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Forum topic by bradleyheathhays posted 10-30-2021 06:54 AM 613 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bradleyheathhays

41 posts in 364 days


10-30-2021 06:54 AM

Hey fellas I’m at the point where I need to finish out some of my turning tools and figured I should stop by before making the investment. I’ve got a Jet 1221 VS and am looking for both a bowl coring system and Longworth chuck appropriate for my lathe. Far as the coring system goes I’m almost settled on the One Way 12” mini system. If there’s a better system out there for a beginner like myself please mention it, but I’m fairly sure this should be the best option for ease of use. I see they offer replacement cutter heads. If the kit doesn’t come with a carbide cutter should I go ahead and order that as well?

As for the Longworth chuck, I already have a Nova G3 chuck and wondering what’s the least expensive but capable option I should look at for a Longworth that’s compatible with my Nova G3? Also, not being that studied up on these kind of chucks, since my lathe swing is 12” I assume any Longworth described as 12” is appropriate for my Jet.

Last tool question…need advice on a good sanding system, drill, pads and disks. I get emails from the Woodturners Wonders and they’re advertising two of their systems. One angle drill driven and the other friction driven. I’m guessing the drill is the better option? Only issue I have with that kit is Reed Gray talks about how the softer backed pads don’t do well with the lower grits, so I guess I’ll have to get more parts than this kit offers. Are the Woodturners Wonders kits worth looking into or are there better options out there?

https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/sanding-bundle-sale

And last, I have absolutely lucked out and found 10 good sized Walnut trees that a guy needs cut down, so if it turns out I can get this very labor intensive job done I’ll have wood for a good long time to come. Brings me to the question, what’s the best way / procedures / time of year to fell a tree with the idea of keeping it’s bark on through storage / drying and the turning process? Believe I’ve seen winter is the best time to fell but is say November weather in Kentucky good enough or should I wait more toward late Dec or Jan?

-- 'If the end of the world ever comes move to Kentucky, because everything there happens twenty years later.' ~ Mark Twain


7 replies so far

View KYtoolsmith's profile

KYtoolsmith

245 posts in 1202 days


#1 posted 10-30-2021 12:06 PM

As to your late tooling questions, I’m not the one to give opinions as I’ve only been turning for a few years. But walnut tree cutting here in Kentucky is something I’m very familiar with. Cutting in late fall or early winter is best, I cut in October-November. This is because the sap is down and that shortens the drying time. Large and thick pieces for turning stock take a long time to dry. Be sure and seal cut ends as soon as a tree is felled. I use Anchor Seal… If the trees are of any size, (14” diameter or greater) you may need a band saw mill to cut the logs into dryable lumber. Once cut, the lumber needs to be stacked on a solid level rack well off the ground with 3/4 slats of wood 18” apart between layers of lumber to allow air flow. The stack must have a roof of some sort to protect from rain and sun. Cutting bowl blanks has a similar sealing and drying issue.
Regards, The Kentucky Toolsmith!

-- "Good enough" is just another way of saying "it could be better"...

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2945 posts in 3331 days


#2 posted 10-30-2021 12:23 PM

The Oneway coring system is top notch and overkill for a 12” swing. I have the Woodcut Bowlsaver 2 blade system that will core a ~11” OD, for several 100 less. If you think a larger lathe is in your future the Oneway might be worth it. Woodcut is developing a new 3 blade system but isnt released yet (they have a 3 blade out there but hard to find).

I have a jumbo jaw chuck (similar to a longworth) when I used when I thought it was required for bowl bottom finishing. It caked with dust. I use a diy jam chuck in the bowl and use the TS for friction, cut/sand the little button that is left in the center.

Sanding – I use a Nieko 55 deg close qutrs drill (amazon) powered thru a router speed control (HF) to hold constant low speed. Vince’s Woodnwoners for 2” pads and innerface pads, flat and radiused, different foam hardness, and use his 2-3/8” sanding discs.

Not positive when the best to fell trees is, but I think it is winter, after leaves have turned. Keep logs as long as you can, store off the ground and covered if possible, seal ends (I use TB II wood glue). Cut blanks off logs as needed. I may get a lot of various blanks when cutting 1 section of log.

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

1809 posts in 3071 days


#3 posted 10-30-2021 02:42 PM

Brad, go to my website and look at the Tail Stock Steady. I invented it in 2012, and lost only 3 pieces since. They were lost during the first week after first use. It’s as simple to install as a live center and holds as well as a live center. All you need to use at the headstock is what I call Rim Chucks which are just a Jamb Chuck with a rim fitting the rim of the piece you are removing the tenon from. Also, the TSS in not size restricted as you can turn any diameter bowl and be able to remove the tenon without issue. When removing the tenon, your piece will still be BETWEEN centers, making this operation safer than using the other devices on the market.

My website is www.woodturnerstools.com. If you have any questions for me, leave a message there with a phone number or email address, and I will get back to you. ............... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

View bigJohninvegas's profile

bigJohninvegas

1141 posts in 2803 days


#4 posted 10-30-2021 07:34 PM

KYtoolsmith sounds like he’s got the walnut trees handled. Only add I have is to processing the blanks.
All sorts of products to seal end grain. And it MUST be sealed right away. You will notice store bought blanks tend to always use wax. So when going to process it into blanks. Don’t get ahead of yourself. Leave the logs as long as you can handle, and end grain sealed until you can complete that whole process for each log.
I have seen whole trees cut into blanks, and many of the blanks are full of cracks/checks before the last cut was made.
For sanding systems, I pretty much use the Woodturnerswonders.com disks. primarily 2”, but sometimes 3”.
For a sander, I use a harbor freight cheapo angle drill. It has been working fine for me for several years now.
I’m using this $20 cheapo here, never expected it to last as long as it has. But for the price, I figured I could buy 3 at the price most sell for.

https://www.harborfreight.com/32-amp-38-in-variable-speed-close-quarters-drill-63119.html

This next one was not offered when I bought the one I am using. But if and when it finally fails I’ll probably give this one a go. Looks like the drills most turning stores offer, and still cheaper.
https://www.harborfreight.com/35-amp-38-in-variable-speed-close-quarters-drill-57148.html

I don’t use a longworth chuck. So no opinion on brands there. I have a cole jaws style for my chuck, and a vacuum chuck.
But I buy a lot of supplies from Craft Supplies USA. They have never done be wrong.
This one says it fits #2 dovetail jaws.

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/103/4604/rmwoodco-Modern-Longworth-Chuck?term=longworth+chuck&term=longworth%20chuck

Back to sanding, The options have changed since I first bought from Ken. I nay have bought his package with the sander included if it had been offered back then. But what I did get was something similar to this. But as a bundle.

https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/premium-packs/products/super-16-pack-2-and-3-purple-sanding-discs-25-each-grit
https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/ultimate-sanding-system/products/ultimate-2-and-3-inch-sanding-kit

But if you go with the kit you have linked above, grab a handful of these pads at the same time. They tear easy, not as much after you get used to using them. and they are soft, gets around the curve in the bottom of a bowl real good.
https://woodturnerswonders.com/collections/sanding-accessories/products/2-inch-itermittent-velcro-pad

-- John

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VDwoodwork

4 posts in 91 days


#5 posted 11-06-2021 01:35 AM

Ill help out on the last question. Best time for cutting is when the trees go dormant if you can. Leave the logs in as large a section as you can move. Until you are ready to use it that is. This gives you flexibility on being able to cut out structural cracks. I personally have the most trouble with walnut over time. Walnut, for me, tends to develop cracks that go all the way through, one side to the other. Most other woods will crack on the end and only travel a few inches. Walnut also seems to like to hold onto water more than other species too. For example, roughed bowls generally take about a year to air dry, and walnut usually takes about 16 months for me.

Either way seal the ends with anchorseal and keep it out of direct sun as much as you can. Trying to slow the rate of evaporation. Thats the main reason for cutting in the winter. Refer to my post for other wood gathering ideas.

https://vanduynwoodwork.com/2019/08/26/wood-turning-blanks/

good luck with the walnut, thats alot of wood to gather. Hope you don’t burn yourself out on this one. Shot me an email if there is anything else I can help answer.

-- Jason Van Duyn - Raleigh, NC - www.vanduynwoodwork.com

View bradleyheathhays's profile

bradleyheathhays

41 posts in 364 days


#6 posted 11-06-2021 11:31 AM

Kytoolsmith thanks for your tree felling and wood preserving advice. Looks like I better delay cutting all these Walnut trees down until I can manage processing and producing something with them. I hope they’ll still be there as I can get to them. Maybe I can get some other local turners in with me to take advantage of them now then have the favor returned later.

OSU55…on the chuck advice. I was recently told about frugal vacuum cuck.com and with prices that low that’s probably the route I’ll take. Before finding them I thought vac chucks were in the $1000+ range. Inistead of spending $100 on a Longworth or Cole chuck, where you still risk getting a bowl in the face, why not spend a couple hundred more and have a legit vacuum chuck? I’ll have to take a couple more deep swallows before I shell out the money but getting a vac chuck a this price seems like the best option to me.

On sanding, I’ve had that same Neiko 55 angle drill suggested elsewhere as well. Only issue I saw with it was that it had no separate speed dial and that rotation speed was controlled by feathering the switch. I probably need some more education on drill speed vs. lathe speed when sanding. I thought I had gotten info that drill should be on high and lathe should be down low. But your use of a speed controller on the drill makes me question what I’ve been told. I’m all ears for more drill and lathe speed advice.

Nubsnstubs I have come close to turning myself into your namesake. Hard but good lesson learned I must say. Could have walked into the ER with my thumb in a bag, instead I just got some stitches. Thanks again for your advice and showing me your invention. I can’t see me going too far into bowl turning without getting one of those gems.

BigJohninvegas yeah that’s a great price for that little drill. Small and lightweight are big on my value scale. Far as I can tell that Bauer brand is decent quality. I’ll have to look up some specs on that one and keep it in mind. That second Bauer you mentioned was one I had my eye on. It’s only .3 lbs heavier and somewhat more amps. Not sure about dimension comparison though. Thanks for the chuck info. Like before I’ll probably talk myself into going ahead with the vac chuck and never looking back. Relatively cheap price for a better hold and peace of mind. And on the further sanding advice…yes those disc packages are definitely the way to go. Had those inter pads suggested elsewhere and they look like a good idea as well.

Thanks VDwoodwork on the tree felling advice. You know I was all gung ho when I first found those Walnuts but so glad I’ve gotten the advice to slow down on processing them. Your advice on not burning myself is right on. When I first began looking for local wood I was searching everyday on facebook, craigslist and wherever and going for whatever came up. But now that I’ve been watching the local market for a while I can see there’s good wood out there and can slow down acquisition. I’ve got a healthy stock of big diameter Cherry and Maple right now with some smaller Walnut. Anchorsealed all of it soon as I got a hold of it. Haven’t had it too long so I haven’t learned the lesson of how quickly it goes bad, through cracking or insects. I’m sure I’ll learn that lesson here soon though. Sorry to hear how Walnut tends to crack all the way through though. Just another lesson I’ll have to factor in I guess.

Thanks for your vanduynwoodwork link too. Looks like I’ve got a lot of good reading ahead of me!

-- 'If the end of the world ever comes move to Kentucky, because everything there happens twenty years later.' ~ Mark Twain

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2945 posts in 3331 days


#7 posted 11-06-2021 02:24 PM

Sanding speed – SLOW. Drill speed maybe 2-300 rpm, never checked it. Thats with 2” pad and 2-3/8” discs. The drill is plugged into a router speed control (from harbor freight) and a velcro cord strap around the drill and trigger to hold the trigger down, let the speed control set a constant speed. Heat is the enemy when sanding – Ellsworth says “cool sanding”.

For 2 turn items that are round, usually 100 rpm lathe rpm for medium ~ 5” bowl and up, up to 750 rpm for finials, done w/o drill. I do mainly 1 turn bowls/hf’s, which are out of round. Mount in chuck to hold, but rotate by hand. Drill speed low, let the grit do the work.

You are at risk of getting a bowl in the face using any of the methods, none are 100% safe. The TS can keep a piece trapped. Vac chucks cant always work do to item shape, voids, porosity. They are not a holy grail. Shellac can seal porosity. I recommend save your $ and learn to use the TS but to each his own. I use a 1/2” spindle gouge and cut the nub down to a cone, small end on the wood, ~1/4”, stick the end of the gouge in, flute 180 away from wood, rotate slightly ccw, turn lathe off after it cut a little, then turn piece by hand to failure. Can cut the nub with a flexible pull saw.

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