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Cabinet design

1K views 10 replies 10 participants last post by  Bstrom 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi

My daughter has requested me to make this for her.

Rectangle Parallel Drawing Plan Pattern


She want it painted white and with a backplate.

I do have the equipment to make this, both from mdf, plywood, softwood and hardwood - but I have not made this kind of furnitures before.

So I wondered if someone could share some knowlege and advice on:
- recommended material (mdf, ply, softwood or hardwood)
- joinery - where to create joints and type of joints, so basically how to construct it
- thickness of shelds so that I avoid sag
 

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#3 ·
My advice would be to use 3/4 plywood of some kind. Sanded ply should hold up well enough and you will be able to get wide enough pieces without spending a fortune. You could also cut off thin strips of a wood like poplar or maple to protect (and pretty up) the edges of the plywood.

Rabbets or rebates in the corners to give a little extra glue surface and help square things. Then, dados and grooves in sides and shelves to seat the pieces perpendicular. Also, it's always best to set the back panel into a rabbet around the back edges to help stiffen and keep things square.

If you felt you needed it, you could reinforce the joints with screws (and plugs to hide the heads) or dowels. But, I honestly don't think you'll need it if your joints are tight and you use good quality glue.
 
#6 ·
Unless you have a lot of clamps you ll need to use screws or nails to assemble the case around the interior partitions. This sort of thing is a good prospect for biscuit joinery, tongue and groove, or dados.

- Loren
Personally I usually use dados, glue and an air nailer. Kind of depends on what tools the OP has available.
 
#9 ·
Before you start , you may want to think about your finish strategy.

How are you going to paint this ? Or will it be white melamine ?

Brush, roller, spray ? Solvent or waterbase ?

Before or after assembly ?

Might also want some leveling feet in you design.
 
#10 ·
Might also want some leveling feet in you design.
Or a toe kick.

19mm (23/32") plywood shelf across 460mm (~18") unsupported should handle most things you might put on it.

As others have said, dadoes, rabbets, glue and brads to assemble.

455mm (17.9") seems a bit deep. Things will tend to get pushed to the back
 
#11 ·
Might also want some leveling feet in you design.
Or a toe kick.

19mm (23/32") plywood shelf across 460mm (~18") unsupported should handle most things you might put on it.

As others have said, dadoes, rabbets, glue and brads to assemble.

455mm (17.9") seems a bit deep. Things will tend to get pushed to the back

- mawilsonWCR
Yes! the toe kick will require a design adjustment but be invaluable treating this as a furniture piece. I'm not a big fan of painting that which will receive wear and tear from books and other objects. I prefer a more durable finish, bit then, you might be able to add a white pigment to an oil based finish that will accomplish both appearance and durability. Just sayin'…
 
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