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Advice on slimming down the base of my walnut hall table build?

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Forum topic by tcaz posted 03-12-2021 05:09 PM 580 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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tcaz

28 posts in 911 days


03-12-2021 05:09 PM

The hall table I’m building came out a bit clunkier/boxier than I was hoping. Any magical ideas to make the base appear more delicate?

I’ve broken all the edges and put an 1/8” round over on the outside corners of the legs. It helped but still not where I’d prefer it to be. Also, top isn’t to final cut or shaped.

Help. Please. Thanks!


7 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

11190 posts in 4726 days


#1 posted 03-12-2021 05:19 PM

It would have been preferable to leave room to taper the legs on the sides if you had foreseen this issue. It’s possible to taper the outside corner on the jointer or with hand planes but viewed straight on the taper may catch the light but it won’t show otherwise.

You could cut the stretchers thinner if possible, or even make the curved on the outsides with a hand plane. Then you’d have a little room to taper the sides of the legs.

View RClark's profile

RClark

126 posts in 3263 days


#2 posted 03-12-2021 05:23 PM

Is this already glued up?

Couple of ideas that could be done without regard to assembly state.

- Bevel the bottom edge of the top. Looks like 1.25” thick? I’d bring the bottom edge of the top up halfway, and the underside as far back to the apron as I could easily get it. It will lighten up the look of the top.

- Bottom of the legs could be narrowed on the inside faces. Helps it from looking to blockish all the way to the floor. Here’s a pic of what I’m talking about in progress:

Those two things may help significantly, are relatively easy, and I think they can be done even if the piece is essentially assembled.

I’ll be following to see if others have some ideas.

-- Ray

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SMP

3941 posts in 984 days


#3 posted 03-12-2021 05:24 PM

If its already assembled, probably the easiest option is to get a wide 45 chamfer bearing router bit and just run that along the outside corners, letting the router base hit the top so it stops there. This will make the legs visually appear thinner at the bottom than the top. It won’t look so blocky.

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tcaz

28 posts in 911 days


#4 posted 03-12-2021 05:42 PM

Thanks for the quick advice thus far! It helps give me a few things to consider.

The base is assembled. Top is still in limbo to its final shape. Originally planned it for a 3” overhang on the ends, 1/2” on the edges.

Here’s a few other quick photos with better lighting-

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

4439 posts in 2572 days


#5 posted 03-12-2021 06:03 PM

Instead of plain round over on corners, use a beading round over bit and cut deeper on outside 2 corners of each leg. Like this:

This will add decorative detail and makes the side of each leg face look smaller. Stop the bead 4-6 inches from each end so you don’t lose cross section on ground or under table top.

Make the cut in several passes to avoid any tear out problems due grain direction.

Combined with wavy edge, roman ogee edge, or traditional french edge on table top; for balanced look.
YMMV

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, Doom, despair, agony on me… - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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tcaz

28 posts in 911 days


#6 posted 03-12-2021 11:49 PM

Thanks for all you suggestions. While I didn’t get to top today, I managed to trim up a few base components which I feel satisfied with.

For the curious- I took off 1/8-3/16” on the underside of the stretcher and two lower rails through a combo of a Rotex (to take off the meat of it), planes, and chisels for the corners. I then used the same procedure to remove +- same amount from the backside of the stretcher and backside of the center supports. Finally, I went over the legs corners with a 6mm roundover.

Here are some updated photos. It may not looks like much but definitely helped shed some weight. Live and learn…

View Bstrom's profile

Bstrom

355 posts in 251 days


#7 posted 03-13-2021 01:38 PM



Is this already glued up?

Couple of ideas that could be done without regard to assembly state.

- Bevel the bottom edge of the top. Looks like 1.25” thick? I d bring the bottom edge of the top up halfway, and the underside as far back to the apron as I could easily get it. It will lighten up the look of the top.

- Bottom of the legs could be narrowed on the inside faces. Helps it from looking to blockish all the way to the floor. Here s a pic of what I m talking about in progress:

Those two things may help significantly, are relatively easy, and I think they can be done even if the piece is essentially assembled.

I ll be following to see if others have some ideas.

- RClark


I like this design direction – would add the character this table design is looking for. A beaded edge is a different look and this table needs the MCM look to me.

-- Bstrom

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