I really want to use this piece of walnut in my table top. I've never tried filling a void like this - is epoxy my best choice? (I dislike all the trendy epoxy tables, so unsure how I feel about this route).
The void is about 15" long, about 1-1/4" at the widest and about an inch deep
Any suggestions, tips or ideas? Whatever process is recommended, it'll be my first attempt at it, so no matter how trivial the tip may be, I'd appreciate it.
I'd be concerned about the distorted tissue around the void messing up your table if you glue boards to both sides. If you plan to put it on the edge no worries though.
I've never used epoxy to fill voids but from what I know of it it's probably your best option. I don't think you can run it through a planer.
I use epoxy to fill voids that large. I do believe it's your best choice. You don't need to turn it into a trendy pour with sparkly colors. I use black pigment exclusively. Using Mixol, you can go for a browner look if that's what you like.
And yes, you can run epoxy-filled boards through your planer. Just make sure it's cured.
If it were mine, I'd use epoxy + coffee grounds for a nice matching dark brown fill. Tape well to avoid leaks, and fill slightly proud of the wood so you can sand/plane it down flush after curing.
As Unix said, Epoxy to fill and tape well. Coffee grounds do look very good in walnut. I also like mica powder. Coffee grounds may not fill the smaller cracks/defects, mica powder will. Depends on the final look you are after. Properly filled and dimensioned I would use the board anywhere in the top.
I use semi-precious stones as a kind of aggregate when I fill large voids and I use clear epoxy. We have quite a collection of stones from my late father-in-law so they means something special to my wife and me. Just be sure the stones are below your finished surface height.
I'm a fan of void filling with epoxy, gives you a huge range of possibilities for accent. The only downside I see is the volume required ($$$). Resin is probably cheaper but I expect it would not have the strength I'd hope for, especially for a table top.
You could do as Brad suggests for visual effect or bury some other objects down deeper to lessen the amount of fill required.
Other than than, looks like some great wood for a top, nice grain!
I m a fan of void filling with epoxy, gives you a huge range of possibilities for accent. The only downside I see is the volume required ($$$). Resin is probably cheaper but I expect it would not have the strength I d hope for, especially for a table top.
You could do as Brad suggests for visual effect or bury some other objects down deeper to lessen the amount of fill required.
Other than than, looks like some great wood for a top, nice grain!
As Unix said, Epoxy to fill and tape well. Coffee grounds do look very good in walnut. I also like mica powder. Coffee grounds may not fill the smaller cracks/defects, mica powder will. Depends on the final look you are after. Properly filled and dimensioned I would use the board anywhere in the top.
If I were to use that piece in the middle, I'd need need to use epoxy on the cured epoxy to join to the adjacent board, yea? Wood glue on wood to wood contact, epoxy on expoxy to wood contact?
Depending on the size and shape of your table, leaving the void open could be a great visual feature; especially if you have a similar piece that you could put next to it that would mirror each other or make it appear as a continuation. You may want to stabilize it from the bottom with some bowtie or similar inlays if you do this.
I would cut that piece off.
For the long run table are better off without epoxies. Plus that's a huge defect. I see enough figured wood to the left of the crack to make nice book matched panels.
Good Luck
If I were to use that piece in the middle, I d need need to use epoxy on the cured epoxy to join to the adjacent board, yea? Wood glue on wood to wood contact, epoxy on expoxy to wood contact?
The edge will have a pretty short section of plastic exposed with plenty of support both sides, so I'm thinking just wood glue would hold up just fine unless you're going to be dancing on the table.
I'm with AJ2. I would not use that big of a void in a table glue up. Why ask for problems?
If you decide to use it and fill with epoxy you can glue it with Urethane glue(think original Gorilla glue). Put a thin coat on and clamp well but not hard. It expands as it cures. Any squeeze out should be left to cure before removal; it forms a easily scrap able foam. Put glue on one side of the joint and wipe the other side with a wet cloth or paper towel, it cures with moisture. If I used it for that joint I would continue to use it on the whole top.
I m with AJ2. I would not use that big of a void in a table glue up. Why ask for problems?
If you decide to use it and fill with epoxy you can glue it with Urethane glue(think original Gorilla glue). Put a thin coat on and clamp well but not hard. It expands as it cures. Any squeeze out should be left to cure before removal; it forms a easily scrap able foam. Put glue on one side of the joint and wipe the other side with a wet cloth or paper towel, it cures with moisture. If I used it for that joint I would continue to use it on the whole top.
As the walnut ages and gets worn it gains beauty.
As the plastic epoxy part ages and gains scratches it will gain ugly
Just my single opinion feel free to carry on as you will
Good day sir.
I m with AJ2. I would not use that big of a void in a table glue up. Why ask for problems?
If you decide to use it and fill with epoxy you can glue it with Urethane glue(think original Gorilla glue). Put a thin coat on and clamp well but not hard. It expands as it cures. Any squeeze out should be left to cure before removal; it forms a easily scrap able foam. Put glue on one side of the joint and wipe the other side with a wet cloth or paper towel, it cures with moisture. If I used it for that joint I would continue to use it on the whole top.
I've used gallons of epoxy to finish items. Forty years later, the stump tables, picture frames and so on are doing just fine. As such. I'd have zero problems with the affected area being filled with resin then put at the exposed edge of a table.
If a penetrating finish were applied to the wood (bottom and top) before the final coat, I'd have no problem with it being the center of, for example, three pieces.
For a real penetrating finish, one of the keys is, the longer you keep it wet, the more it can soak in. Add thinner to the mix, to ease penetration, and you've got maximum stabilization of the wood. Far more than a one and done top coat finish could ever give.
Like others, I think DARK brown or black epoxy would lend itself to this project just fine.
Be mindful of that the expansion of Gorilla glue does not equate to gap filling. To say Gorilla glue sucks at filling gaps is dead on or even an understatement.
f you decide to use it and fill with epoxy you can glue it with Urethane glue(think original Gorilla glue). Put a thin coat on and clamp well but not hard. It expands as it cures. . . .
- LesB
I do not recommend Urethane glue to fill gaps but for gluing dissimilar materials (and similar ones too) it works well. The fact is that it expands so it requires firm clamping. In this case wood to epoxy; wood glue would not work well. A thin coat on one side of the joint is sufficient and limits excess squeeze out. If forms a foam which is fairly easy to scrape off AFTER it cures. Also don't get on your skin or clean off quickly or the skin turns black.
Be mindful of that the expansion of Gorilla glue does not equate to gap filling. To say Gorilla glue sucks at filling gaps is dead on or even an understatement.
f you decide to use it and fill with epoxy you can glue it with Urethane glue(think original Gorilla glue). Put a thin coat on and clamp well but not hard. It expands as it cures. . . .
- LesB
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