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Plane Restoration - Epoxy Paint

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Forum topic by TxSurveyor posted 10-19-2021 06:34 PM 720 views 0 times favorited 29 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TxSurveyor

109 posts in 176 days


10-19-2021 06:34 PM

Topic tags/keywords: japanning restoration plane stanley type 13 epoxy paint bailey

Diving into the world of plane restoration. Been reading and watching videos on plane restoration.

Just recently got a handful of Stanley planes from someone. Two of them are Stanley Type 13s (1925-1928), a No. 4 and a No. 7. They are rusted out pretty heavily and no japanning except a few small patches. No. 4 has a nice patina, may try and do as little as possible. No. 7 is rough! Not really a patina as much as a thick layer of rust. I expect pitting as I start peeling back the layers.

I plan on ”restoring” them to working tools….My question is....

Do you think epoxy based paint would any good?

I realize this wouldn’t but it wouldn’t be a true restoration. I think it would be very durable. Don’t plan on selling them, at least anytime soon. Would love make it a true restoration that restored it as it would have been originally, but honestly, japanning is new to me and seems a little overwhelming

Would love to hear opinions (brace for impact! haha)

Edit: I realize this is a very opinion based question, but opinions are what I’m after.

-- Will, TX -- "You may all go to hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crockett


29 replies so far

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BlasterStumps

2152 posts in 1724 days


#1 posted 10-19-2021 07:09 PM

Dupli-color black engine enamel works well. Spray can. Give it about 3 coats.

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." MIke in CO

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TxSurveyor

109 posts in 176 days


#2 posted 10-19-2021 08:14 PM



Dupli-color black engine enamel works well. Spray can. Give it about 3 coats.

- BlasterStumps


Thanks! Use primer?

-- Will, TX -- "You may all go to hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crockett

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splintergroup

6026 posts in 2507 days


#3 posted 10-19-2021 09:46 PM

I used a lot of the epoxy paints (spray and canned) when doing automotive work. Great for chassis parts, very durable.

It has a glossy gloss, no real way to avoid that, but otherwise is excellent. I always used over primer.

Dries real slow so runs if applied too thick. Multiple coats is best.

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SMP

4959 posts in 1190 days


#4 posted 10-19-2021 10:02 PM

Dupli-color black engine enamel works well. Spray can. Give it about 3 coats.

- BlasterStumps

Thanks! Use primer?

- TxSurveyor

I use it over the self etching primer rattle cans and have great results for user planes.

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/primers/self-etching-primer

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drsurfrat

1091 posts in 471 days


#5 posted 10-19-2021 10:29 PM

I would suggest removing all the old japanning. Any leftovers will leave a visible step and ruin an otherwise nice look. Nathan (Lazyman) made a good, quick sandblaster in this post. see the following comments – the whole thread is about restorations.

I also gave up on matching the original on one jack plane, painted it a brick red.

-- Mike (near Boston) ... Laziness is the mother of invention, necessity is the mother of exhaustion - me

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TxSurveyor

109 posts in 176 days


#6 posted 10-20-2021 02:36 AM



I used a lot of the epoxy paints (spray and canned) when doing automotive work. Great for chassis parts, very durable.

It has a glossy gloss, no real way to avoid that, but otherwise is excellent. I always used over primer.

Dries real slow so runs if applied too thick. Multiple coats is best.

- splintergroup

Thanks!

-- Will, TX -- "You may all go to hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crockett

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TxSurveyor

109 posts in 176 days


#7 posted 10-20-2021 02:39 AM



I would suggest removing all the old japanning. Any leftovers will leave a visible step and ruin an otherwise nice look. Nathan (Lazyman) made a good, quick sandblaster in this post. see the following comments – the whole thread is about restorations.

I also gave up on matching the original on one jack plane, painted it a brick red.

- drsurfrat

That blast gun is fantastic! Definitely going to give that a shot. I have 5 to do.

I like your idea of going rogue and doing a color other than black.

-- Will, TX -- "You may all go to hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crockett

View onetalltexan's profile

onetalltexan

1 post in 324 days


#8 posted 10-20-2021 09:23 AM



I used a lot of the epoxy paints (spray and canned) when doing automotive work. Great for chassis parts, very durable.

It has a glossy gloss, no real way to avoid that, but otherwise is excellent. I always used over primer.

Dries real slow so runs if applied too thick. Multiple coats is best.

- splintergroup

My only experience was with catalyzed epoxy paint, it was fast drying and stuck to almost anything…but the smell and vapors were bad. We had the wrong respirators on and ended up with fume headaches.

-Bryan

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Lazyman

8229 posts in 2672 days


#9 posted 10-20-2021 03:52 PM

I’ve probably stripped about 5 planes (just did a couple of block planes a couple of weeks ago) now using that redneck engineering sandblaster and it definitely works. You’ll want long sleeves and maybe long pants and heavy gloves as well as goggles and a face shield. Obviously move out to the yard. The masonry sand works but I suspect you would get better performance from a real sandblaster medium, though since you will basically lose it without a cabinet, the sand is a much cheaper option (<$5 for 50lbs). I screen out the largest pieces with an old mesh colander. I use a wood hand screw clamp on the block planes to hold them in position because it takes 2 hands to work the sandblaster—one to hold the bottle up.

I repainted my restorations with the Dupli-color engine paint mentioned above. Doesn’t seem to need primer. I usually do 3 or 4 coats, which have to be applied within an hour, 10+ minutes apart, or you have to wait to apply extra coats (see the label).

Before I started using the sandblaster, I have immersed in Evaporust and it works well but does leave the steel looking a little dark if that matters to you. Nice thing about it is that if you don’t want to strip the paint or nickel plating, it won’t hurt any paint or plating that does not have rust under it so it a good option for rust only removal.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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splintergroup

6026 posts in 2507 days


#10 posted 10-20-2021 03:55 PM

I’ve always sandblasted larger items outside of the cabinet with common sand from the gravel yard (I use silica sand in the cabinet).

Sifting is a must since a pile of sand outdoors gets full of cat “leavings” 8^)

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SMP

4959 posts in 1190 days


#11 posted 10-20-2021 04:11 PM

If you are going to sandblast with sand just make sure to use a REAL respirator that can block out fine silica dust. That is about the WORST way to die.

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Lazyman

8229 posts in 2672 days


#12 posted 10-20-2021 04:20 PM

+1 on the dust protection. I also make sure that the wind is at my back.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Don W's profile

Don W

20244 posts in 3852 days


#13 posted 10-23-2021 12:01 PM

View DevinT's profile

DevinT

2097 posts in 251 days


#14 posted 10-23-2021 12:10 PM

For rust protection, how about Barricade?

-- Devin, SF, CA

View TxSurveyor's profile

TxSurveyor

109 posts in 176 days


#15 posted 10-25-2021 12:50 PM



https://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/26/bench-plane-restoration-guide-part-1/

- Don W

Thanks Don. This is very helpful.

-- Will, TX -- "You may all go to hell and I will go to Texas" - Davy Crockett

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