When do you want us to swap from calling you Duck, to Stumpy? Before or after?
I sincerely hope that doesn't happen, but your odds of it are much higher than mine if we spent the same amount of time running a TS. I would have to literally pick up my guard, and then put my hand into the blade. You only need a moments distraction, the blade is already in the "cut me" position.
The Betterley is ok but I'm averse to screwing in inserts. What I'm looking for is the throats size of a sawstop maybe I can adapt to fit my Jet.
WADR, there are no absolutes about guards. The first thing I did 21 years ago was remove the crappy guard from my saw. Keeping you hands away from the blade doesn't require a guard, proper use of push blocks, obeying the 4" rule are important,
Believe me, there are more ways to get hurt in a table saw, and other ways to cut a finger off. We have to have our guard up ;-). Some of the worst cuts I've gotten are from hand tools.
That said, if I were buying a saw today no question it would be a saw stop.
Where, when, how? I try not to deliberately show bad practices and will eagerly stand corrected.
I don't show many of the safety features I depend on as in my pictures and videos as I'm not a multi-tasking non-male, and have to be the camera man.
However, that can lead to complacency.
If you are referring to my "lack of guard", what came with my saw was more dangerous with than without… but only if I wanted to feed timber through it.
I agree with Duck. The guard that came with my Craftsman contractor saw made it a more dangerous machine. I built myself a really nice blade cover for my Unisaw, mostly for dust collection, but when I use it, I just can't see what I'm doing. Don't use it very much as a result. Safe practices are better than gimmick guards. Just my opinion. Jim
Thanks R...
Playing devils advocate… Screws in MDF is a no-no (and when it comes to timber, I'm one of those fake MDF guys), however, I have had great success in solids using The Wood Whisperers threaders\... they have a better tolerance than standard taps in wood… I don't think he sells them anymore but a WEB search will reveal suppliers.
Now I'm not saying go and screw it, but I'm saying, don't totally "go screw it"!
... Safe practices are better than gimmick guards…
- Jim2020
I use a lot of gimmicks to assist in safety…
For sheet goods my Jess_em spring into action (pun intended),
a MJ SPlitter is an integral part of all my ZCI's ('cept dados/coves)
not as good as a riving knife, but serves it's purpose.
Push sticks for the choice of timbers,
and push blocks for in-between,
as my safety guard was off more than on, I made the decision to leave it off entirely and take alternative measures… including a Trend face mask for cutting MDF…
not just cutting grass (modestly)... usually (unless making bloody videos).
I use the lee craft plates. They come in zero, and dado. My Ridgid R4512 came with a thin metal throat plate. so using the leecraft plates caused me to have to readjust the leveling screws. So I opened a zero plate to give it the opening like the factory throat plate. That makes it so I could use it for miters too.
Robert, I'm not sure why you want the SS throat dimensions, but here they are (I measured my Colliflower plate instead of the saw throat) 15 7/8" long x 4 1/2" wide. The radius of the arc appears to be (as best my aging eyes can see) 2 5/32". I'm sure this won't fit the Jet if that was the thought.
Sliding ZCIs are not for me, I find the 5 inserts I have serve the purpose, faster, easier and no loose parts. Fewer pieces to keep up with.
My ZCIs are Vertical, 45 degree, less than 45, and dato. Somewhere the one that came with the saw as a pattern if I need to make another.
Like LBD I use the MJ splitter, Grippers, and other push sticks Haven't used the factory blade guard for 40 years.
The joy of your own shop is getting to do things your way, right or wrong. What works for each is his own.
Robert, I m not sure why you want the SS throat dimensions, but here they are (I measured my Colliflower plate instead of the saw throat) 15 7/8" long x 4 1/2" wide. The radius of the arc appears to be (as best my aging eyes can see) 2 5/32". I m sure this won t fit the Jet if that was the thought.
Yeah, way too big, my thinking was if it was close aluminum can be routed.
I made some using QS oak for the throat plate and a dovetail slot, but you never know one day to the next if it will slide out or need to be hammered out. I have a phenolic plate I could use, but I'm too scared of screwing it up.
There's a guy somewhere who makes the things out of aluminum.
He makes what you describe for the Delta 725/5000 series saws (lucky for me that's what I have). Not sure how the dimensions would compare to the Jet. But, maybe he'll make you one if you can get them to him? I believe he's looking to expand his business beyond the Delta saws. Worth a shot.
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