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Forum topic by Schmacker posted 07-21-2021 10:29 PM 344 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Schmacker

26 posts in 33 days


07-21-2021 10:29 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question router

I need to order a switch for the Norm style cabinet/table I’m building. I did a search here on LJ for some guidance but quickly got confused by all the jargon; contactor, relay, solenoid, IEC, UL, NEMA, yada yada yada. Who knew a switch could be this complicated. :-( I just want to make some dust; but do it safely. :-)

Since I’ll be hanging a PC 7518 in the table, what do I need to look for in a switch?

-- Bob, North Carolina, ......... Perfect: adjective: 1- That which will get no better or no worse, as long as you leave it the heck alone!


16 replies so far

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WoodenDreams

1351 posts in 1069 days


#1 posted 07-22-2021 12:51 AM

This is the switch I have for one of my router tables. I have it positioned so I can bump it with my leg to turn it off.

is similar to this https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/71638-jessem-router-table-switch?item=86N4270

or this one https://www.woodcraft.com/products/kreg-multi-purpose-router-table-switch

or this one https://www.woodcraft.com/products/power-switch-for-router-table

You attach it at the router table or work bench and plug it into the wall. You can plug up to two tools into the back of it, and becomes the Safety on/off switch for both tools.

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Woodmaster1

1787 posts in 3745 days


#2 posted 07-22-2021 12:56 AM

I got a switch from Kreg for one table and the other switch from a second hand purchase from my woodworking club The Kreg switch I got at a wood expo at 10% discount. The other switch was from a woodpecker stand. I got the stand and switch for $40. You can just use a standard light switch that is the cheapest option I have used before I got the Kreg switch.

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ibewjon

2535 posts in 3951 days


#3 posted 07-22-2021 03:09 AM

There are many paddle style switches available. Ones with a large red paddle to easily shut down with a knee or a hit in an emergency. Don’t use a light switch. Those are not rated for motors, even small ones. And those are not as easy to shut off quickly if need arises. Be safe, not cheap. Look at Woodcraft, Rockler, and other woodworking sites.

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bigJohninvegas

1063 posts in 2620 days


#4 posted 07-22-2021 03:33 AM



This is the switch I have for one of my router tables. I have it positioned so I can bump it with my leg to turn it off.

is similar to this https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/71638-jessem-router-table-switch?item=86N4270

or this one https://www.woodcraft.com/products/kreg-multi-purpose-router-table-switch

or this one https://www.woodcraft.com/products/power-switch-for-router-table

You attach it at the router table or work bench and plug it into the wall. You can plug up to two tools into the back of it, and becomes the Safety on/off switch for both tools.

- WoodenDreams

Any of these switches would be fine. Mine looks pretty close to the Jessem switch pictured off Lee valleys web site.
Funny though, I found this broken router table at a yard sale. Had a couple tools that were something like a $1 each. showed them that the table was no good, not worth fixing, and that I could maybe salvage the switch for my own project. They agreed and told me to just take it. It is now on its 3rd table…

-- John

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MrRon

6091 posts in 4402 days


#5 posted 07-22-2021 06:12 AM

As Iberjon said, don’t use a light switch. You need a switch that has a HP rating. I assume those mentioned from Lee Valley and Woodcraft are HP rated. The reason for not using a light switch is; the switch sees an induction load (motor) which causes a spark across the switch contacts. That will burn up the switch in no time. Light switches are for switching resistance loads.

View Robert's profile

Robert

4639 posts in 2639 days


#6 posted 07-22-2021 08:37 AM

I used a light switch on a two different 3 1/4HP router for 15 years.

Guess that was wrong…….

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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controlfreak

2487 posts in 760 days


#7 posted 07-22-2021 09:45 AM

Three things about the safety switch. 1) you can bump it off. 2) the on button is protected from inadvertently turning on 3) no one will get confused and turn it on because they think you need more light while changing the bit.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

7084 posts in 3652 days


#8 posted 07-22-2021 11:40 AM

I recommend this one. I really like having a magnetic switch that drops out with the power blinks, and it have the paddle that so many have recommended. It is Chinese, but it’s really hard to find such things that aren’t imported.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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ibewjon

2535 posts in 3951 days


#9 posted 07-22-2021 12:02 PM

Years ago, some light switches had hp ratings, and were better quality switches.

View clagwell's profile

clagwell

371 posts in 951 days


#10 posted 07-22-2021 12:45 PM



Years ago, some light switches had hp ratings, and were better quality switches.

- ibewjon

You can still find those. Here's an example.

-- Dave, Tippecanoe County, IN --- Is there a corollary to Beranek.s Law that applies to dust collection?

View tvrgeek's profile (online now)

tvrgeek

2077 posts in 2808 days


#11 posted 07-22-2021 01:40 PM

I use this one too.


I recommend this one. I really like having a magnetic switch that drops out with the power blinks, and it have the paddle that so many have recommended. It is Chinese, but it s really hard to find such things that aren t imported.

- Fred Hargis


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tvrgeek

2077 posts in 2808 days


#12 posted 07-22-2021 01:43 PM

Only those designed for inductive loads. Light switches are not designed for inductive loads and should not be used. You can still get HP rates switches. ( much larger contacts)

For power tools, a magnetic switch is best and pretty much by definition, they will have HP ratings. To go up[scale, they may include magnetic and thermal breakers in them too, but those get really expensive. Several hundred.


Years ago, some light switches had hp ratings, and were better quality switches.

- ibewjon


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Overmountainww

28 posts in 9 days


#13 posted 07-22-2021 01:54 PM

I found alot of switches on Amazon too. I had to replace the one on my benchtop Craftsman drillpress. it took some searching and such but finally found it. good luck!

-- Overmountainww

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JohnDon

169 posts in 2328 days


#14 posted 07-22-2021 04:46 PM

+1 on Fred’s and tvrgeek’s recommendation.

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Madmark2

2958 posts in 1747 days


#15 posted 07-22-2021 07:28 PM

I have several safety interlocks on my table router. Since the switch on the router itself is inaccessible a 2nd switch is mandatory.

My side stand is wired with a switched duplex outlet and indicator light. This helps remind me if the outlet itself is hot before plugging in, however false starts are still possible.

I have a deadman foot switch between the router cord and the switched outlet. This absolutely prevents false starts and shuts the router off if I stumble (a real risk with just the one leg).

When changing bits the outlet is off and the foot switch unplugged for absolute safety.

The side stand holds half a dozen corded power tools, three sanders, 3/8 vsr drill, biscuiter, circ saw. All of which share the outlet with the router and any other corded tool I drag out.

The stationary tools, saw, DC, planer, anything bolted down, all have their own outlets so no plugging, unplugging on the bigger tools. The saw and DC have dedicated circuits with twist-loc connectors so no possibility of cord kick out or cross connections.

I have three quad boxes on 12/3 SJ cables, each with its own gfc/arc 15A breakers. Yes they’re floor snakes but they run behind/under things or along the walls.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

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