I'm building a small joiners workbench and can't decide about an apron. I like having access for clamp reach under the bench top (with out apron) but seeing the functionality of an apron ….probably watching too many videos….
I know this topic is an age old debate but I'd be interested in knowing what specific problems others have encountered with and without an apron. Whether in hindsight wished they had or wished they had not built yet bench with an apron.
My bench is very much like this one from Bernard Jones' "Practical Woodworker". Showing this one since I'm at work and have this photo on my phone
I put a 2X6 apron all around the top of my bench. The front apron has 3/4" peg holes to support work horizontally, with one end clamped in the leg vise.
BUT, Thesr holes also allow the use of either holdfasts or removable head bar clamps to hold stock in place for clamping, etc.
I have also plowed a groove in the base of the apron to accommodate the tounge at the top of a deadman.
Not sure that I would like a very wide English style apron, but this six-inch version works quite well for me. Hope this helps!
I made a Paul Sellers workbench .
The apron on this bench are there to ensure no left-right raking. The front apron is glued to the workbench top making a very rigid L beam. Wedges ensure a tight fit even if the leg assemblies shrink. This workbench can be knocked down if needed.
One can still clamp things on the top if one use long enough clamps to bridge the apron height as regularly shown on P.S. videos. E.g. as seen here at about 1'50"
Although, P.S. has his own way to secure the piece to the workbench: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SozekTvPpJM
Now, if you don't have a sliding dead man I could see it would be handy with the rest holes. I don't have an apron on mine but I have a dead man on mine and I use it a fair amount.
I built mine Roubo style without an apron. I have a sliding deadman, that is very handy. If you mortise the legs directly into the top, there is no racking.
I built mine Roubo style without an apron. I have a sliding deadman, that is very handy. If you mortise the legs directly into the top, there is no racking.
If you built a sturdy trestle, there is no racking, how you attach the top doesn't matter. Biggest advantage: you avoid through tenons and maybe having to look at gaps every day.
I think aprons are cool, but not always. Ive recently chosen the direction of Bob Lang's PWW bench ; a sort-of Holtzapffel with an added rail 6" below the bench top that acts a bit like an english apron though its not.
In my opinion, there are too many really nice bench options and not enough floor space to build them all.
I built an English style from Richard Maguire's plans. However I put in a removable split kind of like a roubo style so I can clamp if needed. However, with holdfasts I find there is no need to use clamps like I thought the split would allow. IMO the bigger consideration is whether or not to make the apron flush with the rear vise face or not. I originally had it flush like the tradition English benches. There are pros and cons to that configuration, but when I tried to do some things like Paul Sellers, I quickly realized I needed the rear chop protruding away from the apron. Due to the original vise racking, and this offset issue, I replaced the vise with a metal vise and purposefully made the chop/vise stick out about an inch.
Short answer, what ever you make and figure out how to utilize will work. There are just several ways to skin the cat.
6" apron seems a bit short for anti-wobble function if no other stretcher. The minimum used by Paul Sellers is 8", although he recommends 9"
Now, Danish workbenches have a single wide(about 6"wide vertically) stretcher but at mid height .
The Moravian workbench has a single stretcher but the legs are angled.
The Schwarz narrated an interesting 10 part Vimeo series last year, where each segment is a different bench that he has. The Nicholson segment is here with his comments.
IMO, it's a matter of what kind of work you do. I think an apron would be largely in my way. I much prefer the Roubo style bench with a leg vise flush to the face of the bench. Then a slave or sliding deadman can be used to support longer work. But, Paul Sellers lives by the apron and obviously knows his stuff
In fact Paul Sellers does much of his work in the quick release vise (with a protruding vise).
(and as I follow him, I do the same and I like it)
The aprons on his bench are solely for structural reasons.
His workbench is not a Nicholson one; it sports a tick top glued to the apron making a rigid L beam and the apron is not used for clamping.
Sounds like there's a lot to consider. I appreciate everyone's insight and the links. I picked up some 3-1/2 " x 10" x 12' long oak beams (salvage from a 100+ year old house) that I'll start milling to build the top while I ponder.
My next bench will likely be my last, also #16. I've done a lot of the styles, and for where I am now which is a LOT more power tool oriented, and use hand tools just for final fit and finish. I want that under the deck storage, and there are just too many ways to mimic a deadman than to actually commit to one full time.
No way will I ever put on a crap catcher top again, AKA tool storage tray/trough, and I want it mobile, so figuring mass and wheels is doable, but another process to consider.
I say this last bit tongue in cheek. Boiled in oil before I would build a bench, just because some dood with a show, article, or website told me to.
TherealSteveN, I appreciate your candor. You're right, there are many videos, websites and the like sharing alternative viewpoints. How's a person to know what's the one right way? Hence the reason for my question, to get the different opinions of those using workbenches to do woodworking. And my conclusion?????plenty to consider understanding the various viewpoints, some of which I hadn't considered. Consider the tool tray, I can't stand tools etc falling off of my current bench so I'll incorporate a tool tray. But noting the love/ hate relationship with them I'm now designing it for ease of cleaning with the ability to replace it with a solid option.
The differences of opinions on this site has provided me with the greatest learning.
I would suggest the simple plus minus columns people use to make a decision. On the Left put what you absolutely feel you need from a bench. Heck for some folks it could be both mass and front/end vises. While others may say, gee if I just had an electric outlet to plug in my hand tools? Essentially all will be a dead flat space to stage your work, and assemblies on.
The right obviously is maybes, and nope's. You can fine tune after a pass or two. After readjusting a few times, start your build.
I also would suggest to anyone building your first bench not to spend much money. That way after using it a few weeks, months, years, you will be able to say what was I thinking, or heck yeah. I made good choices.
Like I said then next will be #17. Spread over 52 years. That's a bench every 3 years or so. Some I end up keeping, but maybe not using as much, or just for single purpose, but I have always had a bigger shop, so 4 or 5 benches is plenty of that precious horizontal space. Always in short supply it seems.
RE: The deadman I mentioned earlier. As stated, it rides in a groove in the base of the apron, which goes all the way to the right end. The deadman extends to the floor. So, unless it is needed, the deadman is detached from the bench, and is not blocking anything below the top.
I originally had a Paul sellers bench and got rid of it after several years. The apron was one of the reasons. I use dogs all the time, almost every time I'm at the bench and it's not convenient with his bench at all due to the apron. I also think tool trays inspire a messy bench but that's another debate.
therealsteveN, Not much $ in it yet. 4×4 kiln dried dunnage a friend gave me. Finished at 3-1/4 ish once planed straight and square.
Old reclaimed timbers at $1.25bf. 3-1/2" x 10" x 12' thick White oak planks, full 3×6 x10' douglas fir, chestnut and a 2"x17" x14' pine board (stairwell molding out of a 1920s building. Or so I was told) about 160bf total.
Definitely building on a budget.
My absolute must have is no more than 60" long. Some type of face/leg vise making use of an old vise screw bought online and with a quick release vise on the end.
Dave, you may be right about the tool tray.. I probably should focus on having less on the bench.
My procrastinating on this is kind of funny when I consider that I built this book case for my daughter when she was 6. .
She turned 40 this year. At a time when I didnt have a pot to pee in. Built on a basement floor with a hand saw and a borrowed router. Splurged on the knobs back then. Her kids use it now, dings and scratches but solid as ever. Kind of funny how perspectives change.
Steve N, You are SO right about the infamous "tool tray/tool well". Well it is. A dark hole. I had a commercially made workbench for about 8 years, on which the tool well was integral to the construction design of the bench. This was a MAJOR PITA. Tools banged around in there, fell over into it, small screws, nuts, etc fell into it, and invariably through the clean out hole into another dimension. It was more of a tool HELL than anything else. It was a joyous day when I filled in the SOB with oak and had a FLAT work surface. Never again.
I BEG anyone building a new bench, if you "must" have tool well, for God's sake, make a detachable one that you can throw in the fire once you've gotten fed up with it. Please DO NOT incorporate a tool well as part of the main bench. At least 50 % of you will regret it! Been there, done that, HATED IT!!!
I made my tool well exactly like Barry suggests - so that I can fill in the gaps and do away with the well. After 5 years, there ain't no chance of me doing without my tool well though Different strokes ;-P
Best of both worlds??
I built my bench top with a 3" thick laminated top. To each side of the basic top, I glued 4" thick dog-hole strips. They stiffen the already stiff 3" thick top considerably. In a sense, I have a 4" apron on either side of my 3" thick top. The extra inch at the bottom gives me the ability to can clamp stuff to the apron, but is doesn't restrict my ability to pass clamps under the bench top in any significant way. I have a "deadman" that I use for working the edges of boards 4' wide or wider, but it's useless for narrow boards. I drilled a line of dog holes in the side of the apron that I use often with a wooden peg as a deadman for working the edges of narrow boards. Here's a photo. Note: My "deadman" is detachable and is not present in this photo.
I swapped the tool tray idea for always having storage under the bench, just as close, but the tools are clean, covered, and I don't have a hog lot on top of my bench.
I said no more when I found chicken bones in mine. There had been a few guys who dropped in, somebody left gifts. *()&6233747
Plus One here, in the It's YOUR bench, build it YOUR way camp. It works only if it works for YOU. Each of us has to build our benches to suit or own needs and likes. That said, it can't be hard to suppose that I agree with the statement made above about not spending a lot of money on a first bench. Build one with whatever ya got. Use it for a few years, discover what you like and what ya don't like, and when time/space/money allow, either upgrade your existing bench or build one with features you know you like.
Also agreeing that I ain't buildin' no bench 'cause some guy on a TV show, on YooToob or in a magazine SAYS it's the "right" one to use….. Some of the BEST benches I've seen are either variations of some presently known "name type" of bench, or a marriage of a few of the different styles.
Showing my age and firmly believing "It's your thing, do what ya wanna do, I can't tell you, who to sock it to….."
Another in the do what you want its your bench camp. I have aprons and a tool well. I refuse to use a bench without a tool well. The apron is used with dogs or hold fasts to clamp long stock for jointing.
I built it with inexpensive dimensional lumber and I'm glad I did because its been in service a mere 3 yrs and getting close to retirement. It doubled as outfeed support in my old one car garage shop and is too short both in width and height. My next bench will take things I learned from this one but also be made with whatever inexpensive lumber I can get.
Maybe bench number 3 will get fancy. By then I should have nearly all my likes and dislikes worked out.
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