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planer snipe (DW735)

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Forum topic by jamsomito posted 10-25-2021 01:16 PM 434 views 1 time favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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jamsomito

692 posts in 1713 days


10-25-2021 01:16 PM

Yes, I know… age old problem. But this stinks. I’m going to have to remake these two pieces.

Most of my boards have minimal snipe, particularly longer ones. I can usually sand it out or hide it on the backside of a piece or something. I guess I can lift up on entry/exit for longer pieces; not so for shorter ones. But these I put through alongside long ones, or one butting right up to the other. It looks like the whole planer head is tilting when adding it alongside a longer piece. Is there something wrong with my planer? Wasn’t expecting it to this degree.


16 replies so far

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Knockonit

1019 posts in 1489 days


#1 posted 10-25-2021 01:22 PM

wowza, thats ugly, i’d say possible somethings out of alignment, outfeed table bent some or …...............

-- Living the dream

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KYtoolsmith

237 posts in 1147 days


#2 posted 10-25-2021 01:33 PM

On my Dewalt 733, the infeed and outfeed table height and level can be adjusted with stop bolts under the corners near the hinge. This can eliminate most snipe. I try to thickness plane the entire board before cutting parts to length or width to place the snipe on one end of the board so my parts are unaffected by snipe…
Regards, The Kentucky Toolsmith!

-- "Good enough" is just another way of saying "it could be better"...

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EarlS

4815 posts in 3634 days


#3 posted 10-25-2021 01:44 PM

I do the same thing when I have short pieces that need to be planed. I’ve also run short pieces thru by loading them in end-to-end which can be challenging since you have to grab the planed piece so it doesn’t hit the floor while keeping the incoming pieces butted up to the one in front of them. The pieces might have a bit of snipe, but nothing as deep or as uneven as your pictures. Nice looking QSWO!!!

However, I haven’t had snipe problems like this. I don’t have an answer other than to suggest taking a look on youtube to see how someone else dealt with cutter head alignment problems.

-- Earl "I'm a pessamist - generally that increases the chance that things will turn out better than expected"

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wichman3

114 posts in 1908 days


#4 posted 10-25-2021 01:45 PM

Check your blades for sharpness. I was recently planing some walnut and had horrible snipe, after dialing in the feed tables I had no snipe. Changed the blades and cleaned the chip breakers, no other adjustments, and viola, no snipe.

I tested the sharpness against my thumb (very carefully) and could barely tell the difference, but night and day while planing.

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jamsomito

692 posts in 1713 days


#5 posted 10-25-2021 02:01 PM



I try to thickness plane the entire board before cutting parts to length or width to place the snipe on one end of the board so my parts are unaffected by snipe…

- KYtoolsmith

Yes, I try to do that too, but these two particular pieces were too wide for me to resaw on my bandsaw or table saw, so I had to take it as far as I could on the table saw, then resaw the rest by hand. It’s a huge pain, so instead of doing that for the whole board I crosscut this chunk off, did the rest entirely on the bandsaw, and was left with a few long pieces and then these shorties to send through the planer. I knew it was a risk, and I guess now I’m paying the price for trying to save some material (instead of allowing a few inches on either end to cut off later.

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sras

6433 posts in 4416 days


#6 posted 10-25-2021 02:07 PM

I feed a sacrificial piece on one or both sides of my piece. The sacrificial piece(s) are 6+ inches longer than my work piece. If there is going to be any snipe it will show up on the sacrificial pieces and not on the workpiece.

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

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bugradx2

353 posts in 1306 days


#7 posted 10-25-2021 02:10 PM

I would say something has been knocked around with your planer, one of the tables or the cutter head. I use a plywood sled when I run stuff through mine and then I can put a sacrificial piece in front or behind my actual workpiece if needed.

-- The only thing not measured in my shop is time

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jamsomito

692 posts in 1713 days


#8 posted 10-25-2021 02:21 PM



I feed a sacrificial piece on one or both sides of my piece. The sacrificial piece(s) are 6+ inches longer than my work piece. If there is going to be any snipe it will show up on the sacrificial pieces and not on the workpiece.

- sras

In retrospect, adding some runners down both sides would have worked here. I put these in alongside the longer pieces and it looks like the cutter head is tipping… really odd.

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controlfreak

3063 posts in 888 days


#9 posted 10-25-2021 02:53 PM

Snipe is snipe and all of the work arounds above can help but that looks very severe to me. I think you are going to need some sort of remedy to get it dialed back into adjustment before getting to the sacrificial boards or longer cut offs. How to do that I probably won’t be much help. I would get a good gauge to quantify what you are getting now on each side of the bed and front to back. I would also use calipers to check the thickness side to side too. After getting all that try a new set of blades and inspect bearing and such while in there. Recheck and if still bad start checking tables etc. Unfortunately I see a lot of internet searches and scrap wood in your future.

View vjc's profile

vjc

31 posts in 1673 days


#10 posted 10-25-2021 03:59 PM

With short pieces, I’ve found that holding them down, tight to the infeed table as lond as you can, and then holding them down tight to the out feed table as soon as it comes out and until it is all the way through eliminates most snipe. Also, it is importand that the pieces are surface jointed. Any rocking makes it worse.

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shipwright

8760 posts in 4084 days


#11 posted 10-25-2021 05:00 PM

Snipe is caused by the fact that the table rollers are higher than the infeed / out feed tables. When the tail end if the piece gets past the infeed rollers it can tip up a little because it “teeter-totters” on the out feed table roller. The reverse explains the less common front end snipe.
Sacrificial pieces in front, behind or beside your piece won’t change this.
If you had no table rollers you would have no snipe, however you wouldn’t be able to get the piece to move through the planer. The higher the table rollers, the worse the snipe will be.

Simple problem, ….. not so simple to resolve.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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bladedust

239 posts in 3553 days


#12 posted 10-25-2021 05:19 PM

I have the same planer and had the same problem. Once I adjusted the infeed and outfeed extension with a straight edge to make everything level, 90% of the snipe disappeared. I hope this helps.

-- ok, is it cut once measure twice, cut twice measure once???? I know....I'll just keep cutting until it's long enough.

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controlfreak

3063 posts in 888 days


#13 posted 10-25-2021 05:28 PM

Did the OP ever tell us what model planner he has? Sorry, it was in the title.

I must have gotten lucky, my DW735 has almost no snipe and I never adjusted anything.

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Rich

7569 posts in 1876 days


#14 posted 10-25-2021 05:35 PM


I must have gotten lucky, my DW735 has almost no snipe and I never adjusted anything.

- controlfreak

Mine’s random and never bad enough to worry about. I think the OP hit it on the head when he said running two boards side-by-side through it might be the problem. It’s hard to tell for sure from the photos, but on a couple of the boards it even looks like the snipe is deeper on one side than the other.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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hairy

3348 posts in 4819 days


#15 posted 10-25-2021 06:24 PM

I’ve thought about making one of these jigs. Maybe someday…

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KOzRB30gxpE

-- there's someone in my head but it's not me...

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