Question for DeWalt 735 owners

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Forum topic by Sewermann posted 11-25-2021 04:06 AM 433 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3 posts in 515 days

11-25-2021 04:06 AM

Greetings. My normal routine for surface prepping lumber takes me from my (non-DeWalt 735) so-so planer to my drum sander for planer chatter removal, and then on to my random orbit sanders for finish sanding. It occurs to me that in planing with the DeWalt 735, first at the 96 cpi rate, and afterwards at the 179 cpi rate, perhaps I could skip the drum sander step and move directly from the planer to the random orbit sander and save some time. So, l’m asking you 735 owners’ if that would be a reasonable expectation? Thanks.

11 replies so far

View CWWoodworking's profile


2295 posts in 1463 days

#1 posted 11-25-2021 04:18 AM

I don’t have a dewalt but used one. They will definitely leave a surface clean enough to skip drum sander on a lot of hardwoods.

Where drum sanders excel is obviously glued up panels, figured wood. They are also great for sanding pre surfaced wood from supplier, ending up being over all faster.

View yamato72's profile


20 posts in 239 days

#2 posted 11-25-2021 06:40 AM

I don’t have a drum sander so I have to go straight to my ROS after running boards through my DW735 with the standard factory knives. I can usually start at 150 grit on hard maple.

WOOD Magazine just reviewed benchtop planers again and the 735 was still their top pick.

View Eric's profile


2269 posts in 1157 days

#3 posted 11-25-2021 11:13 AM

I read that article, and now in the shopping mood. With any of the tools, white a proper setup and fine tuning you can get a wonderful cut which does not take much in sanding.

I have an older Craftsman TS, and I barley get saw marks on the edge after a cut, a quick pass with a hand plane usually takes care of them.

Keep your cutters clean and sharp, and you can skip the drum sanding.

-- Eric, building the dream

View EarlS's profile


4805 posts in 3632 days

#4 posted 11-25-2021 11:49 AM

I rarely use the “finishing” setting as the “dimensioning” setting works just fine. The cut marks are shallow and easily removed with either the ROS or a hand belt belt sander. Skip the “finishing” setting and save some time. BTW – I generally go one turn when starting with rough lumber, then switch to 1/2 turn the rest of the way. Make sure your blades are sharp.

-- Earl "I'm a pessamist - generally that increases the chance that things will turn out better than expected"

View OldBull's profile


541 posts in 580 days

#5 posted 11-25-2021 12:48 PM

In my opinion,

The only problem with this idea is the knives. I have a couple of spots that are nicked and leave a palpable / visual (when light is just right) groove. I have to admit that I am on the original side of the original knives and have not shifted them yet to correct this. I usually RO after planer but like the workpieces look after the planer better than the RO. If I simply got off my lazy butt I would not have this problem. However with that said, I don’t have that many hours on my 735 and the nicks appeared fairly early in it’s life. A 735 with shelix head is well liked but I did not go for it because of the $435 price. A good question to ask would be, are carbide tipped standard blades more durable than OEM?

So the answer is yes, if you rotate, shift, change blades when needed or go for the byrd / sheelix cutter head mod.

I use the slower (I think 179 cpi) almost always.

P.S. I like the look of the workpiece after card scraping better than any of them.

View bondogaposis's profile (online now)


6067 posts in 3635 days

#6 posted 11-25-2021 01:27 PM

I have the 735 and a drum sander. I can’t recall ever using the drum sander after planing. Maybe it’s time to rotate your blades.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View Lazyman's profile


8229 posts in 2672 days

#7 posted 11-25-2021 01:46 PM

When the knives are new and sharp, my 735 leaves no machine marks on the finish setting that would require running them through s drum sander. My blades lasted a very long time but I am not running a lot of board feet through it like some people do. Even when I got a knick in the blades, it was easy enough to sand that out with the orbital sander since a knick causes a high spot which can very quickly be take down by sanding or a card scraper. Easy enough to shift one of the blades a little to make all defects go away until the next knick appears.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View trsnider's profile


289 posts in 3294 days

#8 posted 11-25-2021 04:04 PM

I go from the planer to ROS (but I don’t have a dram sander so … :) ). I like the finish from the planer if the knives are fresh and there’s no snipe. But I end up with the ROS usually.

On a side note the 735 isn’t made for continual use. I ran 8 or so 1O’x8” boards thru it almost continously and tripped the breaker on the planer. After a few minutes it cooled down and I was able to reset it and continue planing.
So I know to take it easier with long boards.

View dbw's profile


635 posts in 2921 days

#9 posted 11-25-2021 07:36 PM

I don t have a drum sander so I have to go straight to my ROS after running boards through my DW735 with the standard factory knives. I can usually start at 150 grit on hard maple.

- yamato72

+1 on this.

-- Woodworking is like a vicious cycle. The more tools you buy the more you find to buy.

View bbc557ci's profile


643 posts in 3358 days

#10 posted 11-25-2021 07:41 PM

Few years ago I picked up about 500 BF of rough cut ash, kiln dried. I ran both sides of each board thru my 735 somewhere between a few to several times, to get to the desired thickness. That, plus the usual planing of this and that of other species as time went on. Very minor sanding needed after planing due to shallow ridges from blade nicks. I’ve never tripped the breaker on the planer or in the sub panel my tools run off of even with continuous use. I just recently turned the blades over to the new/fresh cutting edges to start on my recently acquired 450 BF of Poplar. I expect it will go thru the Poplar like a hot knife thru butter, compared to the Ash lol.

My 735 has been without a doubt the most dependable trouble free, zero to little fussing around necessary, tool in my shop. If something happened to it such that it wasn’t repairable, I’d buy another Dewalt 735. Well, unless I won the lottery. Win the lottery and I’d prolly go bigger (o:

-- Bill, central where near the "big apple"

View Knockonit's profile


1018 posts in 1486 days

#11 posted 11-25-2021 08:55 PM

the 735 is great, but since i got a 15inch delta, it sets off by itself, also use a 12.5 inch delta for small crap, its on a flip cart so its easy to maneuver, only issue i’ve had with planer is the figured wood, tends to give it a rip or two, so once close to the size, run it thru drum sanders a bit. cleans up nicely if they run right, dang things eat paper for sure
rj in az

-- Living the dream

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