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Bad blade?

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Forum topic by GabeV posted 04-08-2021 10:36 PM 619 views 0 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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GabeV

6 posts in 39 days


04-08-2021 10:36 PM

Topic tags/keywords: miter saw blade hardwood question diablo

New to this forum and new to woodworking in general for the past year…. So I just started cutting strips for my first cutting board with my shiny new Diablo 80T miter saw blade on a Ryobi 12” and I’m seeing a pattern:

It only happens on one side. The other side is fairly clean for a big box blade on hard maple I suppose. Is this indicative of a bad blade or maybe bad saw?


23 replies so far

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SMP

3999 posts in 992 days


#1 posted 04-08-2021 10:47 PM

Well depends. It “can” be technique. For example not letting the saw spin up to full speed before cutting and/or pulling the blade completely out of the wood before letting off the trigger. Or, could be a bent tooth etc. Also, 12” blades are more prone to deflection than 10” blades, especially if they are thin kerfz

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WhyMe

1380 posts in 2648 days


#2 posted 04-08-2021 10:52 PM

Are you hand holding the wood or clamping it? Movement of the wood can cause problems.

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GabeV

6 posts in 39 days


#3 posted 04-08-2021 10:59 PM



Are you hand holding the wood or clamping it? Movement of the wood can cause problems.

- WhyMe

I’ve got it clamped down on both sides of the blade. I suppose if it was movement related I would see the problem on both sides?

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GabeV

6 posts in 39 days


#4 posted 04-08-2021 11:00 PM



Well depends. It “can” be technique. For example not letting the saw spin up to full speed before cutting and/or pulling the blade completely out of the wood before letting off the trigger. Or, could be a bent tooth etc. Also, 12” blades are more prone to deflection than 10” blades, especially if they are thin kerfz

- SMP

Thanks for the reply. I do make sure to spin up and wind down. I might just exchange it for a new one to see if I got a bad blade.

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nickbatz

722 posts in 1167 days


#5 posted 04-08-2021 11:45 PM

I don’t see how that could be anything other than a defective blade.

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BurlyBob

8882 posts in 3352 days


#6 posted 04-08-2021 11:51 PM

I’m thinking you stopped mid cut and the blade sat in the same position a little bit to long.

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metolius

397 posts in 1817 days


#7 posted 04-08-2021 11:55 PM

The way the scorching is always in the same spot, I suspect its technique or some binding in the saws arm movement.

Does something always “bump” 2/3rds of the way through each cut ?

-- derek / oregon

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GabeV

6 posts in 39 days


#8 posted 04-09-2021 01:03 AM

Exchanged it for a new one, same model, and I’m getting the same same thing.

Beginning to think it’s the balancing. The saw arm slides smoothly foreword and back. However I changed my technique a bit to go in one smooth nonstop motion from front to back and it looks much better. Thanks BurlyBob! Just the front there slices a bit too much, which is where I start the cut.

How do y’all suggest I make this kind of cut so it’s smoothest? It’s an 8/4 hard maple. Going end grain for the board. Of course I don’t expect the cuts to be all uniform since my neighbors have planers I can use to fix that before assembly. But it’d be good to know to improve handling of the saw.

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pottz

16954 posts in 2071 days


#9 posted 04-09-2021 01:18 AM

i wouldn’t try planing end grain that could be a bad mistake.i wouldn’t clamp both sides either,that could be a problem causing the burning.

-- working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

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GabeV

6 posts in 39 days


#10 posted 04-09-2021 01:34 AM



i wouldn t try planing end grain that could be a bad mistake.i wouldn t clamp both sides either,that could be a problem causing the burning.

- pottz

Thanks for the tip. I just read about it and I see why. I might end up making a router sled then. I don’t have the patience or strength to hand plane this.

View SMP's profile

SMP

3999 posts in 992 days


#11 posted 04-09-2021 01:35 AM

Well, one thing you can try is applying side pressure while pulling and pushing the cut through. First try keeping constant pressure to the right, then next cut try constant pressure to the left. Some cheaper saws have a bit of play/slop in the movement which amplifies as it extends.

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pottz

16954 posts in 2071 days


#12 posted 04-09-2021 01:56 AM



Well, one thing you can try is applying side pressure while pulling and pushing the cut through. First try keeping constant pressure to the right, then next cut try constant pressure to the left. Some cheaper saws have a bit of play/slop in the movement which amplifies as it extends.

- SMP


good point,also dont put too much force on the cut let the blade do the work,youd be surprised how much a blade will deflect and cause a burn.

-- working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

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GabeV

6 posts in 39 days


#13 posted 04-09-2021 01:58 AM

Thanks for the tips! Will try them out.

View LeeRoyMan's profile

LeeRoyMan

1746 posts in 814 days


#14 posted 04-09-2021 02:14 AM

The 12” 80 toothers probably not doing you any favors either. I would switch to a 60 toother.

View Rich's profile

Rich

6851 posts in 1676 days


#15 posted 04-09-2021 03:25 AM


The 12” 80 toothers probably not doing you any favors either. I would switch to a 60 toother.

- LeeRoyMan

That, and it’s a Diablo.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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