LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

which saw blade for a circular saw for crosscutting

1K views 11 replies 9 participants last post by  knotscott 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
am making a cedar coffee table with a waterfall edge which requires me to cut to 45 on a 2 inch thick live edge slab of rec cedar. im using a dewalt 7 1/4 circular saw with a kreig sled system. I would assume a 60 tooth atb blade would do it ok but my friend says a 40 tooth would be better. I would like a splinter free cut but also would like to use the blade later for crosscutting plywood etc. I am confused with hook angle atb high atb reg kerf thin kerf etc. any help would be appreciated
 
#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
Full 2" thick stock cut at 45° needs 2" x sqr(2) ~ 2.9" of blade exposure - about the 3" max on a 10" TS.

Ain't gonna work. 7-1/4" saw isn't going to cut almost 3" depth with ANY blade. Its simply physically impossible.

Set you circ saw to max depth & measure. Now set to 45° at max depth. Set saw on your stock. Notice how blade won't cut thru the full thickness.

You need a bigger/better saw to make that cut.

Also, circ saw is about the worst tool to make a cut with the level of precision you'll need for a clean, straight, tight fitting, 45° angle on a coffee table sized slab.

Its actually a double bevel since you have to recut the offcut.

Rethink your plan or find someone with bigger & better tools.
 
#4 ·
Just checked the specs on a DeWalt 7-1/4" circ saw. Max depth of cut at 90° is 2-9/16". At 45° depth of cut is only 1-13/16". If its finished "two by" stock (1-1/2" thick) it'll just cut thru. But if your slab is rough (full 2") then you're SOL.
 
#5 ·
Just checked the specs on a DeWalt 7-1/4" circ saw. Max depth of cut at 90° is 2-9/16". At 45° depth of cut is only 1-13/16". If its finished "two by" stock (1-1/2" thick) it ll just cut thru. But if your slab is rough (full 2") then you re SOL.

- Madmark2
That's what it is designed to cut, a 2x piece of stock.

Not being into slab table making I'd say look how they do it to make a waterfall edge table on You tube. Strangely enough what I have seen from them is starting the cut as deep as it would allow with a guided circ saw, or track saw @ 45 degrees. Finishing with a Japanese pull saw. What could possibly go wrong :-0
 
#6 ·
Not being into slab table making I d say look how they do it to make a waterfall edge table on You tube. Strangely enough what I have seen from them is starting the cut as deep as it would allow with a guided circ saw, or track saw @ 45 degrees. Finishing with a Japanese pull saw. What could possibly go wrong :-0

- therealSteveN
I have one of those Japanese saws…. I would not do well on this project. However how it looks to the eye after sanding and finished is what counts.
 
#7 ·
Not being into slab table making I d say look how they do it to make a waterfall edge table on You tube. Strangely enough what I have seen from them is starting the cut as deep as it would allow with a guided circ saw, or track saw @ 45 degrees. Finishing with a Japanese pull saw. What could possibly go wrong :-0

- therealSteveN

I have one of those Japanese saws…. I would not do well on this project. However how it looks to the eye after sanding and finished is what counts.

- Jimarco
Well, if you are only going to see the top corner it won't matter. Lets say the top is exactly 2" and you are able to cut exactly 1 13/16 with the circular saw. This means you just have to cut, chew, or gnaw through that last 13/16" sliver with whatever you have at a 45 or even an angle greater than 45. Even if you accidentally cut it less than 45, 5 minutes with a rasp or file would let the joint seat properly.
 
#8 ·
Appreciate all the suggestions the slap is 1 7/8 thick i planned on using a track system to guide the saw i like the idea of the Finishing with a Japanese pull saw suggestion the inside edge would not be that important since it would be under the table. I am not considering the use of my table saw with a sled set up. Another consideration is plane the plank down to 1 3/4

Madmark thanks for the heads-up on the depth of cut i didnt think of that.
 
#9 ·
been thinking…dangerous, I know….but…..complete the cuts on the show side first with the guided circular saw. Next, gently, carefully flip the plank good side down. Maybe add a filler in the kerf. Then set up the guided circular saw to finish the cut….Support for the cut-offs is a requirement. make sure the 2 cuts will line up exactly. You can always clean things up with a hand plane.

That filler in the kerf…provides a bit off support…..it also prevents any binding during the cut.

Support can be a second sawhorse…..with both sections-to-be clamped down to the saw horses. Means you'll need 4 matching saw horses….
 
#11 ·
I would see if I could rent a 10" circular saw from home depot or find one somewhere else.
(Makita makes a descent one. )

I think it would be easier to find the right saw instead of doing multiple steps that may or may not yield descent results.

I would buy and use a new 10" 40 tooth carbide blade. (Tenyru Gold Metal is my fav.)

Another option would be to make a jig that slides over the top.
Then rough it down anyway you can, then clean it up with a router.
Building Rectangle Wood Art Wood stain
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top