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Forum topic by Bill1958 posted 11-19-2021 03:48 PM 449 views 1 time favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bill1958

5 posts in 518 days


11-19-2021 03:48 PM

Hi All:
I am trying to stain some clear pine that has 16ga. finish nail holes in it. I have used the Elmer’s Wood Filler, sanded to what I thought was back to bare wood for the surrounding area, then stained it. The stain shows up the wood filler in the surrounding area. Can I just resand the affected areas, and will that eventually work, or is there some other option/method? I am using Minwax Cherrywood Gel Stain.
Any advice would be appreciated, other than seeing an eye doctor! :-)
Thanks!

-- Bill. Truly, an amateur!


8 replies so far

View Vicki's profile

Vicki

1211 posts in 4684 days


#1 posted 11-19-2021 06:06 PM

When I use FN or BN’s I put a piece of masking tape on the area where the nail goes, then shoot the nail through it. I put the filler in the hole right through the tape. Usually when I pull off the tape I barely have to sand. I also switched to a better filler: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B09JMG2TF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 . This stuff is great. Keeps for a long time, years even. Just add water when it hardens a little.

-- Vicki on the Eastern Shore of MD

View LesB's profile

LesB

3249 posts in 4783 days


#2 posted 11-19-2021 06:44 PM

I don’t use Elmer’s so I looked it up. They appear to have several types with some listed as paintable but no reference to stain and others listed as stainable. It is not unusual for the filled hole to stand out because it does not match the wood grain but if the surrounding area is affected then the filler solvent must be penetrating the wood and causing this. Be sure the filler is not solvent based. The other possibility is that the filler it getting into the grain of the wood surrounding the hole. Red oak or walnut are notorious for their open grains. With pine (no open grain but the wood is porous) you should be able to sand it off but be careful not to create a depression by sanding just the spot.

I found the Famowood water based fillers work well and it comes in colors that closely match the wood used. It has a long shelf life if kept sealed and water can be added if it starts to dry out in the container.

Vicki’s idea, above, is a good one to keep the filler off the surrounding wood and out of the wood grain

Not on point of the question but pine can be difficult to stain and it usually pays to use a sealer first. A 2# cut of de-waxed shellac would do the job. Zinssers has a sealer that is just that. Apply a coat (or two) of it, it dries in 30 minutes or so. Sand lightly and then stain. As is universally recommended do a test on scraps first.

-- Les B, Oregon

View Rich's profile

Rich

7754 posts in 1929 days


#3 posted 11-20-2021 01:26 AM

Trying to stain filler to match the surrounding wood is a lesson in frustration. What you want to do is find a filler to match the stained wood.

For nail holes on a surface that won’t receive a lot of wear, a product like Mohawk Fil-Stick is easy to use and comes in hundreds of colors. If it will see wear, go with a harder fill. Mohawk Hard Fill™ is fairly easy to use. You burn it in, but can scrape it flush easily.

The true burn in fills take some tools and time to learn, but the two mentioned should do the job for you.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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pottz

22422 posts in 2324 days


#4 posted 11-20-2021 02:57 AM



When I use FN or BN s I put a piece of masking tape on the area where the nail goes, then shoot the nail through it. I put the filler in the hole right through the tape. Usually when I pull off the tape I barely have to sand. I also switched to a better filler: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B09JMG2TF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 . This stuff is great. Keeps for a long time, years even. Just add water when it hardens a little.

- Vicki


+1 best filler ive ever used and your technique i gotta remember to try next time.thank you.

-- working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

View BurlyBob's profile

BurlyBob

9521 posts in 3605 days


#5 posted 11-21-2021 05:02 PM

I totally agree with Pottz. I’ve completely switched to Timber mate.

View Bill1958's profile

Bill1958

5 posts in 518 days


#6 posted 11-26-2021 04:25 PM

Thanks to all!
I love the ingenuity of using tape. It sounds brilliant.

I have had to resand the surface almost completely, and I will get some of the Zinsser sealer, do that, restain, and continue on. It probably won’t be perfect, but as I tell my wife:”If you wanted perfect, you hired the wrong guy!” It’s actually the skirt for a window stool. The skirt is a 1×6, and the stool is a 5/4 by 12, so we can set plants on it, and give our cat a nice place to hang out in the sun on afternoons. The stool is supported by 6 wrought iron brackets. The entire window unit is about 11 feet long.

So, just to follow up on one idea I had, mixing stain with some kind of filler isn’t a good idea?

Great Holidays to All!

-- Bill. Truly, an amateur!

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

8848 posts in 2727 days


#7 posted 11-26-2021 05:10 PM

They idea of matching the stained wood rather than the raw wood makes a lot of sense to me because I have yet to find a filler that stains the same way as the surrounding wood, even when I’ have matched the wood color pretty closely. It always looks like a spotch when I have tried and stands out like a sore thumb. Since this is really part of your finishing regimen and new to you, you should practice it on some scraps first and apply stain and finish to see how it looks before you mess up a nice piece and have to sand it back and start over (again).

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Bill1958's profile

Bill1958

5 posts in 518 days


#8 posted 01-03-2022 01:32 PM

So, here is the ALMOST final product. I have a few applications of satin gel varnish to apply. Other than that, this is done. I still have to do the same trim for three doors and another window, but this was the toughest one to get right.

-- Bill. Truly, an amateur!

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