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New Sawstop CNS, which Saw blade (recommendations)

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Forum topic by MDFDoom posted 10-21-2021 09:43 PM 405 views 1 time favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MDFDoom

13 posts in 48 days


10-21-2021 09:43 PM

Topic tags/keywords: sawstop contractor blade

Hi everyone,

So I just sold my R4520 table saw and pulled the trigger on a CNS 175 (contractor). Picking it up tomorrow! Super excited to get building with it.

I’m curious if anyone can recommend some blades. The 2 I have been eyeing are below. These are available to me either via Amazon or locally in Halifax, NS, Can, and seem to come up as good quality blades.

Forrest WW2 40T Full kerf: ~$180, the thin kerf is not available it seems
Will the full kerf be ok on a 1.75HP saw?

Freud P410T (thin kerf): ~$70, I might need a thinner RK from sawstop as a separate purchase?

Not sure if there some others I should look at? Ideally a combo blade would be ideal but I’d be open to ripping and x-cutting ones individually too.

Appreciate the insights.


17 replies so far

View dbw's profile

dbw

635 posts in 2919 days


#1 posted 10-21-2021 10:08 PM

I had a WW2 40T on my Jet contractor saw for 20 years. I had it re-sharpened several times. I loved it. I believe it is a combo blade. I sold the saw and blade and I replaced them with a SS 175PCS and a Freud 50T full kerf combo blade. IMHO I believe the WW2 is a (bit) better blade but since I got a REALLY good deal (free) on the Freud I’ll live with it. I do not know how good the SS blade is. It is sitting in a drawer as a back-up.

I believe you can use the same RK on thin kerf blades but don’t quote me on this. Call SS tech support. Their tech support is excellent.

I believe you will like the SS.

-- Woodworking is like a vicious cycle. The more tools you buy the more you find to buy.

View jonah's profile

jonah

2255 posts in 4581 days


#2 posted 10-22-2021 12:27 AM

With a relatively underpowered 1.75hp motor, I’d recommend a thin kerf blade. The Freud one is a good option. Forrest also makes thin kerf blades as well, as does CMT, Infinity, and Tenryu. I’d use a good thin kerf blade from one of those five companies. If you’re having trouble finding the thin kerf WW2, try one of the other companies (or a different source). Woodcraft and Rockler both carry Forrest blades.

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

2299 posts in 2931 days


#3 posted 10-22-2021 01:04 AM

I would stay away from multi-purpose “magic” blades. Been there, done that.
Get a proper thin kerf 24 tooth rip and a proper 60 or so thin crosscut. It really does not take much time to change blades. But if you only cut thin stock and plywood, then maybe the all-in-one would work. Just don’t expect it to rip a 3 inch Oak leg.

I use mostly full kerf on my 3 HP and favor Amana and CMT. Freud, Infinity, Teneru, Forest, Ridge Carbide all respectable. But heck, a Diablo does a darn decent job and the rip is so cheap, they are disposable. Several have mentioned the blades from Woodcraft. Momba is the “Diablo” equivalent for Amana. I don’t think the others make a consumer market blade.

You do need to be sure on the riving knife. My Rigid splitter was thin enough, but my Harvey cabinet I had to buy the thin kerf. One of the things I don’t understand is blade guards on cabinet saws are full kerf only and they don’t offer a thin kerf. Don’t know on your contractor.

View MDFDoom's profile

MDFDoom

13 posts in 48 days


#4 posted 10-22-2021 01:25 AM

Anyone know if the 2.0mm RK would work in the CNS saw? I just want to be sure since shipping is like double the cost of the knife :/

View rcs47's profile

rcs47

230 posts in 4411 days


#5 posted 10-22-2021 02:08 AM

My CNS came with the SawStop full kerf blade (a good blade). When I wanted to go to a thin kerf blade, I called them (they have great customer service). They warned me not to use a cheap thin kerf blade that might fold if the brake fires. I run both Frued and Forrest blades.

If you have any questions about a blade, call SawStop.

Enjoy the new saw!

-- Doug - As my Dad taught me, you're not a cabinet maker until you can hide your mistakes.

View MDFDoom's profile

MDFDoom

13 posts in 48 days


#6 posted 10-22-2021 02:15 AM



My CNS came with the SawStop full kerf blade (a good blade). When I wanted to go to a thin kerf blade, I called them (they have great customer service). They warned me not to use a cheap thin kerf blade that might fold if the brake fires. I run both Frued and Forrest blades.

If you have any questions about a blade, call SawStop.

Enjoy the new saw!

- rcs47

Thanks rcs47. Would you happen to know the exact models you use for the Freud and Forrest?

View AlanWS's profile

AlanWS

177 posts in 4840 days


#7 posted 10-22-2021 02:20 AM


Anyone know if the 2.0mm RK would work in the CNS saw? I just want to be sure since shipping is like double the cost of the knife :/

My CNS came with that 2.0 mm riving knife, as well as one with a blade guard. I’m not sure they still do, since mine was a pre-release model, but it certainly fits.

Many years later when the dust collecting guards were released, I bought one of those and found it to be much thicker than my other two. It’s possible to use with thin kerf blades, but the riving knife alignment must be absolutely perfect to do so.

If you think you need a 2.0mm RK for thin kerf blades, make sure you read this site:
https://www.trentdavis.net/wp/2019/10/23/thin-kerf-blades-and-riving-knives/

-- Alan in Wisconsin

View AlanWS's profile

AlanWS

177 posts in 4840 days


#8 posted 10-22-2021 02:32 AM

The saw works fine with either thin or full kerf blades, and I use a variety that are often thin kerf. A Freud fusion works well in both kerfs.

The one thing I’d strongly recommend is to get a real rip blade. Ripping with a 40 tooth combo blade requires power, but using a 24 tooth rip blade feels like doubling the HP, more important than full vs thin kerf.

-- Alan in Wisconsin

View MDFDoom's profile

MDFDoom

13 posts in 48 days


#9 posted 10-22-2021 02:32 AM

Thanks Alan, appreciate that. I did read through the site. Maybe I’m fixated too much on the P410T blade in particular.it has iffy dimessions. There were these other 2 freud blades which Iook interesting and would cost less then the WW2.

LU87R010 (Thin Kerf Rip Blade) and LU79R010 (Thin Kerf Ultimate Plywood & Melamine Blade)
these 2 might be more apt for the specific jobs.

View dbw's profile

dbw

635 posts in 2919 days


#10 posted 10-22-2021 11:37 AM



With a relatively underpowered 1.75hp motor, I d recommend a thin kerf blade. The Freud one is a good option. Forrest also makes thin kerf blades as well, as does CMT, Infinity, and Tenryu. I d use a good thin kerf blade from one of those five companies. If you re having trouble finding the thin kerf WW2, try one of the other companies (or a different source). Woodcraft and Rockler both carry Forrest blades.

- jonah


I’ve had zero issues with power using a full kerf blade.

-- Woodworking is like a vicious cycle. The more tools you buy the more you find to buy.

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

2299 posts in 2931 days


#11 posted 10-22-2021 12:04 PM



My CNS came with the SawStop full kerf blade (a good blade). When I wanted to go to a thin kerf blade, I called them (they have great customer service). They warned me not to use a cheap thin kerf blade that might fold if the brake fires. I run both Frued and Forrest blades.

If you have any questions about a blade, call SawStop.

Enjoy the new saw!

- rcs47

A point I had not considered! Well, sounds like full kerf it is. Another reason to use the right blade for the job, not a combo. Crosscut not that big a deal, but rip is. I guess if you only did thin stock and plywood, then a combo world be OK. Forrest or Ridge.

When I had my contractor saw ( Ridgid) power was fine until I went to cut the taper on some 3 inch oak table legs. Ripping a 4×4 would bog it down. One of the reasons I went 3 HP. I would have gone to the 4 HP but I only had the 20A line. My 30 has my DC on it.

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

5020 posts in 2776 days


#12 posted 10-22-2021 12:10 PM

+1 Saw stop has lists of recommended and not recommended blades. Look it up.

IME – Freud P410T dulls quicker than most other ‘general purpose’ 40T TK blades. It’s cheaper than rest for reason; carbide teeth are smaller and can not be re-sharpened as many times as more expensive blades. The Forest WWII is more durable, but Tenryu lasted longest between sharpening for me.

Don’t own a SS, but if I did, would be worried about blade cost as you tend to destroy blades when cartridge fires?

Not thin Kerf, but really like the Delta blades on Knotscott's cheap saw blade list
Picked up a $20 Delta 40T ATB blade, and have really surprised at durability and cut quality. Shipping is little cheaper buying on fleabay for me. The Delta 18T FTG rip blade is perfect for 8/4-12/4 lumber, even on a 1.75HP contractor saw.

The ~$30 Delta blades are my go to blades for softwoods, or anything loaded with knots that might dull my preferred Tenryu blades quicker.

PS – If you have a choice when buying Freud, buy the silver coated blades. That red coating is a joke IMHO. Most blade cleaners will pull some red off, and it leaves red marks on edges of boards if saw alignment or your technique is not perfect. Coating also becomes tacky after heavy use in my 105° Arizona shop in summer. The LU79R010 (Plywood & Melamine) is only red blade I use anymore. It does a good job on melamine and hardwood veneer panels where you want near zero tear out, and don’t cut enough panels to justify the Tenryu Mel-Pro blades at double the price.

YMMV

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, Doom, despair, agony on me… - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

View rcs47's profile

rcs47

230 posts in 4411 days


#13 posted 10-22-2021 04:55 PM

The label on the Forrest blade cover says Catalog No. WW10407100 (the blade on the saw now).

Looking at the Frued again, it is a full kerf blade (48 tooth). Their Premier Fusion line I picked up at Woodcraft years ago.

Full kerf, thin kerf, they both cut great. Thinking back, I can’t remember much difference between the two in terms of cutting speed.

-- Doug - As my Dad taught me, you're not a cabinet maker until you can hide your mistakes.

View Robert's profile

Robert

4783 posts in 2763 days


#14 posted 10-22-2021 06:02 PM

I ve had zero issues with power using a full kerf blade.

- dbw
Yes.

I ran full kerf blades on mine too. Yes compared to my 3HP it strains a little as expected.

I don’t notice any appreciable difference tuning a TK blade.

If it cord with a full kerf RK then get a full kerf blade.

If I were buying one Forrest blade it would be 50T.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Steve's profile

Steve

2641 posts in 1864 days


#15 posted 10-22-2021 06:13 PM

Is this saw new? Why not just use the blade that it comes with for the time being?

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