I am trying to build a custom desk to take advantage of a space's existing features. I asked a local woodshop that specializes in custom cuts and they said they could not do the interior cut in the middle. They are saying it's because it requires a jigsaw which they don't use.
I'm looking for advice on which power tool I should purchase to do the cut myself after they do the rest. I have a large outdoor space with a big table that I can work on, but I have never done any woodcutting before. Is this this even feasible for a beginner?
$50 trim router with a $25 router bit from Align Carbide will get you very clean results. 3/4" birch, I would make 3 passes with a compression bit (again: Align Carbide) so that I get a clean cut on both the top and bottom of the birch with a minimum of tear-out. First pass at 1/4", second at 1/2", third at just-over 3/4".
You could also get yourself a jig saw. Whichever tool you use, use guides so your cuts are straight. You can clamp or use double face tape to attach the guides (straight pieces of wood or whatever),
I would avoid double-stick tape. Too many times the vibrations have kicked the edge guide loose when attached with double-stick tape, causing the cut to veer-off and ruin a perfectly straight cut. Clamps for the win.
I would avoid double-stick tape. Too many times the vibrations have kicked the edge guide loose when attached with double-stick tape, causing the cut to veer-off and ruin a perfectly straight cut. Clamps for the win.
Scotch Double Sided tape is what is referred to as "double stick tape" because it sticks on both sides.
I use it (and 3M carpet tape) to hold down pieces that I am cutting quite often, but every time I've tried to use it for holding down an edge guide, they have failed. I don't have much faith in any double sided tape when it comes to edge guides.
Router will leave rounded corners, if that is ok, then it can make the smoothest cut. If it needs squared corners a jigsaw will do that. I personally would use the router till the corners, then jigsaw.
Do you have a router? If you want to be exact and cut down on the chance of a boo boo I'd make a template out of 1/2" or 1/4" mdf then use a pattern bit to finish it off. You can always use a chisel to square the corners if need be.
With your experience it would be best to just buy a jig saw and hand cut it.
I've always used the Bosch's so I can't recommend anything else,
but for what you're doing and how much you will use it,
I would just buy a mid priced jig saw. something like this would do.
Design around such a funky piece.
Otherwise, there are 1001 different ways to cut it.
Pick the one you are comfortable with.
For me, that is the industrial CNC machine out in the shop and about a 25 second program.
That said, I would still design my piece to avoid needing a strange shape like this.
Odds are pretty good you can get the exact same look without this complication.
My $0.02 FWIW
How are you going to source an 8'3" piece out of 8' plywood? I suppose you could cut on the diagonal but the grain would look funny. 10' plywood is manufactured but I'm not sure you'll be able to get it.
There's a way around this by using something like dowels to join up 4 pieces around the middle section. Dowels can produce the flushest joints but jigs vary so if you go this route a further inquiry into what jig to use would be necessary.
With your experience it would be best to just buy a jig saw and hand cut it.
I ve always used the Bosch s so I can t recommend anything else,
but for what you re doing and how much you will use it,
I would just buy a mid priced jig saw. something like this would do.
+1
Now may not be the time for him (or her) to learn a new skill with a router.
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Talk to a cabinet shop with a CNC router. Piece of cake. And they can get 10' ply. I use it all the time for cabinets.
And if making the inside corners square is a problem, tell them to center a small drill bit (5mm) right on the corner to relieve the corner before making the perimeter cut.
I would avoid double-stick tape. Too many times the vibrations have kicked the edge guide loose when attached with double-stick tape, causing the cut to veer-off and ruin a perfectly straight cut. Clamps for the win.
I've made videos for comedic value before (just released this one today)
Depends on the plywood. I have some nice cherry ply where each ply is rather thick as-is the veneer.
However, if it's shoddy ply, then perhaps a coping saw.
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