LumberJocks

Cabinet design

  • Advertise with us

« back to Designing Woodworking Projects forum

Forum topic by TEK73 posted 04-17-2021 05:04 PM 460 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View TEK73's profile

TEK73

334 posts in 788 days


04-17-2021 05:04 PM

Hi

My daughter has requested me to make this for her.

She want it painted white and with a backplate.

I do have the equipment to make this, both from mdf, plywood, softwood and hardwood – but I have not made this kind of furnitures before.

So I wondered if someone could share some knowlege and advice on:
- recommended material (mdf, ply, softwood or hardwood)
- joinery – where to create joints and type of joints, so basically how to construct it
- thickness of shelds so that I avoid sag

-- It’s good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end. - Ursula K. LeGuin


10 replies so far

View SMP's profile

SMP

3975 posts in 987 days


#1 posted 04-17-2021 05:18 PM

I would do 3/4” ply and hardwood/poplar face frame. Do you have a dado blade or dado setup for a router table?

View Axis39's profile

Axis39

482 posts in 678 days


#2 posted 04-17-2021 05:21 PM

My advice would be to use 3/4 plywood of some kind. Sanded ply should hold up well enough and you will be able to get wide enough pieces without spending a fortune. You could also cut off thin strips of a wood like poplar or maple to protect (and pretty up) the edges of the plywood.

Rabbets or rebates in the corners to give a little extra glue surface and help square things. Then, dados and grooves in sides and shelves to seat the pieces perpendicular. Also, it’s always best to set the back panel into a rabbet around the back edges to help stiffen and keep things square.

If you felt you needed it, you could reinforce the joints with screws (and plugs to hide the heads) or dowels. But, I honestly don’t think you’ll need it if your joints are tight and you use good quality glue.

-- John F. SoCal transplant, chewer uppper of good wood

View Madmark2's profile (online now)

Madmark2

2651 posts in 1669 days


#3 posted 04-17-2021 05:33 PM

3/4” ply (~19mm) in dados.

1/4” ply (~6mm) back.

Glue.

Google “sagulator” to compute sag for lots of materials & spans.

Good luck!

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

View Loren's profile

Loren

11192 posts in 4729 days


#4 posted 04-17-2021 05:43 PM

Unless you have a lot of clamps you’ll need to use screws or nails to assemble the case around the interior partitions. This sort of thing is a good prospect for biscuit joinery, tongue and groove, or dados.

View SMP's profile

SMP

3975 posts in 987 days


#5 posted 04-17-2021 05:55 PM



Unless you have a lot of clamps you ll need to use screws or nails to assemble the case around the interior partitions. This sort of thing is a good prospect for biscuit joinery, tongue and groove, or dados.

- Loren

Personally I usually use dados, glue and an air nailer. Kind of depends on what tools the OP has available.

View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

2106 posts in 683 days


#6 posted 04-17-2021 07:32 PM

You should also know what is going to be put in it. If it is 100% books you may need to make it stronger vs a display shelf.

View darthford's profile

darthford

703 posts in 3005 days


#7 posted 04-17-2021 08:35 PM

Knowing how women like to nest and move furniture around what about building the three sizes separately so she can rearrange and stack them differently. Obviously with some kind of dowel or locking together schema.

View xedos's profile

xedos

285 posts in 382 days


#8 posted 04-18-2021 12:49 PM

Before you start , you may want to think about your finish strategy.

How are you going to paint this ? Or will it be white melamine ?

Brush, roller, spray ? Solvent or waterbase ?

Before or after assembly ?

Might also want some leveling feet in you design.

View mawilsonWCR's profile (online now)

mawilsonWCR

31 posts in 82 days


#9 posted 04-23-2021 11:40 PM


Might also want some leveling feet in you design.

Or a toe kick.

19mm (23/32”) plywood shelf across 460mm (~18”) unsupported should handle most things you might put on it.

As others have said, dadoes, rabbets, glue and brads to assemble.

455mm (17.9”) seems a bit deep. Things will tend to get pushed to the back

-- No trees were harmed while sending this message; however, a rather large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.

View Bstrom's profile

Bstrom

359 posts in 255 days


#10 posted 04-24-2021 01:47 AM


Might also want some leveling feet in you design.
Or a toe kick.

19mm (23/32”) plywood shelf across 460mm (~18”) unsupported should handle most things you might put on it.

As others have said, dadoes, rabbets, glue and brads to assemble.

455mm (17.9”) seems a bit deep. Things will tend to get pushed to the back

- mawilsonWCR


Yes! the toe kick will require a design adjustment but be invaluable treating this as a furniture piece. I’m not a big fan of painting that which will receive wear and tear from books and other objects. I prefer a more durable finish, bit then, you might be able to add a white pigment to an oil based finish that will accomplish both appearance and durability. Just sayin’…

-- Bstrom

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com