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Stripping a guitar. thick clear factory seal coat under the paint is hard as nails!! Is it 2K poly?

3K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  murphybridget837 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Stripping a chinese electric guitar… Squier or Ibanez.
I've been down this road once before and it was hell.
The outer layer of paint comes off pretty easily with a heat gun, but the thick clear seal coat underneath is hard as nails.
thick clear factory seal coat under the paint is hard as nails!!!
A heat gun will basically burn the wood underneath before it loosen the seal coat.
Sanding is tough because electric sanders basically dulls. the paper within a minute. I know that sounds stupid, but after a minute the only part of the guitar getting sanded is the exposed wood parts.
The seal coat just laughs at you.
Then there's acetone… NOPE.
Airplane stripper after 30 minutes ever so slightly softens the very surface enough to scrathc it with a steel brush, but not more.
Citristrip… HAHAHAHAHA!!!

So I am left with hand sanding at 180 grit and cleaning the paper every 30 seconds.
 
#2 ·
I have a feeling it's probably some kind of epoxy….

Used to be Fullerplast, back in the Fender factory.

I'd go a really coarse paper on a random orbit, myself (but I tend to be lazy and reach for bigger hammers every time).
 
#3 ·
Any catalyzed finish coating is not going to be easy to remove, epoxy, polyurethane, CV, etc.

Chemical removal with chemicals available by homeowner is impossible. If you used a professional heated dip tank with chemical strong enough to remove coating, the glue holding the wood together would disintegrate.

If having issues with abrasive removal:
- use largest grit possible (40-80) to break the shiny surface layer, then move one step higher for removal.
- Use a ceramic or zirconium abrasive. Many hard/tough coating mfg add aluminum oxide as filler to improve durability and abrasion resistance of coatings (standard filler in floor coatings). Even with premium aluminum oxide sand paper, the filler ruins sandpaper quickly.
- Use of a mesh disc for sanding with vacuum dust removal will prevent glazing and increase longevity. MIRKA and Norton sell ceramic abrasive mesh disks designed for 'hardened' finish removal.
- Use lots of patience. :(

Best Luck.
 
#7 ·
Any catalyzed finish coating is not going to be easy to remove, epoxy, polyurethane, CV, etc.

Chemical removal with chemicals available by homeowner is impossible. If you used a professional heated dip tank with chemical strong enough to remove coating, the glue holding the wood together would disintegrate.

If having issues with abrasive removal:
  • use largest grit possible (40-80) to break the shiny surface layer, then move one step higher for removal.
  • Use a ceramic or zirconium abrasive. Many hard/tough coating mfg add aluminum oxide as filler to improve durability and abrasion resistance of coatings (standard filler in floor coatings). Even with premium aluminum oxide sand paper, the filler ruins sandpaper quickly.
  • Use of a mesh disc for sanding with vacuum dust removal will prevent glazing and increase longevity. MIRKA and Norton sell ceramic abrasive mesh disks designed for 'hardened' finish removal.
  • Use lots of patience. :(

Best Luck.
That sounds like a real pain to DIY.
 
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