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Forum topic by RevAndy posted 10-01-2021 11:49 AM 328 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RevAndy

5 posts in 64 days


10-01-2021 11:49 AM

Topic tags/keywords: rigid table saw fence rigid r4517 better fence tablesaw

I have a R4517 contractor saw. The fence is too basic and narrow. Is there another fence from a different model, like R4513 that would fit and be an improvement?

-- Andy @ Rev. A Woodworking


5 replies so far

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jonah

2260 posts in 4586 days


#1 posted 10-01-2021 02:01 PM

There’s no easy way to mount a better fence to that saw. What you’d end up having to do is basically build a surround for the saw and mount a real fence to that. Allan Little (AskWoodMan) on youtube has done just that – check out his rather ambitious saw station series.

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RevAndy

5 posts in 64 days


#2 posted 10-01-2021 09:09 PM

I’ve thought about doing something like that, thanks. My Delta band saw had no fence at all so I built a surround for the table, however my design left adjusting the fence position, and keeping it square, a bit too cumbersome. I’ll check out Allan Little on YouTube.

Thanks again for your response.

-- Andy @ Rev. A Woodworking

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gbarnas

23 posts in 70 days


#3 posted 10-01-2021 10:24 PM

FWIW – I built an 8’ wide fence for my Ridgid TS-3650 from 15-series 80/20 strut. Smooth 1.5 square guides front and back, two pieces of 1530 series (1.5×3”) about 9” longer than the table – one laid flat and one vertical – gave me 4.5” high / 3” wide fence. Had maple and HDPE facings that could slide into the slots. This used a 2-wide bearing with locking lever on the front and a 1-wide bearing on the rear. A Wixey digital gauge completed the system, and I could accurately cut 54” right of blade. I did need to add support legs and a cross-piece to the end, but that was made from 1×2 and Masonite.

My TS-3650 was damaged when I moved, and the Grizzly G1023 that’s coming has the wide rail set, so it’s sitting in the shop somewhere as surplus.. I’ll check this weekend and see if I can get some pictures.

-- Glenn, Jersey Shore, NJ

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RevAndy

5 posts in 64 days


#4 posted 10-01-2021 10:37 PM

@Gbarnas I’m sure we would love to see the pics if it’s not too much trouble.

-- Andy @ Rev. A Woodworking

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gbarnas

23 posts in 70 days


#5 posted 10-02-2021 12:52 AM


Photo from last year – this is the fence mounted on my TS-3650, with a sliding push stick I used for thin rips. Next photos are from tonight.


This is the general layout – 1515S is the front/rear rail, and the two pieces of 1530 form the fence. This has the maple facing installed. On the saw, the rear bearing would be around the rear rail, but the saw-horses aren’t wide enough to allow that now.


The “business end” – this is a 4-wide bearing with a “tail”. The bearing slides on the 1515 rail and locks with a 1/4 turn of the red handle. You can see the 1530 laying flat and secured to the 2 left-most holes in the bearing, a second piece is mounted vertically and secured with three 1530 “L” brackets.


Closeup showing the mounting of the bearing, bearing brake, and the two 1530 pieces. The steel bracket is the mount for the Wixey digital gauge.


Closeup of the rear bearing. This is a 2-wide bearing with a tail. Note that 2 of the 3 slide bearings are removed – this allows smoother sliding, and the weight keeps the top bearing in the slot and aligned.

Alignment was pretty easy. I got some 1/2” socket drive Allen keys so you can really torque down the bolts. You loosen the bolts on the front bearing. Insert a 3/4 MDF strip into the miter slot, then slide the fence up to the MDF. Set the rear bearing first, locking in the Allen screws. Verify alignment, then snug and torque down the front screws. If you have the Wixey Gauge, remove the MDF, raise the blade a bit and slide the fence up to the blade, making sure you don’t deflect the blade with sideways pressure. Zero the gauge. I would check the alignment before any serious project, but only had to reset it once in the almost 3 years I used it. I’d occasionally spray the rails with silicone spray and give them a wipe – the fence glides pretty freely but not so much that it will move on its own when setting it up – it is somewhat heavy and feels solid.

I had a couple of gadgets that ran on the top of the fence to keep my fingers away from the blade when making thin cuts (pic 1). You can mount finger boards (as shown) and even anti-kickback rollers into the t-slots, not to mention clamp almost anything to the face, top, and back of the fence. I’ve also used small stop-blocks front and back of the fence in the front rail to switch quickly between two cutting sizes.

-- Glenn, Jersey Shore, NJ

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