I am at a loss to explain this new behavior with my DeWalt DWS779 SCMS, approximately nine months old. I purchased the Saw due to it's staggering amount of rave reviews.
Initially I had zero issues cutting many many 45 degree bevels in 3/4" pine. The blade is a Diablo (Freud) 100T. Several days ago it took considerable effort to make this cut to the point where smoke was coming from the wood. My concern was that the smoke was originating from the motor but you could clearly see it being sucked from the wood into the dust intake. Rather than a smooth finish you could feel the blade markings about halfway down the six inch wide board as well a single burn mark about one inch long across a six inch piece.
At 90 degrees it cuts a 2×4 like a knife through butter.
With the 3/4" not quite the same at a 30 degree bevel but far better than at 45 degrees.
Thinking that perhaps the blade was for whatever reasons bent and / or a tooth out of whack I returned it to HD and replaced it yesterday with another blade. First few 45 degree bevel cuts were fine. Now just about back to Square One with the smoke.
I am neither hearing nor feeling the Saw bog down. Rather than force the cut I am letting the blade do the work (as I have in the past, no issues) but I'm wondering if this is where the problem lay. The lumber is, near as I can tell, both dry and not warped. Blade is 45 degrees to table.
Is the throat plate down below the table level? I had that problem before. A 45 will use this to force close the kerf behind the cut, moreso than a 90 will.
Is the throat plate down below the table level? I had that problem before. A 45 will use this to force close the kerf behind the cut, moreso than a 90 will.
I gave up thinking a miter saw was good for anything past rough carpentry. I have a Ridgid. Compound cuts came out curved. Went to a full kerf and a little better, but I donlt do compound any more. I use a jig and only miter.
smoke when blade's dull. Ultra thin kerfed blade's will wobble. 100 tooth ultra thin blade may not be the best for beveling 2×4's if thats what you're cutting. I see those Dewalt saws as framing/cornice saws, not finish.
Is the throat plate down below the table level? I had that problem before. A 45 will use this to force close the kerf behind the cut, moreso than a 90 will.
- SMP
That I had not checked but will this evening. Also, flush with the table or just below? Thanks for the heads-up!
As flush as possible. This is a good series here, because if the wings are out of plane and the throat plate is even lower, then the issue compounds (no pun intended)
smoke when blade s dull. Ultra thin kerfed blade s will wobble. 100 tooth ultra thin blade may not be the best for beveling 2×4 s if thats what you re cutting. I see those Dewalt saws as framing/cornice saws, not finish.
The blade is brand new. The 2×4 was just a test at 90 degrees.
Thanks!
Lyman
Is the throat plate down below the table level? I had that problem before. A 45 will use this to force close the kerf behind the cut, moreso than a 90 will.
- SMP
That I had not checked but will this evening. Also, flush with the table or just below? Thanks for the heads-up!
I gave up thinking a miter saw was good for anything past rough carpentry. I have a Ridgid. Compound cuts came out curved. Went to a full kerf and a little better, but I donlt do compound any more. I use a jig and only miter.
smoke when blade s dull. Ultra thin kerfed blade s will wobble. 100 tooth ultra thin blade may not be the best for beveling 2×4 s if thats what you re cutting. I see those Dewalt saws as framing/cornice saws, not finish.
- 1thumb
The blade is brand new. The 2×4 was just a test at 90 degrees.
I gave up thinking a miter saw was good for anything past rough carpentry. I have a Ridgid. Compound cuts came out curved. Went to a full kerf and a little better, but I donlt do compound any more. I use a jig and only miter.
I'm not at all, and I have the same saw with the rolling $tand that goes with it. It's as accurate as you position the blade. I love it.
Among many other things, I use it to trim the sides of desktops, up to almost 2X its depth capacity (i.e. cut half way, turn it over and cut the other half). You can't do that on a table saw, and setting up a straight-cutting jig and using the circular saw is a PITA.
And crosscutting 8' long boards (which is how they come from the lumberyard) on a table saw is an even bigger PITA, because in my case I have to move two cars from the driveway to make room.
Something is wrong with yours. I have idea what, but I'd simply take mine to be repaired if I couldn't figure out what was wrong.
tvrgeek must not have this saw. To be fair, other people have posted the same thing. But I don't have any superpowers that allow me to make very accurate cuts on my DW779.
Also, the thin kerf Freud blade doesn't wobble on my saw one iota… but it does flex. So if I turn boards over to cut the other half, I have to be careful not to force the board into it when I'm aligning the second half, or I get a notch where the cuts don't align.
I gave up thinking a miter saw was good for anything past rough carpentry. I have a Ridgid. Compound cuts came out curved. Went to a full kerf and a little better, but I donlt do compound any more. I use a jig and only miter.
- tvrgeek
I m beginning to think along those lines…..
Best,
Lyman
- LGLDSR73
I m not at all, and I have the same saw with the rolling $tand that goes with it. It s as accurate as you position the blade. I love it.
Among many other things, I use it to trim the sides of desktops, up to almost 2X its depth capacity (i.e. cut half way, turn it over and cut the other half). You can t do that on a table saw, and setting up a straight-cutting jig and using the circular saw is a PITA.
And crosscutting 8 long boards (which is how they come from the lumberyard) on a table saw is an even bigger PITA, because in my case I have to move two cars from the driveway to make room.
Something is wrong with yours. I have idea what, but I d simply take mine to be repaired if I couldn t figure out what was wrong.
tvrgeek must not have this saw. To be fair, other people have posted the same thing. But I don t have any superpowers that allow me to make very accurate cuts on my DW779.
I spoke with Freud today about the Thin Kerf 100T 12" Diablo blade and the issues with the 45 degree bevel cuts. The tech was perplexed as well regarding this issue and then he said a full Kerf would be a better way to go. He suggested the Freud LU85R012, a blade that can handle the Bevels and Crosscuts and was designed with that in mind. It is not an inexpensive blade, >$100.00 USD. I ordered one and will see what happens.
I'll let everyone know how it shakes out.
Thanks,
Lyman
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