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Best companion to a 24T rip blade: 40T or 60T?

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Forum topic by Winny94 posted 08-28-2021 03:59 AM 894 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Winny94

112 posts in 1728 days


08-28-2021 03:59 AM

I have about 1500 bd/ft of walnut that will most likely be ripped at least once before it’s used up, so a dedicated rip blade seems to have its place in my rotation, but what you recommend for a companion/gen purpose blade? 40T or 60T? (Assuming same hook angle, tooth design, etc)


22 replies so far

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Rich

7569 posts in 1876 days


#1 posted 08-28-2021 04:55 AM

How thick is the walnut? You might not even need a rip blade, depending on your saw.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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Winny94

112 posts in 1728 days


#2 posted 08-28-2021 05:10 AM



How thick is the walnut? You might not even need a rip blade, depending on your saw.

- Rich


Oh about 80% is 4/4 or 5/4 and the rest 8/4. (Some of the 4/4 will be glued up to make more 8/4 tho)
Saw is a mid 80s PM66 (3 horse motor)

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Rich

7569 posts in 1876 days


#3 posted 08-28-2021 05:21 AM


Oh about 80% is 4/4 or 5/4 and the rest 8/4. (Some of the 4/4 will be glued up to make more 8/4 tho)
Saw is a mid 80s PM66 (3 horse motor)

- Winny94

You really don’t need a rip blade for that. Something like a good 40 tooth blade will handle that lumber using that saw.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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Fred Hargis

7298 posts in 3780 days


#4 posted 08-28-2021 10:49 AM

Mine “companion” blades are mostly 40 tooth ATB, though I have one 30 tooth…I actually use the 30 tooth on occasion for thicker pieces being ripped. Seems like Forrest used to recommend their 40 tooth combo for ripping up to 1” thick, after that get something a little more aggressive.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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Robert

4792 posts in 2767 days


#5 posted 08-28-2021 11:56 AM

I use a 40 tooth general purpose and an 80 tooth for plywood.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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tvrgeek

2299 posts in 2936 days


#6 posted 08-28-2021 12:59 PM

I stay away from combo blades. I had a Freud and a Ridge. Tossed the Freud and sold the Ridge. Amazing how much better a proper rib ( CMT 24 full normally and a Diablo thin 24) works. 3 1/2” oak rips like butter.

For crosscut and sheets, I run a 60 tooth Amana. I have the 80 tooth Amana on my miter I can always grab if I need it. I have a lot of plywood work in the near future and may consider a dedicated plywood blade, but just some tape and a skim cut may work just as well.

Combo blades to everything, just nothing very well. With a 3 Hp saw, you can power your way though, but why? Only place for a combo blade (IMHO) maybe would be on a jobsite saw where no one is going to take the time to change blades. If I had a production shop, I would have multiple tools so no lost time in setup.

We spend thousands on the motor (TS) and hundreds on wood, but it is the blade that does the cutting and for some reason, people want to scrimp on the blade. I am just a hobbyist hack, and BOY can I tell the difference. So, why “try and get away with it” when you can do it correctly?

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LeeRoyMan

2261 posts in 1014 days


#7 posted 08-28-2021 02:39 PM

While there are a lot of good blades, I always recommend the Tenyru Gold Medal 40 tooth
https://www.amazon.com/Tenryu-GM-25540-combo-gold-medal/dp/B006YCBM4G
One of the best all around combo blades I have used.
Unlike what tvrgeek says: ”Combo blades do everything, just nothing very well.”

The Tenyru Gold does just about everything you would normally use it for, Very Good.
Combo blades aren’t meant for replacing dedicated blades, but their use comes in using them for the multiple
cuts that fall in between dedicated blades.

Once you have one you will find you’re not changing blades near as often because the Tenyru does such a good job.

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Rich

7569 posts in 1876 days


#8 posted 08-28-2021 02:42 PM

A general purpose blade and a combination blade are two totally different things, each with its own strengths.

If you’re going to talk brands, you need to include which line you’re referring to. Simply referring to a Freud blade is meaningless. Is it a Freud Diablo piece of garbage, or their Industrial or Fusion line, which are premium blades?

To say that one or another style of blade sucks is a joke too. Each is designed for a particular purpose and, assuming it’s a premium blade, will do its intended job well. If it doesn’t, it’s likely due to the user not having a clue what they’re doing.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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SMP

4967 posts in 1192 days


#9 posted 08-28-2021 03:20 PM

I haven’t tried the Tenryu, but i have an Amana combination blade that I leave in my saw for 98% of the stuff I use my saw for and it works great. I mainly use walnut, oak and cherry.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

7298 posts in 3780 days


#10 posted 08-28-2021 03:30 PM


We spend thousands on the motor (TS) and hundreds on wood, but it is the blade that does the cutting and for some reason, people want to scrimp on the blade. I am just a hobbyist hack, and BOY can I tell the difference. So, why “try and get away with it” when you can do it correctly?

- tvrgeek

You are entitled to your opinion, but your point on “scrimping” on blades is really misguided. Nowhere in this post has any cheaped out on sawblades. I use a combo for convenience…..and it cuts really well….it also was not cheap. During a project I often go back and forth between cross cuts and rip cuts quite a bit. Now I’m a hobbyist and never worry about time, but changing blades for every cut would take a lot of joy out of my shop time.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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knotscott

8434 posts in 4662 days


#11 posted 08-28-2021 04:25 PM

I’d think something like the Forrest 30T WWII, and a 60T ATB would serve you quite well for the task at hand.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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waho6o9

9105 posts in 3864 days


#12 posted 08-28-2021 04:55 PM

Given the choices I’d go for the 60T

View xedos's profile

xedos

460 posts in 587 days


#13 posted 08-30-2021 12:19 PM

We spend thousands on the motor (TS) and hundreds on wood, but it is the blade that does the cutting and for some reason, people want to scrimp on the blade. I am just a hobbyist hack, and BOY can I tell the difference. So, why “try and get away with it” when you can do it correctly?

- tvrgeek

You are entitled to your opinion, but your point on “scrimping” on blades is really misguided. Nowhere in this post has any cheaped out on sawblades. I use a combo for convenience…..and it cuts really well….it also was not cheap. During a project I often go back and forth between cross cuts and rip cuts quite a bit. Now I m a hobbyist and never worry about time, but changing blades for every cut would take a lot of joy out of my shop time.

- Fred Hargis

If you’re looking to get away with one or two blades , then I think you kinda are cheapening out on blades. Even if you’re buying a Forrest or Ridge.

Can it be done ? Absolutely. Could even do it with only one like a 40t combo or general purpose. Different manuf. refer to them under both names. But I get tvr’s point about spending many thousands on a saw, and big $ on wood; then fretting about spending a hundred bucks ea. for a couple of blades.

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xedos

460 posts in 587 days


#14 posted 08-30-2021 12:20 PM


.and it cuts really well

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

7298 posts in 3780 days


#15 posted 08-30-2021 12:50 PM

Winny, did you come to a conclusion about your blade?????

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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