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I got a new throat plate, lil problem tho.

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Forum topic by Searb posted 04-18-2021 04:52 PM 802 views 0 times favorited 25 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Searb

38 posts in 205 days


04-18-2021 04:52 PM

Its like 2mm too tall. It sits nice and flat, its just too damn tall. What should I do?? I have some glass with sand paper glued to it. Should I just start sanding it? It had four screws in it that I cant even really use because its already too tall. Rockler said it would work for my saw =[


25 replies so far

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

1872 posts in 2736 days


#1 posted 04-18-2021 05:07 PM

Don’t sand the top, sand/route/dado/chisel, chew the bottom far enough the screws set the height.

Leecraft? Ones for my Ridgid were perfect. As they did not have one for my Harvey, I modified a PM66 plate.

Which saw do you have and what plate did they send?

View dbw's profile

dbw

548 posts in 2723 days


#2 posted 04-18-2021 06:37 PM

tvrgeek is correct.

-- Woodworking is like a vicious cycle. The more tools you buy the more you find to buy.

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Madmark2

2674 posts in 1675 days


#3 posted 04-18-2021 06:45 PM

Are the levelers all the way down? Clear of sawdust?

Are the levelers on the saw or ZCI? Some levelers work backwards, try running them to the other end.

Is it hitting the blade? Is the blade full down? Try removing it and see if its still high? Is it hitting a splitter or riving knife mount.

Does it sit steady or rock? If it rocks, what on?

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

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Searb

38 posts in 205 days


#4 posted 04-18-2021 07:00 PM

Its a craftsman 113.298032

Everything is clean. I cleaned the inside edges of the throat plate receiver. Its from rockler, its blue, etc. If I chip away at the bottom wont that make it no longer sit flush with the bottom??

http://postimage.cc/CRFBV4zF

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Searb

38 posts in 205 days


#5 posted 04-18-2021 07:02 PM

http://postimage.cc/Lh3gQ78y
I took a Dremel to the inside of it to make room for the blade. The blade is all the way down. The screws are not poking through the bottom of the plate, they not touching at all. If I lower them or raise them it wont make a difference, they in a neutral position.

View Foghorn's profile

Foghorn

1218 posts in 473 days


#6 posted 04-18-2021 07:15 PM

Neither of those image links work for me.

-- Darrel

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

1872 posts in 2736 days


#7 posted 04-18-2021 07:19 PM

The plate should be sitting on the leveling screws.

View 18wheelznwood's profile

18wheelznwood

143 posts in 116 days


#8 posted 04-18-2021 07:37 PM

I’m looking at a Rockler throat plate for my Craftsman table saw right now. Try measuring the thickness of the top lip of the plate with the depth of the throat itself.

My plate sits below the top of the table. If it doesn’t, you’ll need to remove some of the plastic so it will sit flush or slightly below the table top. Hopefully this will work.

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18wheelznwood

143 posts in 116 days


#9 posted 04-18-2021 07:46 PM

Maybe use a 3/8” rabbetting bit on a router table to remove the material from the plate
Be sure to remove al the adjustment screws from the plate before trimming it.

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Foghorn

1218 posts in 473 days


#10 posted 04-18-2021 08:08 PM



Maybe use a 3/8” rabbetting bit on a router table to remove the material from the plate
Be sure to remove al the adjustment screws from the plate before trimming it.

- 18wheelznwood


A straight bit and split fence on the table works fine as well.

-- Darrel

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

3549 posts in 4031 days


#11 posted 04-18-2021 09:19 PM

A lot of us have boxes of plates so we can use them for 22-1/2’s, 45’s, 90’s, thick kerf, think kerf, dado and so on.

It’s worth buying a good pattern or template bit for this purpose. Especially since the bit cost about the same as a single after market plate.

Mine are made from anything I can get my hands on. Several are Corian. A few are plywood and so on. They fit tight enough they just press in place. If they don’t, I add a bit of painters tape and, interestingly enough, it’s lasted a few years.

Some of mine have screws in the bottom to allow me to raise and lower them. Others are just sanded or planed to height.

If wood won’t catch on the plate going over it, or dip, leveling screws are not a must.

My job site saw was a lot more “fun” to make plates for, since the “experts” who designed it didn’t think about simplicity with regard to insuring safety that comes with zero clearance plates.

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

7702 posts in 1661 days


#12 posted 04-18-2021 09:46 PM

If you have one some 100 grit on a belt sander and about 20 seconds should do 2mm. Back the screws all the way out first, in case you get 3 mm. Just keep it flat to the platen.

Or tell Rockler it doesn’t fit your saw, and return it.

-- Think safe, be safe

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MrUnix

8567 posts in 3286 days


#13 posted 04-19-2021 12:26 AM

It should be what you asked for… it is not… send it back and either find another source for the correct plate or make your own.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View LittleBlackDuck's profile

LittleBlackDuck

7076 posts in 1907 days


#14 posted 04-19-2021 03:14 AM

Another alternative is to make your own… Use the original plate as a template with a router following bit….

If you are serious about woodworking, the chances are you’ll probably need a swag of different ZCI’s for things like box joint blades, thin kerf, dado….

I am lucky to have access to a laser to cut on demand, however, a follower router bit will help… You may need to thickness according to your TS support edge.

Fender washers are a good way to secure the back of the plate

(front usually has screw).

Maybe worth while to look into the MJ Splitter.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

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therealSteveN

7702 posts in 1661 days


#15 posted 04-19-2021 03:52 AM

Best use of 1/2” MDF I have found.

-- Think safe, be safe

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