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How to make cast iron table saw router table extension fit?

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Forum topic by nickbatz posted 05-07-2021 10:07 PM 1064 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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nickbatz

752 posts in 1199 days


05-07-2021 10:07 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw

I have the cast iron table top from this router table (also the stand, but never mind):

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_table_2.html

It isn’t exactly the right size to take the place of one of my Craftsman 315.22830’s table saw extension wings, but making it fit isn’t a complicated engineering problem (i.e. I’d just add some wood).

My question is how to attach it. I can drill and tap holes in the right places to line up with the cast iron table in my saw, but will attaching it the same way the steel ones are attached work – or will it just fall down? They’re just held in place with bolts along their inside edges + a little extra support from the fence rails.

This thread has a picture of a different Craftsman table saw (scroll down a little) – mine doesn’t have the iron wings with cutouts – but it’s the same idea:

https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/36079

TIA


14 replies so far

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nickbatz

752 posts in 1199 days


#1 posted 05-07-2021 10:11 PM

This is a different (older) table saw and the cast iron extension wings aren’t solid, but the left wing seems to be attached by bolts only and it works.

Is that an optical illusion?

https://cdn.globalauctionplatform.com/e1639456-c32c-4fe1-8a01-a4fe01441853/9a0070f6-7168-4b11-89e0-8ce2ea139d76/original.jpg

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Bob5103

212 posts in 1952 days


#2 posted 05-07-2021 11:57 PM

When I had my cast iron router table in the table saw I used 2 adjustable legs on the out board side. Looks like Grizzly sells the sells the legs

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bigJohninvegas

1043 posts in 2581 days


#3 posted 05-08-2021 12:34 AM

So I added a cast iron router table to my Ridgid r4512. Pretty easy actually.
The cast iron top on your saw should already be tapped, while the stamped steel wings have holes drilled.
I just drilled the cast iron wing to match the holes in my saw. and also dilled the router wing to match the rails on my fence. So the router wing is attached on 3 sides.
Most table saws are 27” deep. The MLCS web site shows the top you are using to be 26-7/8”. so you may need a little shim.
Originally I had upgraded the two stamped steel wings and the fence. My one and only blog post covers it.
Then a couple years later I bought a saw stop cast iron router wing, and switched it with one of the earlier cast iron wings.
I have some photos, and thought I had a post on it, but I can not find one. I’m not the best at posting my own projects and such. So apparently I never got around to it. But I do have photos.

https://www.lumberjocks.com/bigJohninvegas/blog

This photo shows lining up the holes in the saw. Cast iron is very easy to drill.
I find most cast wings come with 4 holes, where saw with stamped steel wings only have 3 holes.

I had added a biesemeyer commercial fence with the original wing upgrade. So I have an angle iron rail on front and back. You can see two bolts on front rail. Same on back.
This give plenty of support. No sagging at all. Seven bolts total.
I think if you bolt yours up in the same fashion, it will be fine.
the original fence on my Ridgid saw had a two piece aluminum front rail. I had added a angle iron rail under it because it never stayed straight to begin with. I do feel if I had not upgraded my fence. I could have still attached the cast wing to the factory fence, and had plenty of support.

Finshed

-- John

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nickbatz

752 posts in 1199 days


#4 posted 05-08-2021 01:19 AM

Thanks.

John, what do you use to drill cast iron – any special bits?

Thinking about it, I may be able to support it on the inside using metal strips. Will have to look. The 16” extra on each side might be just enough room.

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nickbatz

752 posts in 1199 days


#5 posted 05-08-2021 01:20 AM

Bob, I have the stand for the table. I’d like to be able to this without using legs, since convenience and saving space are the whole point.

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bigJohninvegas

1043 posts in 2581 days


#6 posted 05-08-2021 01:50 AM



Thanks.

John, what do you use to drill cast iron – any special bits?

Thinking about it, I may be able to support it on the inside using metal strips. Will have to look. The 16” extra on each side might be just enough room.

- nickbatz

Nothing special, any bit for metal will.work fine. Cast iron is a soft metal. Just make sure youbuse a center punch, and be as accurate as possible. I had to over size my holes a little more than I wanted. But with the added bolts in the fence. It has never moved.

-- John

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nickbatz

752 posts in 1199 days


#7 posted 05-08-2021 07:19 PM


Nothing special, any bit for metal will.work fine. Cast iron is a soft metal. Just make sure youbuse a center punch, and be as accurate as possible. I had to over size my holes a little more than I wanted. But with the added bolts in the fence. It has never moved.

- bigJohninvegas

Thanks, will do that.

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WoodenDreams

1317 posts in 1030 days


#8 posted 05-09-2021 07:04 AM

I just added a Grizzly T1244 cast iron router extension wing to my table saw https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-router-table-wing-for-table-saws/t1244

I attached it flush with the front rail and table. It was supposed to be 27” length, same as my table surface (front to back). It was 1/8” shorter, so I used fender washers as spacers to keep the back rail straight. Drilled holes as needed. Cast iron drills easily. If you drill the holes larger than needed for the bolts, it will allow for fine tuning (up or down movement) to get a flat surface. once on, and you match the level to the table surface, use a straight edge to check for flatness. If outer wing is lifted up, loosen up the bolts and add a strip of painters tape to the connecting edge. Will act as a shim to lower or raise the edge of the wing for a level surface.

Adding a cast iron wing to one side, may make your table saw tippy. You may need to add a leg or two. Legs are available as Bob5103 says. You can make your own legs with wood

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MPython

366 posts in 931 days


#9 posted 05-09-2021 05:30 PM

My cast iron extension table attachment is similar to BigJohn’s. I bought a SawStop ICS to replace my Unisaw with the intention to move the the Bench Dog table extension from the Uni to the SawStop. There were two problems with that plan: The SawStop table is 3” wider than the Uni’s table and the mounting holes in the Bench Dog extension table didn’t line up with the mounting holes in the SawStop. I marked the location of the holes in the table onto the extension and took it to a local machine shop and had them mill new holes to match the SawStop mounting holes. The milling was not as clean as I’d hoped and it left me with what appeared to be a pretty flimsy mounting bracket on the table extension. I was able to secure it solidly to the SawStop table with bolts and some large washers.
The 27” wide extension left 1 1/2” gaps on either end when mounted to the SawStop and I was unable to secure it to the SawStop’s heavy angle iron fence rails. I used it that way for a couple of months without issue, but I was afraid the compromised mounting bracket in the extension would eventually fail. I filled the gaps with some heavy (1/4” thick) extruded aluminum square tube and secured the ends of the extension to the tube and the tube to the saw’s fence rails with large threaded machine screws. The result is a rock solid assembly that has withstood a lot of use and weight over the last 4 or 5 years. I’m not sure if the extension table would have endured had I not secured it to the fence rails. Here’s a photo, FWIW:

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bigJohninvegas

1043 posts in 2581 days


#10 posted 05-09-2021 06:24 PM



I just added a Grizzly T1244 cast iron router extension wing to my table saw https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-router-table-wing-for-table-saws/t1244

I attached it flush with the front rail and table. It was supposed to be 27” length, same as my table surface (front to back). It was 1/8” shorter, so I used fender washers as spacers to keep the back rail straight. Drilled holes as needed. Cast iron drills easily. If you drill the holes larger than needed for the bolts, it will allow for fine tuning (up or down movement) to get a flat surface. once on, and you match the level to the table surface, use a straight edge to check for flatness. If outer wing is lifted up, loosen up the bolts and add a strip of painters tape to the connecting edge. Will act as a shim to lower or raise the edge of the wing for a level surface.

Adding a cast iron wing to one side, may make your table saw tippy. You may need to add a leg or two. Legs are available as Bob5103 says. You can make your own legs with wood

- WoodenDreams

Using fender washers for shims is a great idea. I was going to suggest shimming the back side and setting the table flush with the front. I was lucky in that the saw stop wing was a true 27” wing.
and I like your idea of using a strip of tape as a shim if needed. I got lucky there too, and did not need any shimming. I did have some angle iron from the original fence. I you look at the blog post link in my earlier comment you will see photos of the angle iron I used it when installing the wings. clamped it to the saw top. I was working alone, and very hard to handle the heavy wing and start the bolts at the same time. So I loosely clamped the wings to the angle iron to get the bolts started. Then tightened all the clamps just before I snugged all the bolts tight.

My question is how to attach it. I can drill and tap holes in the right places to line up with the cast iron table in my saw, but will attaching it the same way the steel ones are attached work – or will it just fall down? They re just held in place with bolts along their inside edges + a little extra support from the fence rails.

This thread has a picture of a different Craftsman table saw (scroll down a little) – mine doesn t have the iron wings with cutouts – but it s the same idea:

https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/36079

TIA

- nickbatz

Nick, I looked up the model number on your saw and did not find it. and you mentioned the saw shown in the link was not the same saw. Is your saw an older model? they made a saw that was pretty much a clone to my ridgid R4512 saw.
If you look at the photos I posted. You can see the hole in my table at far right. When I upgraded to the 52” fence, I added my router lift there. even without the lift, the saw would have been tippy with the long rails. and it came with legs just because of that. With the long rails, my saw became the only tool in my shop to be in a fixed location. Although the mobile base will still pick it up, but you have to control it from the right end. (That end stays on the ground now until you go and handle it)
Before the long fence, it was a 36” factory set up. I did have the router lift in a home made extension on the right side, that only stuck out about 3”. when the saw was on the ground, no mobile base in use. It was as solid as a rock. No legs needed, but when you pick it up to move it. It would sit ok, but I had to drive it around from that right side. It would try to tip if you were moving it without controlling it from that end. So be aware of that.
Once I added the long rails, and my saw became a stationary tool. The lift no longer worked in that end with my shop set up. Did not see it when I set it up that way. So when I went with the cast iron router wing. I was planning to put it on the left as it is now. But that came with a huge challenge. the motor housing sticks out, and just barely clears the router itself. And I had to cut a fine out of the vent to bolt the wing up. Such a tight fit that I had to build a custom allen wrench tool to get it done.
I have no idea what the under side of that MLCS table looks like. The support ribs are different on them all. But the opening for my router lift made the center hole almost imposable.

a socket would not work,

And with the housing sticking out, and regular hex bolt was and issue too.
so I cut a fin out of the motor housing, and cut a allen wrench.

I’m not sure the name of this little wrench I used. Barrowed it from a mechanic at work. I was able to fit the cut off allen into it, and tighten that bolt from inside the saw.

So with it all done, the router barely clears, and the right side was out of the question too. Blade tilt handle is located there and sticks out farther that the motor housing does on the left.

-- John

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darthford

738 posts in 3043 days


#11 posted 05-09-2021 07:08 PM


I bought a SawStop ICS to replace my Unisaw
- MPython

Apologies for the off topic question but how do you like your ICS? I’m in the process of assembling mine today.

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nickbatz

752 posts in 1199 days


#12 posted 05-09-2021 10:29 PM

Nick, I looked up the model number on your saw and did not find it. and you mentioned the saw shown in the link was not the same saw. Is your saw an older model? they made a saw that was pretty much a clone to my ridgid R4512 saw.
If you look at the photos I posted. You can see the hole in my table at far right.
- bigJohninvegas

Thanks very much, John.

My Craftsman 315.22830 is the same as a Ridgid saw, not really a clone but a different brand on a saw made in the same factory.

Manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1174763/Craftsman-315-228310.html

This is a picture online, not my saw, but it appears to be the same (other than mine being in greeat shape and having a Ridgid Herc-U-Lift – further evidence that it’s the same saw!):

https://ebth-com-production.imgix.net/2016/12/14/14/53/32/a84a64eb-8c33-4348-b789-8ee40dc7b306/IMG_6808.JPG?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&w=880&h=906&fit=crop&crop=

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nickbatz

752 posts in 1199 days


#13 posted 05-09-2021 10:35 PM

The Ridgid 4512 is a newer version. Mine doesn’t have a riving knife, although I do have an insert plate with a fin that does the same thing.

Also, my saw is limited to 24” to the right of the blade (unless I slide the rail to the right, which I should do, and then get a stick-on ruler to replace the stock one). It looks like that Ridgid saw goes out farther.

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MPython

366 posts in 931 days


#14 posted 05-10-2021 03:27 PM


I bought a SawStop ICS to replace my Unisaw
- MPython

Apologies for the off topic question but how do you like your ICS? I m in the process of assembling mine today.

- darthford

I love my ICS. I had a Unisaw for years before I decided to switch to the ICS. The Uni is a great saw; but, IMHO, the ICS is better in almost every category. The only thing I miss about the Uni is the Unifence.

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