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How to improve Worksharp 3000 process and results.

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Forum topic by DW833 posted 07-10-2021 01:53 AM 1133 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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DW833

245 posts in 3130 days


07-10-2021 01:53 AM

Topic tags/keywords: worksharp improve sharpening

I’m on my second time with a WS3000. It works as advertised, but wanted to know how others use it.
So I’ve started this forum topic as a starting point on how to improve it.
Feel free to add your thoughts or just read the comments.
Not meant to be a review or comparison to other sharpening methods.

I’ll start with my setup and the issues I have.
I’m currently using diamond discs for most grits. Have a magnetic circle on one glass and that is how the
diamond disc attaches to them. The only issue I’ve found with the diamond disc is the
quality varies between each disc. Even for the same manufacturer.
Also, the accuracy of the grit level seems off on some of them. Not much difference
between my 800 and 1200 grit.

Also, have the cbn disc. They work fine and cause very little heat. But only four grits.

The thing I want to improve is the mirror polish on chisels and plane irons.
Have a bit of mirror polish, but could certainly be improved.
After the back has somewhat of a polish, I start on the edge. The process of pushing the blade in the port
and then removing it can leave some scratches on the back. I’ve thought about removing the
sandpaper in the port, but not sure if that would hurt more than help.

Which grits do you use for restoring a blade, honing, resharpening?
I’ve tried several starting points from 800 to 1200 grit for resharpening. Not much difference between them.
Don’t use the WS for honing. Use a felt wheel and polish in between sharpening sessions.

How long do you spend on each grit. Do you spend more time on lower or higher grits.

If you get a mirror finish, what is your process.

Does anyone sharpen from the top instead of through the port. How does that work for you?
Any advantage to using small amount of water on diamond disc?
Have you used Wonder Slick Stick sold by WoodTurner wonders for cbn/diamond disc?
They mention it can be used on diamond stones.


23 replies so far

View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

2918 posts in 849 days


#1 posted 07-10-2021 09:16 AM

I am enjoying mine. I was letting my chisels get too dull while working because the wet stones were messy and time consuming. This was especially true if a bevel needed correction or edge was damaged.

The sand paper in the port was intended to deburr but you can use a finer grit. A scratch is still a scratch though. I am still on sand paper disks here and may stay that way, don’t know yet.

I haven’t tried doing any carving tools yet as I am still waiting on 3 backordered one to complete my starter set. I just inspect the scratch lines and when complete I move to the next grit.

I am having trouble deciding if I want to build the disk holding tower to get the table for wide irons. I am kind of scared that with speed I can really screw up fast. I may go the diamond plate route instead but maybe some feedback here will sway me.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

7238 posts in 3741 days


#2 posted 07-10-2021 10:35 AM

I only sharpen on the top, having given up long ago on that port. I use Micro-Mesh paper on glass disks. The micro Mesh is on a really tough fabric backing and lasts a long time…I have grits up to 3600 (I think) and it really does a polish. But that fabric backing is a little thicker than other paper backed media, so moving through the grits (on several glass disks) the bevel changes a little as i get to the Micro Mesh. I also have a diamond disk (only one grit) and while it works well, I still find myself going back to the paper and Micro Mesh. I am considering the CBN disks, I have one on my Tormek and really like it….I just wish it came in a finer grit.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

2292 posts in 2897 days


#3 posted 07-10-2021 10:40 AM

I am hot and cold on mine. Adjusting all I want, I can’t get the bevels dead square. I have yet to build a stage to handle plane irons. Working from the top may improve my view.

I bought some very fine diamond disks from lapidary supply, but they can only be run wet as dry they clog in a second. 2000 and 3000. Back to the expensive WS paper for that.

WS leather strop is a bit too soft. MDF has not worked for me. I have yet to try cardboard and paste.

Anyway, I find my M-power hand jig to be much better up to 1200 grit. For now, I finish by hand.

View Thedustydutchman's profile

Thedustydutchman

89 posts in 155 days


#4 posted 07-10-2021 10:48 AM

I built a disk tower with a wide top to use as a wide blade attachment. Still currently using the ws sandpaper. If I go all the way up to the 3600 grit I can get a very nice mirror finish. The sharpening port i will agree is so so. I have it adjusted as good as I can get it. I am wanting to switch to the diamond disks as well. All in all I like the ws way better than my old stones.

-- Jerry H - Holland Michigan

View DW833's profile

DW833

245 posts in 3130 days


#5 posted 07-11-2021 09:53 PM

Thanks for the feedback.

Fred, which grits/brand of micro mesh do you use.
Jerry, If you’re getting a mirror finish, not sure the diamond disc will be much of an improvement.
I think they do save money vs sandpaper. tvrgeek is right on the higher grits. They do clog quickly.
I think the cbn disc are great. I don’t use the two higher grits.

On one of the videos for the a cbn disc I saw is that to clean the disc use PB Blaster.
Rinse well and then use something like the Wonder Slick Stick. I have the Olsen saw blade lubricant.
I’m going to try that within a couple of weeks and see how it goes.

View Dark_Lightning's profile

Dark_Lightning

4857 posts in 4357 days


#6 posted 07-11-2021 11:19 PM

I’ve been using mine to hone the edge on a chisel I’m using to cut kumiko pieces. Scary sharp sure helps with that. The honing is done in the chisel port with carboard from a cereal box glued to a glass disc. After it is honed, I “clean” the back of the chisel with 1000 grit wet-or-dry. I still have some small scratches from being to impatient and not following the grit schedule to a “t”, but I can barely feel them with my nail. That chisel tip is really shiny on the front. It’s the only bench chisel I’ve ever taken that far, given that they generally are used for chopping. It’s just a plain ol’ Stanley 1”. I’m thinking about NBC discs, because the paper wears out way to fast to suit me. I’d like some input on cost Vs longevity on them, if anyone has done that calculation.

I also use the cardboard disc face-up to hone my carving tools when I am at home. It makes short work of that, I’ll tell you!

-- Steven.......Random Orbital Nailer

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

8906 posts in 1822 days


#7 posted 07-11-2021 11:37 PM

To the question asked.

“How to improve Worksharp 3000 process and results.”

I love micro mesh, but it isn’t a long distance runner by any means, so change that paper more frequently unless you are crazy happy with your results.

Not that it does anything for the sharpening, but it will certainly help with your wallet. Make plenty of discs of 1/2” MDF, and if you do use the bottom gate as I do, paper both faces. I make them, then use a Baltic Birch copy I made, and pattern route my edges to make them perfect circles, and a drill press with a jig made for dead centering your disc. That need not be more than a piece of plywood, with a cutout in a half diamond shape to have the disc sit exactly at the center point where the bit comes down. This is held fast to your fence.

You will find having a LOT of discs allow you to go up the grits, and that alone takes less time per grit level. Trying to stretch a 120 to a 320, just doesn’t work. Nor does any other large jumps.

For paper source, versus buying from WS I go to Sisweb
Their per sheet pricing is much better. Make sure to order 6”, and PSA discs. They come no hole, but making a hole is easy if your discs are already drilled out on center. They have 1500 up to 12,000 and I use them all. For regular grits I get them from https://www.supergrit.com but you can get them from many sources, including Amazoo.

https://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/mmr_discs.htm

-- Think safe, be safe

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

7238 posts in 3741 days


#8 posted 07-12-2021 10:27 AM

I use the stuff SteveN linked, in fact it was he who directed me to them some years ago.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View JohnMcClure's profile

JohnMcClure

1403 posts in 1888 days


#9 posted 07-12-2021 10:37 AM

Thanks for this thread, I just started using my WS this weekend and I’m happy to see there are improvements to be made.
It came with 120, 400, 1000, 3600 grit, and some of the jumps seem laughable.
I also assumed it was square, and that the lopsided scratch pattern I was getting was due to me having hand sharpened off-square over the years. But now I see I need to check the sharpening port bed for squareness.

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail

View DW833's profile

DW833

245 posts in 3130 days


#10 posted 07-12-2021 11:54 AM

John, I thought the same thing about the grits. Big jumps after 400 and 1000. I think going to 600 and then 1000. 1000 to 1500, 2000 is much better.

View DW833's profile

DW833

245 posts in 3130 days


#11 posted 07-12-2021 12:03 PM

ControlFreak/Jerry, I agree on using stones of any type. Because of the type of woodworking I do and limited time, I found them to be more trouble than they are worth.

If possible, I recommend the cbn type wheels for most grits. And fill in the other grits with diamond discs. I haven’t used the highest grit cbn wheels. Even the seller mentions to be very careful with them. The four lower grits I do use are great and used them for several months. No problems with them. I think they will last for years. Not so sure about the diamond discs. Already scratched one of them. They are very inexpensive and do a great job. Will last longer than sandpaper.

However, I will be trying out the micro mesh that Steve mentions. Checked the web site and they sell a variety pack. Will start with that to see how they do.

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

2292 posts in 2897 days


#12 posted 07-12-2021 12:05 PM

Now I have a lathe, I can make some very true MDF disks. I tried raw MDF with not great results, but adding cardboard may be the trick.

View DW833's profile

DW833

245 posts in 3130 days


#13 posted 07-12-2021 12:09 PM

tvrgeek, Agree on the mdf disc. I tried the mdf disk with the first ws3000 I owned.
Didn’t care much for them.
Since I’m using the cbn/diamond disc for most grits, I don’t have a need for lots of glass or mdf disc.

That savings from not buying additional glass disc helps with purchasing the cbn disc.

View dschlic1's profile

dschlic1

515 posts in 3217 days


#14 posted 07-12-2021 06:14 PM

I use a 1200 grit diamond disk for rough sharpening. After the 1200 grit, I use green buffing compound on a MDF disk. I always sharpen from the top. For the 1200 grit, I use a jig to hold the blade in the right position. For the buffing, I hand position the blade. The buffing process is so slow, that I found that holding by hand works the best. Both bevel and back are mirror finish.

View jbmaine's profile

jbmaine

165 posts in 717 days


#15 posted 07-13-2021 07:12 PM

I built the flat surface to use a guide for using the top of the wheel, and I also built a frame with a 45 degree on one end and a 90 on the other to guide in sharpening scrapers etc. I use more power tools than hand tools but the WS works well enough for me. Here’s a few pics.

showing 1 through 15 of 23 replies

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