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Scrapper Plane, my first

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Forum topic by Coop67 posted 10-27-2021 06:19 PM 324 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Coop67

9 posts in 312 days


10-27-2021 06:19 PM

Topic tags/keywords: scrapper plane


I wanted a scraper plane to set up my Japanese planes and decided to build one. This was my first attempt at building a plane from a single block of wood. It was a lot of work and the grain pattern on the walnut was a poor choice. I got too much tear-out. Here are some observations.

The blade vibrates and sometimes leaves a washboard effect.
It performs better scrapping into the blade wedge than into the flat side.
It requires a real sharp blade. ( I didn’t put a burr on the blade because I want to use it on another proto plane.)
It will be a very good scrapper if I get the vibration out of it and then shorten a dedicated blade.

On the next try, I will build as Mads did using the sandwich technique for less work and more precision. Learning the details of how a tool works by making one and the sense of accomplishment is really worth the effort.

Jim C


8 replies so far

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OSU55

2893 posts in 3272 days


#1 posted 10-27-2021 09:09 PM

Probably need to bed the iron to the wedge and body. I got good improvements with some oriental wood planes I had purchased by bedding them.

Using candle smoke on the iron, seat it in the body, which will show amount of contact. Keep floating the body and wedge till you get ~75% contact.

How are you setting edge depth? Should be very small, just whisper shavings. Piece of paper on glass under the end of the plane, after the wedge is set. Tap the nose of the plane downward with a mallet to reduce iron set.

Cant tell the iron angle but it needs to be leaning forward ~5-10 deg. Once you get the iron bedded it needs a burr, and you will have to experiment with the burr angle. My purchased scraper plane has iron angle adjustability so I can tune it in. My cabinet scraper is not adjustable and is burr angle dependent.

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SMP

4951 posts in 1188 days


#2 posted 10-27-2021 09:15 PM



Probably need to bed the iron to the wedge and body. I got good improvements with some oriental wood planes I had purchased by bedding them.

Using candle smoke on the iron, seat it in the body, which will show amount of contact. Keep floating the body and wedge till you get ~75% contact.

How are you setting edge depth? Should be very small, just whisper shavings. Piece of paper on glass under the end of the plane, after the wedge is set. Tap the nose of the plane downward with a mallet to reduce iron set.

Cant tell the iron angle but it needs to be leaning forward ~5-10 deg. Once you get the iron bedded it needs a burr, and you will have to experiment with the burr angle. My purchased scraper plane has iron angle adjustability so I can tune it in. My cabinet scraper is not adjustable and is burr angle dependent.

- OSU55

When I was at a Lie Nielsen event (pre Covid) one of the employees did some demos of their various scraper planes. I asked him which one he recommended and he said the fixed one. When I asked why not the adjustable he said because you will have to fettle with it for hours to find the right angle and then you would just leave it there, so may as well get the fixed angle to begin with.

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OSU55

2893 posts in 3272 days


#3 posted 10-28-2021 12:15 PM

When I was at a Lie Nielsen event (pre Covid) one of the employees did some demos of their various scraper planes. I asked him which one he recommended and he said the fixed one. When I asked why not the adjustable he said because you will have to fettle with it for hours to find the right angle and then you would just leave it there, so may as well get the fixed angle to begin with.

- SMP

Not an informed/experienced employee. I guess LN makes adjustable large and small scraper planes just because? Logic will tell you adjustable is better, but you couldnt make one at home. Nothing wrong with making a fixed one. Having used both adjustable is better.

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HokieKen

19822 posts in 2421 days


#4 posted 10-28-2021 02:14 PM

I have to agree, I very much like an adjustable scraper like a #12 better than one like a #80. I use a wide range of angles depending on the task at hand.

For the OP, what angle is your blade bedded at? Are you saying it performs better used right-to-left in the picture you posted? Unless it’s an optical illusion, your blade leans that direction and that’s probably the only direction you will be able to use it in. Especially once you have a burr turned on it. That’s a really nice looking plane, congrats :-)

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

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Coop67

9 posts in 312 days


#5 posted 10-28-2021 04:01 PM

Kenny, I have both a #12 and #80 that work well at the angle setting at which I acquired them so I have not adjusted either.

My scraper is made at 90 degrees. Bedding it as OSU55 suggested improved it considerably when set to a very fine cut, scrape. I have started work on a Japanese style smother using the same blade. If it is a keeper, I will buy a blade for the scraper, burr it and cut it to a shorter length. I will post pictures of the smother when complete.

I have come to appreciate and enjoy the very fine setting a tap on Japanese plains produces and I find myself going back to Odate’s book to refine my planning and sawing skills.

Thanks each of you for the informative and useful comments.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

19822 posts in 2421 days


#6 posted 10-28-2021 04:04 PM

Very nice Coop :-) Out of curiousity, how wide is that plane?

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

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Coop67

9 posts in 312 days


#7 posted 10-28-2021 04:07 PM

The blade is 2 1/8 inches. It is from Lee Valley and a generic wood plane blade.

View SMP's profile

SMP

4951 posts in 1188 days


#8 posted 10-28-2021 05:01 PM



Kenny, I have both a #12 and #80 that work well at the angle setting at which I acquired them so I have not adjusted either.

My scraper is made at 90 degrees. Bedding it as OSU55 suggested improved it considerably when set to a very fine cut, scrape. I have started work on a Japanese style smother using the same blade. If it is a keeper, I will buy a blade for the scraper, burr it and cut it to a shorter length. I will post pictures of the smother when complete.

I have come to appreciate and enjoy the very fine setting a tap on Japanese plains produces and I find myself going back to Odate s book to refine my planning and sawing skills.

Thanks each of you for the informative and useful comments.

- Coop67

I know the “traditional” way was a scraper plane or card scraper, but I watched a video by JSK-koubou and he uses a block of sandpaper. I highly suggest watching this, and check his shavings
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16iPvVJObvc&vl=en

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