Bevel only coloring and inlay

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Forum topic by willhime posted 09-10-2021 06:05 AM 339 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View willhime's profile


188 posts in 2782 days

09-10-2021 06:05 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question resource tip trick maple mahogany wenge walnut finishing veneering

Does anyone know how to color just the bevel on a piece? And/or do inlay for just the bevel ? I ran across these two pieces and was interested in trying it out

-- Burn your fire for no witness

8 replies so far

View DevinT's profile


1917 posts in 209 days

#1 posted 09-10-2021 12:48 PM

For coloring, I’d say paint and tape.

Doing inlay on the bevel, I would say that you put your inlay veneer over the top of your piece and then put another veneer over that which looks like the wood to give the impression that you put an inlay into the bevel. When you chamfer the edge, it looks like you painstakingly inlayed to the bevel when in reality you just cut the bevel and that exposed more of the hidden veneer.

-- Devin, SF, CA

View Tony1212's profile


596 posts in 2977 days

#2 posted 09-10-2021 12:59 PM

Guitar builders do a lot of this. There are some that use faux binding where they just leave the edge of the top un-stained so it looks like plastic binding from a distance.

Then there are more elaborate coloring schemes that use different colors on the bevels.

Both of these are usually done with good masking tape, sanding any bleed through, and touching up any sanding errors with a Q-tip.

-- Tony, SW Chicago Suburbs

View AlanWS's profile


164 posts in 4801 days

#3 posted 09-10-2021 01:13 PM

If you search for these, it’s likely helpful to know that a bevel that does not reach all the way across is usually called a chamfer.

-- Alan in Wisconsin

View shipwright's profile


8751 posts in 4041 days

#4 posted 09-10-2021 04:39 PM

Rout a rebate around the corner, glue in a square piece of your colour, and then rout a chamfer.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese!

View EarlS's profile


4754 posts in 3591 days

#5 posted 09-10-2021 05:21 PM

+1 – Shipwright – you get the best results that way and it is easier than trying to glue veneer. Basically glue pieces of wood together then make the edge profiles. Inlaid dovetails use the same idea.

-- Earl "I'm a pessamist - generally that increases the chance that things will turn out better than expected"

View splintergroup's profile


5863 posts in 2465 days

#6 posted 09-10-2021 05:25 PM

For the easiest solution, Devin’s technique is a no-brainer, sure success solution. Just requires the veneer layers (which could be resawn off the parts, then re-attached)

Paul’s technique is what first popped into my head for the curved surfaces, you can get “chunky” when fitting the accent around the corners and into the rebate (rabbet), then clean up with a chamfer bit, either round or angled.

View willhime's profile


188 posts in 2782 days

#7 posted 09-14-2021 09:33 PM

Lol, yeah I’ve corrected my lady from bevel to chamfer so many times it’s now clawed it’s ways into my subconscious.

The masking tape method seems to be pretty prominent in these higher end pieces. The rebate method sounds very doable. I’m still scratching my head on the curved maple piece. Whether it’s crazy custom clamping cauls or vacuum sealed.

-- Burn your fire for no witness

View Lazyman's profile


7959 posts in 2630 days

#8 posted 09-14-2021 09:36 PM

The rebate will work well for the top picture but the bottom one with the curved corners would be tough.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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