LumberJocks

I bought an old saw... Help!

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by Jeffmb posted 03-14-2021 02:04 AM 790 views 0 times favorited 29 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Jeffmb's profile

Jeffmb

15 posts in 227 days


03-14-2021 02:04 AM

Hi I just picked up an old Craftsman 113-298030 for $50 All seems to work, bought it from the owners grandson. It is a bit industrial compared to my $119 Skil saw. I need some advice on ensuring all woks and how to refurbish it. Fence locks in front but a bit wobbly in the back. There is no measure for the fence. Can I refurb fence and rail or should I go aftermarket? What else should I be looking for? Any advice is much appreciated.


29 replies so far

View PaulDoug's profile

PaulDoug

2549 posts in 2789 days


#1 posted 03-14-2021 02:48 AM

If it is in decent shape… you did good… I used one for 30+ year and now my son in law uses it… The fence,, I feel there is not much you can do for it… I upgraded mine with a Mulecabinetmaker fence:https://www.mulecab.com. I loved it…

-- “We all die. The goal isn't to live forever; the goal is to create something that will.” - Chuck Palahniuk

View SMP's profile

SMP

3994 posts in 991 days


#2 posted 03-14-2021 03:34 AM

If I remember correctly, isn’t there like a threaded rod that connects the front to back and if you tighten it up, it makes the back “claw” grip tighter? The other option is make your own fence, something like:

https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/how-to/a19952/make-a-wooden-fence-for-your-table-saw/

View LittleBlackDuck's profile

LittleBlackDuck

7076 posts in 1906 days


#3 posted 03-14-2021 09:25 AM


.... What else should I be looking for?....
- Jeffmb

Sold by owner’s grandson rings all sorts of claxons. Is it a “heirloom” left rusting? Why was it sold?

It may be salvageable, however, it may cost you a small fortune for a mediocre potentially dangerous tool.

Not having seen it (a picture may have been beneficial), however, having paid $50, I would recommend buying a small boat… you already have the anchor.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

2139 posts in 687 days


#4 posted 03-14-2021 10:43 AM

You may want to stop and check the saw thoroughly and start making a list of what needs work or replacement. Also become acquainted with safety features that common or required on new saws. With that done size all of that up with your budget and available time. A great fence can set you back a lot of dollars along with a motor that may need work or replacement.

View Tom Regnier's profile

Tom Regnier

509 posts in 3633 days


#5 posted 03-14-2021 10:52 AM

I have a 113 and put side wings on and a Delta fence…makes the old saw quite accurate. I inherited mine from my dad and haven’t had to do much to it other than clean and lube. Dad made a dust box underneath that holds a few projects worth of sawdust…open the back door and bag it up.
Love my saw….I hope you e joy yours as much.

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

1870 posts in 2735 days


#6 posted 03-14-2021 11:12 AM

Clean it up. New belt, Make a ZCI with a splitter. You can get new stick on rulers for the fence from most woodworking supplies. The fence will be fine when put back into new order. You could always put on a VerySuperCoolTools fence, but the OEM will work.

Looks like the same “Emerson” made forever, including the Ridgid I had. You can get the number off the belt and order one off Amazon or somewhere. The motor mounding plate tends to go askew in time so the pullies don’t line up. Nothing a couple washers won’t fix. Makes a big difference in vibration. Really need to clean all the old crud off the trunnion and gears or it wil be stiff. New good HP grease, applied where needed. Takes only a little fiddling to get the blade to slots dead on ( netter than thou ). Sometimes the tilt stop bolts ( through the top of the table) get stuck and need some finesse.

I enclosed mine in a stand and dust collection went from terrible to only bad.

View mpsprunger's profile

mpsprunger

37 posts in 2946 days


#7 posted 03-14-2021 04:59 PM

Trunnion and gearing were good, pulley alignment for 45 degree cuts appeared to be a problem, not for the cut ,but slight bind of the belt, also the pulley wants to walk off the shaft. Had mine for 20years, its was old when I got it. very accurate saw, built many cabinets with it

View brtech's profile

brtech

1128 posts in 4008 days


#8 posted 03-14-2021 05:11 PM

I had one for 20 years. Decent saw. You can tighten up the fence some. Mine was never perfect, but it worked well enough. I was always frustrated with alignment until I got a PALS for it. Made a big difference. Replacing the belt when it wears helps a lot. A ZCI with a Microjig splitter will make it cut much cleaner and safer. It’s easy to make your own, because it’s a simple shape. Clean it, lube it, wax the surface, make the ZCI and add the splitter, replace the belt and you should have a very decent starter saw

View JIMMIEM's profile

JIMMIEM

204 posts in 1927 days


#9 posted 03-14-2021 05:47 PM

I have one of these. Get an aftermarket fence…..I got the Delta T2 fence. Another poster mentioned PALS for aligning the blade….cost about $20. Maybe get a link belt and replace the stamped pulleys with machined pulleys. Install good blades and keep them clean. You’ll be happy with it.

View LesB's profile

LesB

2987 posts in 4529 days


#10 posted 03-14-2021 06:02 PM

These were durable saws. I passed mine on to my step son about 20 years ago and he still uses is although he doesn’t take care of it so the top is a rusted slab.

I would not put too much money into it. You can end up spending more for a new fence than the saw is worth.
Clean it up, new belt, a good carbide combo blade (I like Freud’s 40 tooth thin combo) and use it until you can afford better. The thin blade will help make up for the low power of the 120v motor.

-- Les B, Oregon

View Jeffmb's profile

Jeffmb

15 posts in 227 days


#11 posted 03-14-2021 08:45 PM

Been playing with it today. cleaning it up etc. Noticed one potential fatal flaw. The motor is not original. It is a craftsman motor I noticed it has two shafts, Probably off of a grinder. Mounting holes do not line up perfectly so may be a cause of some vibration. I might make a matching mount for it but since it is only 3/4 hp I might look for the correct motor or sell the saw. On the flip side if I spend the money on a correct motor I can use the dual shaft one to make a disc sander :)
The manual states that the correct motor is part # 62618. Does anyone know of any other part #’s that would be comparable to widen my search.

That twist lock fence lines up with the miter slot and if you pull while you tighten it does not move so that is a plus.
Need to solve the motor dilemma then ill look at a Zero Clearance with mj splitter and maybe even add a router table to the end of the rails.

View JIMMIEM's profile

JIMMIEM

204 posts in 1927 days


#12 posted 03-14-2021 09:02 PM



Been playing with it today. cleaning it up etc. Noticed one potential fatal flaw. The motor is not original. It is a craftsman motor I noticed it has two shafts, Probably off of a grinder. Mounting holes do not line up perfectly so may be a cause of some vibration. I might make a matching mount for it but since it is only 3/4 hp I might look for the correct motor or sell the saw. On the flip side if I spend the money on a correct motor I can use the dual shaft one to make a disc sander :)
The manual states that the correct motor is part # 62618. Does anyone know of any other part # s that would be comparable to widen my search.

That twist lock fence lines up with the miter slot and if you pull while you tighten it does not move so that is a plus.
Need to solve the motor dilemma then ill look at a Zero Clearance with mj splitter and maybe even add a router table to the end of the rails.

- Jeffmb


According the the web site Sears/Craftsman no longer makes the motor. Several manufacturers manufacture motors that will fit your saw e.g. Leeson, Baldor, Grizzly. Grizzly is the least expensive and gets good reviews.
The fence will work but it’s a pia to untighten/tighten and adjust. I replaced this fence with the next version up which tightens with the cam/lever lock…...like the good ones. It’s better than the twist lock fence but I upgraded from this one to a Delta T2. The cam/lever lock fence is just sitting on a shelf and you can have it for no $.....where are you located?

View Jeffmb's profile

Jeffmb

15 posts in 227 days


#13 posted 03-14-2021 09:19 PM

HI, I am in Colorado Springs. I would live to have the cantilever fence. I can cover shipping

View bobfromsanluis's profile

bobfromsanluis

47 posts in 1758 days


#14 posted 03-14-2021 09:31 PM

Lots of great advice so far, if you can solve the motor issue and get a new drive belt, lubricate the gears for raising/lowering and the tilting adjustments, my only other advice besides a splitter is to make sure the motor and arbor pulleys are in alignment, and attached very securely. On replacing the belt, you might consider a link belt for replacement, they are supposed to do good at reducing vibration. The original fence can be made to work okay, but if you want to hang onto this saw, upgrading the fence will make this saw much more pleasurable to use, a lot less frustration in setting up for rip cuts.

View Jeffmb's profile

Jeffmb

15 posts in 227 days


#15 posted 03-14-2021 10:29 PM


Been playing with it today. cleaning it up etc. Noticed one potential fatal flaw. The motor is not original. It is a craftsman motor I noticed it has two shafts, Probably off of a grinder. Mounting holes do not line up perfectly so may be a cause of some vibration. I might make a matching mount for it but since it is only 3/4 hp I might look for the correct motor or sell the saw. On the flip side if I spend the money on a correct motor I can use the dual shaft one to make a disc sander :)
The manual states that the correct motor is part # 62618. Does anyone know of any other part # s that would be comparable to widen my search.

That twist lock fence lines up with the miter slot and if you pull while you tighten it does not move so that is a plus.
Need to solve the motor dilemma then ill look at a Zero Clearance with mj splitter and maybe even add a router table to the end of the rails.

- Jeffmb

According the the web site Sears/Craftsman no longer makes the motor. Several manufacturers manufacture motors that will fit your saw e.g. Leeson, Baldor, Grizzly. Grizzly is the least expensive and gets good reviews.
The fence will work but it s a pia to untighten/tighten and adjust. I replaced this fence with the next version up which tightens with the cam/lever lock…...like the good ones. It s better than the twist lock fence but I upgraded from this one to a Delta T2. The cam/lever lock fence is just sitting on a shelf and you can have it for no $.....where are you located?

- JIMMIEM


HI, I am in Colorado Springs. I would live to have the cantilever fence. I can cover shipping

showing 1 through 15 of 29 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com