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Jet JWBS-14SFX Bandsaw blade tracking issue

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Forum topic by scrapwood18 posted 03-14-2021 10:23 PM 1555 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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scrapwood18

4 posts in 1322 days


03-14-2021 10:23 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tool bandsaw wood jet jet jwbs-14fx

I am a fairly new woodworking hobbyist and recently purchased a new Jet JWBS-14SFX bandsaw. After adjusting the blade tracking on the upper wheel either centered or, as Alex Snodgrass suggests centering the tooth gullet, the blade moves out on the lower wheel until the teeth are at the edge or slightly protruding from the lower wheel. Apparently the upper and lower wheels are not in concentric alignment. When running, the blade does not come off the lower wheel, but this obviously is not correct. The blade tension adjustment is set properly (approximately 1/4” deflection.) There doesn’t appear to be any adjustment for blade tracking on the lower wheel. Of course it is not addressed in the user manual, and Jet Technical Support has given me conflicting suggestions. I’m hoping that someone in the forum here has encountered and solved this issue and could offer some assistance. Thanks in advance.


16 replies so far

View Bob5103's profile

Bob5103

228 posts in 2115 days


#1 posted 03-15-2021 02:06 AM

I am just putting a used one together, so I don’t have a blade on yet, but you might find this video useful. Good luck.
Jet 141sfx

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TDSpade

143 posts in 3697 days


#2 posted 03-15-2021 06:16 AM

Have you tried another blade? Blades do not track the same. I have had some track just like you described. But they worked.

How are the lower guides and support bearing adjusted?
The support bearing should not be touching the back of the blade.
There should be a 1/64 of an inch gap between the support bearing and the blade.

Is the guide post all of the way up with the 1/4” deflection?

-- For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert.

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

2299 posts in 2931 days


#3 posted 03-15-2021 10:35 AM

Normally, lower wheel is factory set and you should not touch it. Adjustment is usually by bolts on the outside back on the axle. Some say the wheels are co-planer ( with upper wheel adjusted as such) others say they are not. Both I have had were so tracking only tilted the upper wheel. No difference in skew.

To be sure you are not getting fooled, I would pull the table and back the guides all the way off.

I was going to look at the parts or manual and see how the lower wheel is adjusted, but the JET WEB does not find it.

I suggest getting back on the phone with Jet and push.

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tvrgeek

2299 posts in 2931 days


#4 posted 03-15-2021 10:36 AM

Bob, your link takes one back to this thread, not a video

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Bob5103

228 posts in 2115 days


#5 posted 03-15-2021 11:26 AM



Bob, your link takes one back to this thread, not a video

- tvrgeek


Thanks for heads up, here it is hopefully, Jet14sfx

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scrapwood18

4 posts in 1322 days


#6 posted 03-15-2021 04:02 PM

Thanks guys for your replies.
I have only two blades, a 1/4” and a 5/8”. Both blades exhibit the same behavior. I have watched the Snodgrass video several times and it has been very helpful. I have the guide and thrust bearings adjusted the way he shows. The 1/4” deflection is with the guide post all the way up.
Jet Tech Support initially said to loosen the nuts and adjust the Allen head screws on the lower wheel bracket (#12 on the parts exploded view). That didn’t affect anything. Another Tech then said to remove the lower wheel and shim the bracket with a washer. Not sure I want to disturb the lower wheel with a lock nut until I get better assurance it is really necessary.

tvrgeek, the user manual can be seen at: http://go.rockler.com/tech/Jet-14-inch-Bandsaw-manual.pdf, however it doesn’t provide any info on adjusting the lower wheel.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8798 posts in 3481 days


#7 posted 03-15-2021 05:43 PM

Position on the lower wheel is not important, as long as it is not causing damage.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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splintergroup

6015 posts in 2504 days


#8 posted 03-15-2021 05:51 PM

I agree w/Brad. The coplanarity (is that a word?) is not really that critical as long as your blade is supported on the lower wheel. You can shim out the lower wheel, but that brings up a bunch of touchy adjustment issues, most of which are keeping the plane of the lower wheel correct.

View toolie's profile

toolie

2210 posts in 3910 days


#9 posted 03-16-2021 11:22 AM



Thanks guys for your replies.
I have only two blades, a 1/4” and a 5/8”. Both blades exhibit the same behavior. I have watched the Snodgrass video several times and it has been very helpful. I have the guide and thrust bearings adjusted the way he shows. The 1/4” deflection is with the guide post all the way up.
Jet Tech Support initially said to loosen the nuts and adjust the Allen head screws on the lower wheel bracket (#12 on the parts exploded view). That didn t affect anything. Another Tech then said to remove the lower wheel and shim the bracket with a washer. Not sure I want to disturb the lower wheel with a lock nut until I get better assurance it is really necessary.

tvrgeek, the user manual can be seen at: http://go.rockler.com/tech/Jet-14-inch-Bandsaw-manual.pdf, however it doesn t provide any info on adjusting the lower wheel.

- scrapwood18

I feel for you. It’s always distressing when a new tool doesn’t live up to its expectations:

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

2299 posts in 2931 days


#10 posted 03-16-2021 11:59 AM

Lower bearing housing, item #12 looks like it is just hard bolted to the frame. Don/t see how it adjusts, but it should have a big effect. Every tweak of the lower wheel will need a tweak to the upper wheel.

Again the upper wheel plane will be tilted with respect to the lower, but not skew. By setting the upper wheel tilt to zero with respect to the lower wheel, you can see of the planes are parallel by checking right and left sides of the wheels.

Again, are you doing this work with the guides fully retracted? Don’t get confused by them until your tracking is good. I agree if the blade stays on, it is OK, but it is clearly not right. Have you tried a different blade?

View Kudzupatch's profile

Kudzupatch

324 posts in 2490 days


#11 posted 03-16-2021 01:50 PM

If it were my saw there are two things I would be checking since you have tried another blade and they do the same thing.

1. First thing to check is are both tires crowned? My first suspicion is the lower tire is not. Tires are not flat, they need a crown, to be taller in the center. The blade wants to run uphill and without a crown they will/can run off the wheels and sounds like you lower wheel may not have a crown on it.

2. I would check to see if the the wheels are in line with each other. Might require removing the table but I would put a straight edge across the face and see if they line up or are close to lining up. If you do have a crown but the wheels are not aligned it could cause the blade to try to want to run in opposite directions.

Since your lower is trying run off the wheel or to the edge I don’t think this is the case but it could be. At this point I strongly lean to the crown issue.

Guides are not causing this. You blade should track in the center of both wheels (or very close) with the guides totally back off the blade. So there is something else causing this.

-- Jeff Horton * Kudzu Craft skin boats* www.kudzucraft.com

View Bstrom's profile

Bstrom

360 posts in 455 days


#12 posted 03-16-2021 10:49 PM

If you have one nearby, I’d look for a local woodworkers guild and find someone who can sleuth this one out for you before taking extreme measures and changing up the mechanics of the saw. Unless the saw is boogered up somehow, it shouldn’t take long to determine the solution. If idiots like me can buy, refurbish, modify and tune up one of these things, you just need someone who knows how they work to sort this out. Hope you get it licked!

-- Bstrom

View Robert's profile

Robert

4782 posts in 2762 days


#13 posted 03-16-2021 11:27 PM

Tracking should be set with the upper and lower guides completely backed off.

Be sure it’s tensioned up. Forget the gauge if it’s a 1/2” blade tension to at least the 3/4 mark or more.

I agree don’t touch the bottom wheel.

Not all bandsaws are designed with coplanar wheels.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View scrapwood18's profile

scrapwood18

4 posts in 1322 days


#14 posted 03-18-2021 03:29 PM

Thanks to all who responded.
I did set the tracking with all the guide bearings completely backed off. Can’t tell for sure in the wheels have crowns on them, but the machine is brand new so the wheels are whatever to factory puts on it. It seems to cut ok so for the time being I think I will leave things as they are and see if it settles out with some use. Will see if I can find anyone locally who is a bandsaw guru.
Thanks again

View Kudzupatch's profile

Kudzupatch

324 posts in 2490 days


#15 posted 03-18-2021 08:57 PM


.... Can t tell for sure in the wheels have crowns on them, but the machine is brand new so the wheels are whatever to factory puts on it.

Easy check is just lay a straight edge on the tires and see if it is flat. You should be able to rock the straight edge on the tire just a bit. If it lays flat and you you don’t see a little light under the edges then there is no crown.

If this is a new machine, I would be insisting someone fix it. You pay to much for a new one for it not to be right.

-- Jeff Horton * Kudzu Craft skin boats* www.kudzucraft.com

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