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Help With Miter Cuts

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Forum topic by DangerDoug posted 07-18-2021 10:39 AM 1247 views 0 times favorited 46 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DangerDoug

105 posts in 2860 days


07-18-2021 10:39 AM

Good morning all,

I was having trouble getting a good miter cut on a simple project.
The tools I was using:
Bosch 12” slider with $50 (sale price) Makita crosscut blade
Heavy Rockwell 10” T-Saw – also a $50 blade
[this Rockwell had a major tune-up last year, all new bearings, etc.]
This is not about cutting square or chipping, the blades: one new, the other, sharp-enough.
When crosscutting: used clamps, 5lb weights and/or good solid hand pressure
Glue up—used corner clamps, and a strap-ratchet in the middle of the box.

I was getting a cup in the miters. The wood, BB ply rips approx 12” wide. The front and back looked perfectly cut, but could see light through the middle of the miter, even my wife thought this was strange, good and bad at the same time.

Eventually I tried pre-cutting the miter on the T-saw, leaving about 1/8” then back to the Bosch for the final cut,,, awful I know, and that didn’t work either.

I don’t know about this Bosch, it might be ok, but thinking the blade didn’t track right, scooping out wood during the cut. I was not rushing or overloading anything.

Wasted a lot of hours, which is fine once in a while, but want to get this sorted out.

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.


46 replies so far

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tvrgeek

2259 posts in 2862 days


#1 posted 07-18-2021 11:11 AM

I was having the same issues with my Ridgid miter saw. I switched to a full kerf blade ( Amana 80 tooth AMT, 10 degree) and it helped quite a bit. Also, making positive hold downs. I then made my own jig from steel to hold crown so I only do a miter, not a compound which seemed to be the biggest problem. Last test cuts seemed much better.

Sliding/compound saws are inherently sloppier. I wish I never sold my original Delta simple miter as it was more accurate.

On the TS, best to make a sled with positive hold downs. Again, a full kerf blade helps. I run a Amana 60 tooth.

For picture frames and even face frame fine detail, I have a clone Lyons miter trimmer. It is how I get a edge perfect trim.

The other “fix” sometimes mentioned is expensive. Festool. Seems it is a little better. I am not ready to go there yet.

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tvrgeek

2259 posts in 2862 days


#2 posted 07-18-2021 11:24 AM

Oh yea, I also did a lot of work to make my table, ZCI, and fence on the Ridgid flat and square. The ZCI being a bit low allows deflection of your stock. I shimmed that sanded the original. Got a sheet of phenolic yesterday I am going to make a perfect one from. Every tiny bit adds up.

Unless you fork out the insane $1500 for a Kapex, you need to do a lot of tuning. To me, a $500 tool that is as out of square as they ALL come is inexcusable, but I guess they figure they are for rough carpentry. Only the Festool is sold as a cabinet tool.

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tvrgeek

2259 posts in 2862 days


#3 posted 07-18-2021 11:28 AM

THis sounds kind of like an ad, but actual good data and will help you tune your saw.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6i92aFcwEWY

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Robert

4714 posts in 2693 days


#4 posted 07-18-2021 12:10 PM

Sure it’s the cut vs the ply not flat?

That said, this is a job for a table saw, not a slider. Good blade or not, making a 12” cut on a slider in bevel mode is asking a lot.

You can screw a batten across the front and rear face of a ts sled and use clamp in spreader mode to keep ply flat while cutting.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View DangerDoug's profile

DangerDoug

105 posts in 2860 days


#5 posted 07-18-2021 12:19 PM

TVRgeek,

Thanks for this info, good to know others have had this issue – I was really hopping the Bosch would just make cutting miters fast/easy. Maybe these type of saw are more for crown molding projects.
The Bosch did fine on a straight 90 degree cut in the tough material.
There may be a caster-issue on the 45 degree setting, the back of the blade appeared slanted.
This is a new-ish Bosch saw btw.
Would a Kapex hold a straight line? – humm I’d want a 30 day return policy, if not.

Thanks again

View LittleBlackDuck's profile

LittleBlackDuck

7891 posts in 2034 days


#6 posted 07-18-2021 12:46 PM



.... Unless you fork out the insane $1500 for a Kapex, you need to do a lot of tuning. To me, a $500 tool that is as out of square as they ALL come is inexcusable, but I guess they figure they are for rough carpentry. Only the Festool is sold as a cabinet tool.
- tvrgeek

I’m insane and bought the Kapex and never questioned why my mitres were perfect... thanks tvrgeek for confirming my Fe$tool fetish is only in the minds of my detractors.

If I didn’t have the luxury of the Kapex, I’d have to fall back to my tablesaw sled customised for mitre cuts, as I never trusted my Hitachi slide compound.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

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Rich

7348 posts in 1802 days


#7 posted 07-18-2021 01:10 PM


I m insane and bought the Kapex and never questioned why my mitres were perfect...

- LittleBlackDuck

The only saw I would recommend with total confidence today is the Kapex. My Makita is a flawless performer, but if it ever dies, I’ll be going with the Festool.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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LittleBlackDuck

7891 posts in 2034 days


#8 posted 07-18-2021 01:20 PM


..... The only saw I would recommend with total confidence today is the Kapex. My Makita is a flawless performer, but if it ever dies, I ll be going with the Festool.
- Rich

Well I’ll be stoned (the igneous type)... you have the latest Fe$tool cordless trackSaw and not a Kapex... dare I call you a Philistine... though an upper class Philistine as you already own Fe$tool.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

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Robert

4714 posts in 2693 days


#9 posted 07-18-2021 02:55 PM

Wait, are we talking miters or bevels? BIG difference on a miter saw!!

Its a 12” wide piece of ply.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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CWWoodworking

2118 posts in 1392 days


#10 posted 07-18-2021 03:00 PM

If you have a track saw, why not just use it?

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northwoodsman

643 posts in 4959 days


#11 posted 07-18-2021 03:09 PM

I was also thinking that I would use my track saw on my Festool MFT or my table saw. FYI the larger the blade on a miter saw the more deflection you will get. A 12” sliding miter may not yield perfect results. If I ever get another sliding miter it will be the Milwaukee cordless 7-1/4”.

-- NorthWoodsMan

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bandit571

29554 posts in 3896 days


#12 posted 07-18-2021 03:19 PM

Hmmm, then there is the Olde School Ways….

What is nice about these….there be a pointy, little bolt that sticks through the fence, and prevents a part from sliding away from the saw.

No loud motor noises…..no big dust clouds….Cardio Workout…..Accurate right off the saw. No need to get out the Shooting Board….can cut any angle up to 60 degrees ( on the larger saws)

Mine uses a 28” long saw….does not take very long to cut through 1/4” of Ash….

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View LeeRoyMan's profile

LeeRoyMan

2061 posts in 940 days


#13 posted 07-18-2021 03:31 PM



Hmmm, then there is the Olde School Ways….

What is nice about these….there be a pointy, little bolt that sticks through the fence, and prevents a part from sliding away from the saw.

No loud motor noises…..no big dust clouds….Cardio Workout…..Accurate right off the saw. No need to get out the Shooting Board….can cut any angle up to 60 degrees ( on the larger saws)

Mine uses a 28” long saw….does not take very long to cut through 1/4” of Ash….

- bandit571


Will that cut a 12” wide piece?

View Gerald Thompson's profile

Gerald Thompson

1295 posts in 3447 days


#14 posted 07-18-2021 04:22 PM

I use a 45° shooting board and a LA Jack plane to tune things up. Works every time.

-- Jerry

View tvrgeek's profile (online now)

tvrgeek

2259 posts in 2862 days


#15 posted 07-18-2021 04:36 PM

Todays effort to make my miter saw better:

I bought some hold down that fir a DeWalt ( $15 for two, take that KAPEX for $95 each!)
Had to grind the taper down about a mm to match the Ridgid holes. Only work from the front, but that may help.

Made a ZCI out of phenolic that is dead level and rigid.

A bit of foil tape and the fence is closer to 90 degrees. Did some filing, but it is just a poor design to start with.

Now to a crown project and see how it did.

showing 1 through 15 of 46 replies

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