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Forum topic by BB1 posted 04-01-2021 02:22 PM 493 views 0 times favorited 37 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BB1

2134 posts in 1926 days


04-01-2021 02:22 PM

The cherry table top is cut into a circle (48 inch diameter) and will be getting metal legs. I want to add an apron to give it a “thicker” look. This will be square. I’ve been thinking of using figure 8 fixtures (as I think I have some left over from another project) or making wooden connectors to connect the apron to the top.

One question is on ideas of how to connect the sides of the apron. Thought about just butt joints, but that seems “too simple.” Also thought about doing a dado.

Other question is on a durable finish. Prefer water based and have been thinking of using General Finishes High Performance. I also looked at EnduroVar by GF. Thanks!


37 replies so far

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Jim Jakosh

26189 posts in 4184 days


#1 posted 04-01-2021 02:54 PM

I’d bevel the corners of the apron and maybe add splines to dress up the apron. The figure 8 connectors will be a good thing for expansion.

I’d finish the top with oil base poly..about 3-4 coats and wet sanding in between. No matter what you use, the cherry will naturally darken when exposed to light. That is the beauty of that wood.

cheers, Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

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Lazyman

6975 posts in 2465 days


#2 posted 04-01-2021 03:22 PM

By sides of the apron, I assume that you are talking about the corner joints between the 4 sides? If you use a butt joint or a rabbet that shows end grain, it just won’t look right, IMO. I think that a miter joint will look the best. A spline is not a bad idea, though probably not necessary since they are not really structural joints, but a spline will help make sure that they don’t open up later.

Where will the legs be in relation to the aprons, inside the corners?

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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BB1

2134 posts in 1926 days


#3 posted 04-01-2021 03:40 PM

Jim – I have avoided oil (for the most part) due to the smell and my concern on disposal of rags etc. I expect I’ll bring it in the house to finish so that makes the odor more of an issue. I do like the richness of the oil finish, so wasn’t sure if the Enduro Var might be the best of both worlds.

I’ve had trouble cutting bevels but if I get a zero clearance that might be an option. Assume miter is same concept as a bevel.

Layman – yes, my terminology may be wrong but you figured out my question. ;)

I haven’t had a chance to look carefully at the legs. I was planning on the legs inside the apron – realizing I need to keep space for wood movement.
This is what happens when a project is developed in stages!!

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Lazyman

6975 posts in 2465 days


#4 posted 04-01-2021 03:52 PM

You’ve touched upon why I asked about leg placement. If you look at how the legs are attached on most tables with aprons, they are not attached to the top but to the aprons. This eliminates any concerns with wood movement, assuming you attach the top to the aprons with figure 8s for example. You may want to look at various strategies for attaching legs to aprons as this may simplify your approach and yield a stronger table. Basically, make a strong base with aprons and attach a top to it.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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BB1

2134 posts in 1926 days


#5 posted 04-01-2021 04:02 PM

Lazyman – I get your point. I’m thinking the apron is more for visual than structural given the legs I purchased. This is the picture from the box.

And this is what the connection looks like

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BB1

2134 posts in 1926 days


#6 posted 04-01-2021 04:12 PM

Was thinking the legs could be inside the apron (boards just place on surface…no joinery at this point)

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Lazyman

6975 posts in 2465 days


#7 posted 04-01-2021 04:14 PM

Personally, I think aprons might not look right with that style of leg but that is a personal preference. It might be a little tough with a round top but the usual way to give the top more thickness would be to add a thicker edge strip or attach a curved piece to underneath, matching the grain/color as close as you can, so it looks thicker. How thick is your top?

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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BB1

2134 posts in 1926 days


#8 posted 04-01-2021 04:18 PM

Lazyman – not as thick as I would have liked. Only 3/4 inch. Had thought how to build up the edge, but with round table I was struggling to see how to make that work.

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Lazyman

6975 posts in 2465 days


#9 posted 04-01-2021 04:39 PM

I would consider cutting multiple arcs using a band saw or jig saw and attaching them to underside along the edge being mindful to have similar grain direction and color. Once attached you can clean it up using a pattern bit with the bearing riding on the “good” edge. I suppose you could also use a contrasting wood or a thin strip separating the top from the arcs so that you don’t have to worry as much about grain matching.

Commercially built tables usually attach the arcs to the bottom and apply edge banding (veneer) to cover it, though they typically use veneered particle board rather than solid wood tops.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

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BB1

2134 posts in 1926 days


#10 posted 04-01-2021 06:35 PM

So, is 3/4 inch too thin for a top? I had looked at 1.25 inch white oak, but the cherry was just too eye catching and I switched over while at the store. Sigh…need to go look at what cherry I have left and see what I can come up with. My day off isn’t as productive as I hoped! Did get a start on the sanding at least (good thinking time!).
Thanks for all the insights – learning process as always.

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CWWoodworking

1742 posts in 1257 days


#11 posted 04-01-2021 06:40 PM

I think it need to be thicker as well. Just do a build up of 4/4 scraps and route it smooth like lazy man suggested. Mount the legs on the inside of ring so it doesn’t effect height.

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BB1

2134 posts in 1926 days


#12 posted 04-01-2021 06:48 PM

Stupid follow-up question to trying to build up the edge with a ring: I understand the need to have the grain in the same direction but do each of the pieces need to be the same width as the boards in my current top? Would this be glued in place and then trimmed. For some reason I’m not picturing how to operationalize this.

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splintergroup

5104 posts in 2300 days


#13 posted 04-01-2021 07:02 PM

Grain in same direction (for expansion/contraction) no need to have the same width.

Just glue on with some overlap, then saw close to the top rim and flush up with a router and pilot bearing trim bit.

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CWWoodworking

1742 posts in 1257 days


#14 posted 04-01-2021 07:13 PM



Grain in same direction (for expansion/contraction) no need to have the same width.

Just glue on with some overlap, then saw close to the top rim and flush up with a router and pilot bearing trim bit.

- splintergroup

This. You don’t even have to worry about the inside. Just use a circle cutting jig/router to clean up the inside.

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BB1

2134 posts in 1926 days


#15 posted 04-01-2021 07:13 PM

Starting to picture it. How wide does the “ring” need to be? Couple of inches?

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