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Table saw searching for the right 3 HP one. Yeah, changed my mind.

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Forum topic by therealSteveN posted 11-12-2021 07:23 PM 2866 views 0 times favorited 60 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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therealSteveN

9403 posts in 1916 days


11-12-2021 07:23 PM

Hi All

Recent event, a kickback after having done Dado cuts, I did that stupid oh I don’t need the guard for these 2 cuts, and somebody touched the back of the blade. All I am certain of is a loud POW, then missile flying past to the right, and my right hand getting jerked back and my push stick flying off to the side, Fatally damaged. I think struck by the kickback, but not positive, though it makes the most sense. The cut piece is done, perfectly cut, still laying flat on the tabletop. It was the “harmless” offcut that somehow crept up on the back of the blade, and got launched. Again, no splitter or RK to keep it off the blade. My bad.

I stand to the side like the shop class guy says to. I always use the “sacrificial” pusher. I was really lucky too.

So I turned off the stereo, lights, and came in. All night I was replaying it, and am convinced all I did dumb, was not having a splitter in place. So I’m getting a saw with a RK. Something that I don’t have to keep putting the splitter on and off.

OK Change this emphasis to 3 HP Cabinet saw, and a HUGE saw blade opening. What say ye. Also let me hear from a few of the recent Harvey buyers, and one get the 3HP? Laguna F3’s, Griz???

Plus after a lot of thought. If I am using a Sawstop, does it hurt it to keep the switch off, so it never destroys a blade, especially on Dado, and crosscuts? It seems I have heard far more stories of needlessly ruined blades, than I have of saved fingers.

-- Think safe, be safe


60 replies so far

View CWWoodworking's profile

CWWoodworking

2311 posts in 1521 days


#1 posted 11-12-2021 07:52 PM

One of the guys at work just got the grizzly hybrid. He has to change blades/dados all the time. Seems to have no issues. I ask him a couple times if he likes it. Said it’s pretty good, could use more power at times. Fence seems pretty chinsy.

I really like the looks of Harvey’s sliding table attachment.

If you get above 2000$, IMO you should just get a SS. It gets good reviews and an added level of safety.

View Ocelot's profile

Ocelot

3739 posts in 3980 days


#2 posted 11-12-2021 08:04 PM

I’m assume you do crank the blade all the way up before changing. :-)

-- I intended to be a woodworker, but turned into a tool and lumber collector.

View Madmark2's profile

Madmark2

3264 posts in 1930 days


#3 posted 11-12-2021 08:30 PM

Offcut? From a dado? We’re you ripping with a dado blade? If so, THAT was the first mistake! A splitter or riving knife would have had little to no effect as the dado is wider than either. Or are you saying that you didn’t replace the riving knife when you changed back to a regular blade? I run without either because they don’t support thin kerf blades.

Sounds like you had an offcut wander into the blade. Keep a brush handy to shoo away offcuts if they’re headed that way. An air nozzle works too. Don’t leave offcuts on the tool. This wasn’t a TOOL error as much as several minor items stacking up against you. If your saw vibrates enough that offcuts walk, perhaps some time balancing things might be a good idea.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

View hairy's profile

hairy

3360 posts in 4874 days


#4 posted 11-12-2021 08:30 PM

Glad you didn’t get hurt.

If you get above 2000$, IMO you should just get a SS. It gets good reviews and an added level of safety.

- CWWoodworking

What he said…

-- there's someone in my head but it's not me...

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

9403 posts in 1916 days


#5 posted 11-12-2021 10:59 PM



I m assume you do crank the blade all the way up before changing. :-)

- Ocelot

Yeah Paul. If I knew more cheats I’d use them too. :-)

I was looking at the other saw living here today, it’s a Delta Contractor, but a left tilter, and it’s insert is just 1/4” wider @ 3 3/4” wide, and it’s like night and day. Way more than I would imagine 1/4” could give. I’m thinking it’s about right tilt, over left, and anything new may be bigger clearance simply because all are lefties anymore.

-- Think safe, be safe

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

9403 posts in 1916 days


#6 posted 11-12-2021 11:09 PM



Offcut? From a dado? We re you ripping with a dado blade? If so, THAT was the first mistake! A splitter or riving knife would have had little to no effect as the dado is wider than either. Or are you saying that you didn t replace the riving knife when you changed back to a regular blade? I run without either because they don t support thin kerf blades.

Sounds like you had an offcut wander into the blade. Keep a brush handy to shoo away offcuts if they re headed that way. An air nozzle works too. Don t leave offcuts on the tool. This wasn t a TOOL error as much as several minor items stacking up against you. If your saw vibrates enough that offcuts walk, perhaps some time balancing things might be a good idea.

- Madmark2

“Recent event, a kickback after having done Dado cuts, I did that stupid oh I don’t need the guard for these 2 cuts”

I HAD BEEN doing Dados, and was done. I had 2 pieces to rip for another job, and skipped putting the guard back on.

Relax Buddy, no fouls were committed except I didn’t have in a splitter, which I would have had with the guard back on. :-)

Wondering what the point would be of using a Dado to crosscut with, now that would be messed up. Can’t imagine the cut quality would be worth a Tinkers D.

Nope went non through to through. Knowing I need to put more gear on the saw, and by not doing so, I almost crapped me pants.

Now I know your legs got shortened, but I never knew you had extra arms, you part Octopus?? Pushing stock, watching, and still swinging a broom, and blowing air all over, multi talented Mark I’ll be calling you form now on. ;-)

-- Think safe, be safe

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

9403 posts in 1916 days


#7 posted 11-12-2021 11:23 PM


Glad you didn t get hurt.

If you get above 2000$, IMO you should just get a SS. It gets good reviews and an added level of safety.

- CWWoodworking

What he said…

- hairy

Hairy, I think more luck was involved than not, but yeah, no body hits, no blade fingers, completely skipped the getting hurt part. If it happened slower I think pants crappin would be involved, but the way it went it was over and done in less than a second.

I’d have to find a good deal on a SS to jump, but I do want an RK.

-- Think safe, be safe

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

9403 posts in 1916 days


#8 posted 11-13-2021 12:00 AM



One of the guys at work just got the grizzly hybrid. He has to change blades/dados all the time. Seems to have no issues. I ask him a couple times if he likes it. Said it’s pretty good, could use more power at times. Fence seems pretty chinsy.

I really like the looks of Harvey’s sliding table attachment.

If you get above 2000$, IMO you should just get a SS. It gets good reviews and an added level of safety.

- CWWoodworking

Almost bought that saw this time last year. I was thinking of selling the Delta Contractor I have, and getting one of them for a second, and something I could run 110 and leave in the garage, for when the snow was too deep to walk back to the shop. It would have saved me a few hundred bux. Suddenly wasn’t doing it, nothing against the saw. I think, at least from looking that Harvey has a better package, albeit a few hundred more $$$$ It’s like a combo of all the best stuff Griz has, and in one line of saws, just pick the power you want. I’d just get the 3HP, but it’s a pretty big jump between the 2 and 3HP units. What can I say, I’m retired, Uncle doesn’t pay ne enough. :-)

-- Think safe, be safe

View ljislink's profile

ljislink

28 posts in 158 days


#9 posted 11-13-2021 02:25 AM

FWIW, I just bought the Grizzly G0899 for a few reasons after a lot research, riving knife & guard easy to swap out, 2 cast iron extension wings and a very nice fence, hundreds cheaper than the Harvey & 2hp cuts through 2 1/2” inch oak no problem. If your sub 2K budget I highly recommend the G0899 or the Harvey which is same saw different clothes.
I posted up review of the Grizz in”reviews table saw”

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

8869 posts in 2729 days


#10 posted 11-13-2021 01:46 PM

The only time you would probably wish you had splurged for a 3HP is when resawing or making long rip cuts in thick hardwood. Even my 1.5 HP contractor can do those. It just takes a more patience. If I was using the saw every day and all day like that, I would definitely want more HP but for the typical hobbiest, 2 HP will suffice.

Personally, if and when I finally decide to upgrade I would put the extra dough for a Saw Stop. As you know it only takes a moment for a small mistake to become an accident and the extra grand or so above the Harvey is a small price to pay to avoid a trip to the emergency room or lost digit or worse that could end or at least seriously handicap future woodworking. Besides, from what I have seen and heard, the SS quality is second to none.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View kajunframer's profile

kajunframer

22 posts in 243 days


#11 posted 11-13-2021 02:28 PM

Grizzly, Jet, ,Powermatic, and Saw stop are all the same machine (except for a few minor features, and the Sawstop’s tech.).
Harvey is a good saw, and they offer great customer service.
Always get as much HP as you can afford.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

7362 posts in 3835 days


#12 posted 11-13-2021 02:51 PM

I’ll only chime in on the HP part…though I’m certainly glad you didn’t get anything besides your pride injured. I used a 2 HP for quite a few years before I upsized to 3 HP. I agree that that the 3 HP is nice, but relly…it’s only cuts wood faster when it’s heavy cutting. Then you have to slow down the feed rate. But with most 4/4 stuff, I don’t remember much difference bewteen the two. The saw I have now is 5 HP, and that’s probably the dumbest thing I’ve done with tools over the years. The 5 HP might be nice for commercial shops that run their saw 4+ hours a day, but to a hobbyist it just means the headache of a 30 amp circuit. So I’m one of the only folks to say I wish my saw had less power.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View controlfreak's profile (online now)

controlfreak

3226 posts in 943 days


#13 posted 11-13-2021 03:37 PM

I vote sawstop only because the extra $$$ pales in comparison to cost of reattaching or removing what is beyond saving. Let this also be a reminder to those seeing retirement on the horizon, buy your forever saw before you retire. Five years till 65 but I think 70 is a more likely scenario to max out SS and postpone drawing down savings. Another five years to add to it won’t hurt either.

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

9403 posts in 1916 days


#14 posted 11-13-2021 05:59 PM

Fred, I didn’t know you had gone “Beast Mode” on the TS front, when did you do that?

I’ve still got the Delta 36-979 which is a nice Contractor saw with a 1 1/2 HP motor, so I’m aware that sawing slow, can get it done. I got that so I had a saw prior to the shop build, and having ready 220, then I immediately wanted a 3HP saw again. It also doesn’t have a RK, so I plan to sell it off as well. The more I think about it I’ll probably stay in the 3 HP saw market. I’m not sure about it, but spoiled comes to mind. :-)

Ok a SS is part of the consideration here, probably won’t buy, but thinking about it.

-- Think safe, be safe

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therealSteveN

9403 posts in 1916 days


#15 posted 11-13-2021 06:25 PM

What width is the Sawstops blade insert? I see one at Infinity like a Betterly that is an aluminum frame, with a phenolic insert. Will the Aluminum set off the weenie whacker? or is it far enough away?

Also couldn’t find dimensions, they just say is for Saw Stop, Seems everyone else lists the replacements by dimensions. Guessing Gass didn’t want anyone making their own.

-- Think safe, be safe

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