Freud thin kerf blade on SawStop PCS

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Forum topic by KLF posted 04-14-2021 12:20 AM 482 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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19 posts in 112 days

04-14-2021 12:20 AM

Greetings, I did some searching and can’t find these questions answered, so here we go.

I have been using a Freud 50T LU83R010 Thin Kerf Combo blade in my older Ryobi table saw for years and I was very happy with how it performed in both rip and crosscut modes. I bought a second one right after Christmas in anticipation of several projects this Spring. Well… then I stumbled on a SawStop 3hp PCS for a great price, so I made the upgrade and sold off the Ryobi. Now I have this Freud blade still in the package, unused/unopened, but it’s past the return period for Amazon. Questions:

  • Is there any issue with running this red coated blade in the SawStop? Will it interfere with the safety system?
  • This blade says the kerf is only 0.091” on the package. The riving knife in the SawStop has a kerf range stamped on it that says 0.093” – 0.138”. Looks like this isn’t going to work, regardless of the first question?

The saw came with a Forrest WW2 blade that appears to be very sharp, but I am not impressed with the ripping so far, not very smooth. I haven’t done a proper full re-alignment on the saw yet, however.

Thank you for any advice or feedback.

-- Measure twice, cut once.

11 replies so far

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Craftsman on the lake

3863 posts in 4524 days

#1 posted 04-14-2021 12:37 AM

I can only speak for the coating. Seems that the teeth being uncoated, and that’s what hits your finger, is what is needed, so the painted blade is okay. I did notice that the blade has the occasional kickback tooth or shoulder. I had a freud ice (industrial) blade that I loved. It had the shoulder like this. I ditched it as that tooth is supposed to slow down the firing mechanism of the sawstop. Seems that if that untoothed tooth hits the firing mechanism first it doesn’t dig in and allows one or more teeth to keep rotating (maybe through a finger) before it stops.
It was a hard decision but in the end I decided that buying the saw for safety then thwarting that safety mechanism would be a foolish choice. Sigh…. I really liked that blade.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful.

View Redoak49's profile


5249 posts in 3075 days

#2 posted 04-14-2021 12:40 AM

I use several Freud thin kerf blades on my Sawstop PCS with no problems. I have even had a brake trigger with one and it stopped properly.

View KLF's profile


19 posts in 112 days

#3 posted 04-14-2021 12:56 AM

Thanks for the replies. I guess I was thinking that the safety system replies on a current going from the tooth, through the blade, to the spindle, to complete the circuit. I was just concerned that the coating on the blade would act as an insulator and not allow the circuit to work properly. Maybe it doesn’t work that way.

I’m still thinking I need to pick up a proper rip blade with a flat bottom kerf. Suggestions?

-- Measure twice, cut once.

View Madmark2's profile (online now)


2673 posts in 1675 days

#4 posted 04-14-2021 01:06 AM

Buy the LU83’s while you can. Production is ramping down.

That is a great blade and it cuts like silk both rip & crosscut. The 3/32” kerf is perfect for lexan inserts and resawing.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

View RClark's profile


128 posts in 3272 days

#5 posted 04-14-2021 09:53 AM

Congratulations on finding that saw! You’re going to love it.

I have the PCS; most of my blades are Freud thin kerf blades, including the red teflon coated blades.

- Red coating: No effect on the safety system. Don’t ask me how I know that. (And it wasn’t my finger that came into contact with the blade.)

- Thin kerf: Works with the riving knife, but is not flawless. You’ll be able to detect that tiny leading edge on the riving knife edge as you pass the workpiece through on a ripping cut. Feels almost like the edge of the workpiece hangs on a slight lip on the table. You can file and soften that leading edge of the riving knife slightly without affecting the performance of the riving knife.

- I know that use of the blades with anti-kickback shoulders isn’t recommended by SawStop. I still use those blades. I suppose the theory is that it could slow down the stopping action, but I don’t see that the “slowing effect” could be anything other than very slight. I’d rather have the anti-kickback feature on the blade.

- Forrest WWII blade: I’d run that blade to the sharpening shop and then decide if you like it or not.

I have decided that I will gradually transition my blades over to full kerf blades as my current set of blades is retired. There are a few reasons for that:

—Less chance of blade deflection

—Better heat dissipation on long rips in thick stock

—I don’t have to be concerned about the accuracy of my fence setting measurements if all my blades are the same thickness

-- Ray

View tvrgeek's profile


1872 posts in 2736 days

#6 posted 04-14-2021 10:16 AM

Teeth are not coated, and as long as there is no coating on the arbor hole, you have a circuit.

BUT, kerf width and riving knife thickness is an issue. Doesn’t SS offer a thin kerf knife? Most do. But none I have found offer a thin kerf blade guard. Going to the parts listing, Standard is 2.3 mm, they sell a 2 mm. $15 As 2.3 is .09, that is a bit snug. Get the 2 mm knife is you are gong to run a thin kerf blade.

Anyway, get a decent 24 tooth full kerf rip blade and a 60 or even 80 tooth crosscut blade. Leave those wonder blades behind for those too lazy to change the blade and want a so-so do everything cut. The right blade for the cut does wonders. I like Amana and CMT over Freud. Now you have a “real” saw, get “real ” blades. I run a 60 tooth crosscut for most things.

View CL810's profile


4120 posts in 4075 days

#7 posted 04-14-2021 01:07 PM

To prove to yourself that the blade does not “short circuit” the sawstop technology simply touch the coated area of the blade (obviously while the saw is in the off position) and look at the fault light above the power switch.

-- "The only limits to our realization of tomorrow will be our doubts of today." - FDR

View KLF's profile


19 posts in 112 days

#8 posted 04-14-2021 07:34 PM

I see the 2.0 mm riving knife on the Sawstop site, but it is only for the CB saw, which is the Industrial Cabinet Saw.

I’ll probably go ahead and pop this out of the package and use it, see how it goes with this riving knife. Good tip on the test, I’ll do that. I’ll also do a full re-alignment, then I need to start making jigs and sleds.

-- Measure twice, cut once.

View MPython's profile


358 posts in 899 days

#9 posted 04-15-2021 05:46 PM

I was having problems ripping with my Freud thin kerf Glue Joint rip blade on my SawStop ICS. The riving knife was forcing the workpiece away from, the fence and I was getting rainbow shaped rips. I switched to a full kerf rip blade and the problem went away. I now use only full kerf blades on my saw.

View Dutchy's profile


4103 posts in 3255 days

#10 posted 04-15-2021 08:37 PM

If you have an old thin kerf sawblade maybe this can help.


View tvrgeek's profile


1872 posts in 2736 days

#11 posted 04-15-2021 08:59 PM

If you have an old thin kerf sawblade maybe this can help.

- Dutchy

As Harvey wants a lot for their thin kerf, I have it laid out on an old thin blade. Friend has a plasma cutter to make it easier.

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