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Crawl space / basement access door ideas?

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3K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  bigblockyeti 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have a door leading into my dug out basement that has been in need of replacement for years. It is about 4 1/2' high and 32" wide. I will be installing a new frame made out of treated 2×6. I like to torture myself by picking joinery that I have never done before so I am looking for some ideas on style and wood to use. Not a big fan of wet treated wood but it may get some splash during rain. That said the untreated plywood and bottom don't seem to be too badly affected by water.

Here is what my thoughts are:
Would like some old school joinery, I like hand tool work but have power tools too.
Interesting design like frame, rails and maybe grooved or shiplap panels.
Can be painted or solid body stained.
Not sure what glue to use for tenons and such, so far I have only used Titebond but I don't know if outdoors will be a problem.

I am struggling to fid an inspirational photo to work from. I have tried searching "Barn doors" but the size of those doesn't seem to get me to what I am looking for. So I am open to any ideas. Here is a picture of the one that needs to go.

Plant Rectangle Door Wood Grass
 

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#4 ·
The one that is there looked almost that bad when I moved in and that was forty years ago. I don't think it is that tough of an environment especially if I keep it sealed up. I haven't even painted it in the last decade or two because it is on the to do list.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
For the jamb to be attached to the masonry, two stiles and a rail connected by a dovetail on top of each styles.
If you want a little challenge, a frame and panel door.

I made a replacement door for my son's shed. Simple tenon and mortise flat frame: two stiles and three rails. Then screwing a phenolic plywood panel on each side. For long term, paint the edge of the phenolic plywood.

edit: looking at the picture, a jamb would slightly reduce the present access width.
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
#9 ·
Good call Sylvain, I have been getting more and more into Paul Sellers lately and just signed up for the Master Classes subscription. It was both for the content and to give back in exchange for time he puts into educating future woodworkers. As I was going down the rabbit hole via your links I happened across one of your comments.

Anyway here is where I am at in my thoughts. I think I may construct door using treated 2×4 and 2×8 morticed and tenoned. I will assemble the frame (jamb) and attach the door leaving only adjustments to the bottom of each on installation day. The only thing that is bothering me is the door panels. I can do exterior plywood set in grooves or glue up some panels. Cut rebates in the panels to make them semi-flush with the face to minimize the ledge where water could sit. This method leads to my next questions. 1) can I glue up treated boards to make a panel? 2) Does treated wood damage or wear an edge more in chisels & planes?
 
#11 ·
You can build a frame for the door and use a ship-lap edge boards for the slats. Cedar would be a good choice, then use a solid color stain to seal it, matching the brick.

If you are running a dehumidifier in the crawl space you will want a good seal. You re not to far from me.

- Eric
Thanks for the reminder, I just ordered a new dehumidifier to replace the one that quit. I am in downtown Hub City so I guess Ken's is probably the only place I can find cedar maybe. Where are you?
 
#15 ·
Thanks for the reminder, I just ordered a new dehumidifier to replace the one that quit. I am in downtown Hub City so I guess Ken s is probably the only place I can find cedar maybe. Where are you?

- controlfreak
Are you looking for western red cedar or more local eastern aromatic cedar? I'm less than 20 minutes from you and have a little bit of the latter drying since 11/19.
Wood Hardwood Wood stain Plank Grass
 

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