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Forum topic by groland posted 10-24-2021 08:24 PM 338 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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groland

237 posts in 4698 days


10-24-2021 08:24 PM

Topic tags/keywords: stock preparation

I write to ask what people do in this stage of stock preparation. I am making a table and and preparing the four aprons that will be fastened to the legs to hold the top in place.

So I ran the timbers through the jointer until I had a good face side. Then I jointed a square edge next to that face side. I ran the boards through the planer to make the opposite face parallel to the jointed one and ripped the boards to width on the table saw. All pretty standard stuff. So far, so good.

Next, I worked on the face side with hand planes removing the snipe and making certain the face was slightly hollow and without wind. Then I planed the reference edge flat and square to the reference face.

Now—here’s the concern—what do I do with the other face and edge? Do I try to plane out snipe and make certain there is no wind or leave it alone? I tried dressing the non-reference face to remove snipe and wind, but I was less skilled than I ought to have been, and by the time I got that done to my satisfaction, the board was about 1/16” thinner than the other three, so I’m now going to run them all through the planer again to even their thicknesses.

What do you do in this situation?

Thanks


4 replies so far

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Robert

4792 posts in 2767 days


#1 posted 10-24-2021 09:35 PM

Have you made more work than necessary? Maybe.

I don’t usually do the hand plane steps unless there’s a twist the board should be flat after the first steps you did.

If there is a twist, I give it a go to a point and discard the board. I say that because you can remove the twist all hunky dory & good – not so the next day.

My planer doesn’t snipe [gloat], but the solution for that is make at least one board longer & be sure you feed them right in line.

Final note – yes, I use them but those winding sticks can wind you up in a mess. If the twist isn’t bad in a long board under 1” thick I don’t even check it. For something like an apron I can “untwist” any minor during assembly.

If I know a board is twisted, during rough cutting I will either toss it or use if can be for shorter parts.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View jonah's profile

jonah

2258 posts in 4585 days


#2 posted 10-25-2021 12:56 AM

If your planer has a snipe problem, the easiest way to handle it is to leave boards a few inches long and cut off the excess after planing.

What you describe sounds like an awful lot of unnecessary work.

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LesB

3143 posts in 4730 days


#3 posted 10-25-2021 04:58 PM

Another way to deal with snipe is to use a piece of “scrap” wood that is longer and run it through the planer along with the good piece but make sure it is 3 or so inches longer. The longer scrap will stop the spring action of the planers rollers as the good piece clears the cutter. The scrap will probably have the snipe when it clears.

-- Les B, Oregon

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SMP

4966 posts in 1192 days


#4 posted 10-25-2021 06:08 PM

Depends on what I am making and if the joinery will be hand tooled or machined. For machining you kind of need all the wood perfect. For hand joinery I just worry about the “show side” and fettle the joinery to look good. Usually this means a minute or two with a sharp chisel.

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