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Forum topic by Ynae posted 04-07-2021 01:21 PM 438 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Ynae

8 posts in 38 days


04-07-2021 01:21 PM

Topic tags/keywords: delta unisaw 34-802f 230v 15 amp tablesaw

Just purchased a Delta Unisaw 34-802F. The person I bought it from said it sat for 5 years. Couple things.

1) I can’t get the blade to up. I cleaned the gear as best I can without taking apart. Used WD40. Still won’t turn easy. Just wondering if there’s a lock or what else could be the problem.

2) I know the motor is a 230V but the plug say 125V 20amp. I’m thinking previous owner changed the plug to fit his outlet. But it’s still a 230V. Is this correct?

Thanks if anyone got suggestions.

-- Curtis, Maili Point, Hawaii


12 replies so far

View 2Goober's profile

2Goober

42 posts in 686 days


#1 posted 04-09-2021 12:21 AM

By chance is the center knob tightened. It’s a lock on JET.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8563 posts in 3283 days


#2 posted 04-09-2021 01:22 AM

Yes, there is a lock. Center knob. CCW to unlock. Operating it with the lock engaged will tear things up and cause the lock to stop functioning.

As for power – there is absolutely no way to know without seeing it. You are probably correct though.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Ynae's profile

Ynae

8 posts in 38 days


#3 posted 04-09-2021 04:20 AM

1) I’ve tried everything. There is no locking knob. So I tried removing the turn wheel and the pointer casing to view the bullets used to lock the wheel. Everything looks good. I also tried readjusting the shaft used to raise and lower the blade and it’s still difficult to raise. Lowering is not a problem.

I’ve also used WD40 the moving parts.

Thank you replying. If you have any other suggestions let me know.

-- Curtis, Maili Point, Hawaii

View Ynae's profile

Ynae

8 posts in 38 days


#4 posted 04-09-2021 08:46 AM

1) I’ve tried everything. There is no locking knob. So I tried removing the turn wheel and the pointer casing to view the bullets used to lock the wheel. Everything looks good. I also tried readjusting the shaft used to raise and lower the blade and it’s still difficult to raise. Lowering is not a problem. I’ve also used WD40 the moving parts. Thank you replying. If you have any other suggestions let me know.


Yes, there is a lock. Center knob. CCW to unlock. Operating it with the lock engaged will tear things up and cause the lock to stop functioning.

As for power – there is absolutely no way to know without seeing it. You are probably correct though.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix


-- Curtis, Maili Point, Hawaii

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

1869 posts in 2733 days


#5 posted 04-09-2021 04:23 PM

I doubt some idiot put a 220 outlet with a 110 plug. I would expect the motor was re-wired for 110. Only way to find out is to get to the motor and look at the plate and how it is connected internally. There are some really stupid people out there.

WD-40 is not a penetrating oil. It is not even a very good lube. It can be a pretty good de-gunker but as it turns to goo, it needs to be cleaned off and replaced with a proper lube. ( grease)

It will take more force to raise than lower. Darn gravity. Does the motor swing free? Pull the belts ( you want new Getes AX series belts anyway) and see if it makes a difference.

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

7258 posts in 2805 days


#6 posted 04-09-2021 04:39 PM

Those 230V motors will run on 115V but will take longer to get up to speed and operate with a fraction of the power intended.

Regarding getting the blade to raise up, whatever you do, don’t force it. There’s many parts that could get broken or galled if forced while loced up.

Do you have any pictures you could share, that may allow some of us to help more?

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

7258 posts in 2805 days


#7 posted 04-09-2021 04:49 PM


WD-40 is not a penetrating oil. It is not even a very good lube. It can be a pretty good de-gunker but as it turns to goo, it needs to be cleaned off and replaced with a proper lube. ( grease)

- tvrgeek

The folks at WD-40 might disagree with you, their words: “WD-40® Multi-Use Product lubricates moving parts such as hinges, wheels, rollers, chains, and gears. It protects against rust and corrosion on items like tools, and sporting equipment. It penetrates to free stuck corroded parts like nuts, bolts, valves and locks.”

Composed of somewhere between 30% & 35% petroleum base oil, a product that advertises as penetrating and contains oil sounds a lot like penetrating oil to me.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8563 posts in 3283 days


#8 posted 04-09-2021 05:10 PM

Sounds like it’s time to take the top off and give things a good going over. Would be a great time to replace bearings as well.

If you don’t want to do a complete disassembly, then clean things up as good as possible and use some paraffin wax or dry lube on the worm and arbor bracket gear teeth. The elevation and tilt rods also ride in bronze bushings, and should get a bit of lube, as well as the pivot shaft for the arbor/motor bracket up top.

If it really is stuck hard, it may be that the worm drive gear is jamming the arbor bracket teeth, either due to misalignment or a roll-pin that has fallen out letting it move. Once you get in there, it should be a fairly simple task to figure out what is going on.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View sjsester's profile

sjsester

1 post in 36 days


#9 posted 04-09-2021 05:44 PM

I have this same model saw and mine is a 3h 220V motor. I’ve taken the table off and had it reground and cleaned up the mechanism; I’m sure that you’ll find the problem when you get in there.

Here are some other things that I learned about this machine as I worked on it. It can be a bear to get the miter slot perfectly aligned with the blade when you reassemble. The source of my difficulties were that I did not have a calibration disk; I was using a new blade (from a big box store). The blade had several thousands of an inch of wobble in it and that made it very difficult to align.

I ended up buying a Forrest WW2 full kerf blade and set it up with that and all is good. I cannot say enough good about the Forrest blade that I bought and the expertise of their tech support. I also replaced my arbor and bearings, to try to improve the cut quality, but I was still having some issues. Forrest Tech Support recommended that I remove 2 of the 3 belts to reduce vibration; that really worked and I highly recommend it unless you need the extra power transmitted by the multiple belts.

Good luck, sjs

View Ynae's profile

Ynae

8 posts in 38 days


#10 posted 04-11-2021 07:16 AM


I bought this unisaw with no locking knob.

I sprayed WD40 into the pivoting points.

Table top removed.

Because I don’t have a locking knob, I took off the pointer case to expose the locking bullets. I put the wheel back on and tried raising, it was still difficult to raise.

-- Curtis, Maili Point, Hawaii

View Ynae's profile

Ynae

8 posts in 38 days


#11 posted 04-11-2021 07:19 AM

I adjusted this nut and collar on the elevation shaft by moving it further out. It helped a little but about the last inch it becomes difficult to raise.

-- Curtis, Maili Point, Hawaii

View Ynae's profile

Ynae

8 posts in 38 days


#12 posted 04-11-2021 08:04 AM

It seems the worm gear and arbor teeth is jamming when elevating.

Question how do I fix this?


I have this same model saw and mine is a 3h 220V motor. I ve taken the table off and had it reground and cleaned up the mechanism; I m sure that you ll find the problem when you get in there.

Here are some other things that I learned about this machine as I worked on it. It can be a bear to get the miter slot perfectly aligned with the blade when you reassemble. The source of my difficulties were that I did not have a calibration disk; I was using a new blade (from a big box store). The blade had several thousands of an inch of wobble in it and that made it very difficult to align.

I ended up buying a Forrest WW2 full kerf blade and set it up with that and all is good. I cannot say enough good about the Forrest blade that I bought and the expertise of their tech support. I also replaced my arbor and bearings, to try to improve the cut quality, but I was still having some issues. Forrest Tech Support recommended that I remove 2 of the 3 belts to reduce vibration; that really worked and I highly recommend it unless you need the extra power transmitted by the multiple belts.

Good luck, sjs

- sjsester


Sounds like it s time to take the top off and give things a good going over. Would be a great time to replace bearings as well.

If you don t want to do a complete disassembly, then clean things up as good as possible and use some paraffin wax or dry lube on the worm and arbor bracket gear teeth. The elevation and tilt rods also ride in bronze bushings, and should get a bit of lube, as well as the pivot shaft for the arbor/motor bracket up top.

If it really is stuck hard, it may be that the worm drive gear is jamming the arbor bracket teeth, either due to misalignment or a roll-pin that has fallen out letting it move. Once you get in there, it should be a fairly simple task to figure out what is going on.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix


Yes, there is a lock. Center knob. CCW to unlock. Operating it with the lock engaged will tear things up and cause the lock to stop functioning.

As for power – there is absolutely no way to know without seeing it. You are probably correct though.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix


-- Curtis, Maili Point, Hawaii

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