread in it so you could just use whatever length bolt you want? That would make it cheaper on my end. I can definitely do it with a male thread that long but then I have to have that much longer of a bar and have to hog all that material off.

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

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adot45

463 posts in 1955 days


#13 posted 12-01-2021 01:14 AM

That sounds OK to me Ken. Then i just use a bolt and washer according to the thickness of the wood base right? Go for it.

-- “Often wrong but never in doubt”. Dave in WV.

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HokieKen

20613 posts in 2469 days


#14 posted 12-01-2021 01:21 AM

Is 1-1/2” diameter big enough or should I go bigger? And how long are the threads on your spindle?

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

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adot45

463 posts in 1955 days


#15 posted 12-01-2021 01:35 AM

Ok, give me a sec and I’ll go out to the shop and get some measurements.

I’d say an 1.5 inches should do it. I could add a larger washer to draw the wood base up against.

-- “Often wrong but never in doubt”. Dave in WV.

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