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Grizzly P0651093 - MOTOR ACCESS COVER Dimensions for Grizzly G0651 Table Saw

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Forum topic by dustmonkey posted 03-10-2021 12:05 AM 1157 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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dustmonkey

26 posts in 4983 days


03-10-2021 12:05 AM

Topic tags/keywords: grizzly g0651 motor cover unisaw

Anyone out there with a Grizzly G0651 table saw? I asked Grizzly customer service if they had dimensions for the Grizzly P0651093 – MOTOR ACCESS COVER, but they were not helpful and in fact borderline rude. They mentioned that they had no records of me purchasing a G0651 saw and in a follow up email said they have no need to keep any dimensions or drawings on hand for the millions of parts they sell.

Anyway, the reason I’m asking is I’m near the end of a Rockwell Unisaw restoration and I’m without the illusive motor cover. I was hope to get enough info from Grizzly to tell if I can adapt the Grizzly cover to my 34-761 Unisaw.

I would appreciate help from anyone that has a G0651 and can send some dimensions.

Thanks in advance


11 replies so far

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

5164 posts in 2832 days


#1 posted 03-10-2021 12:35 AM

Replacement Unisaw motor cover?

Easy Peasy, Lemon Squeezy

https://bellplasticsfabrication.com/product-category/rockwell-table-saw-motor-covers-doors/

Cheers!

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, Doom, despair, agony on me… - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

8856 posts in 3536 days


#2 posted 03-10-2021 03:00 AM

The motor cover on that saw (p/n 34-843) was basically just a rectangular box… there are plastic aftermarket ones available, like those linked to above, Delta OEM ones turn up on e-bay now and then, or you can do like I did and just make one to suit your needs (I wanted to incorporate a VFD cover in mine as well). You have the saw, so use it to make the cover!

As for dimensions – just measure your motor opening. For how far out it needs to go, I believe I did mine at 8”, but you can easily measure how far the motor sticks and add a couple inches for air flow.

I certainly wouldn’t be throwing any Grizzly parts at a Unisaw – you risk loosing your Unisaw club membership :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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dustmonkey

26 posts in 4983 days


#3 posted 03-10-2021 03:24 AM

I did look at the bell plastics covers, but by the time I get it here it will be $200 which is what I paid for the saw! I already ponied up big bucks for a new (old) 50” Beisemeyer fence and rails I was able to find. If i fork out $200 I was hoping for the real thing…. Not sold on the Grizzly, just looking for options. I do need to build an extension table anyway…

I’m nearly done with the saw, but ran into a problem with a replacement front trunnion that was from an older saw and not compatible with my newer model saw. I missed that one.! I need to get the correct trunnion, get it cleaned up and put my parts on it. I do have to say the saw looks amazing. Since I basically took it completely apart I ended up cleaning up and re-painting everything which has turned out really nice. I do have to say the saw looks amazing. Just bummed I need to disassemble and re-assemble again… It could be worse…

View rbrjr1's profile

rbrjr1

217 posts in 1543 days


#4 posted 03-11-2021 05:23 PM

if I were you, I would just fab one myself out of sheetmetal.
or make it out of wood,

I’m just saying that your gripe with Grizzly about not being forthcoming regarding the dimensions on a replacement part for a saw that you neither own currently nor purchased from them isn’t really a valid point..

-- only an idiot dismisses an intelligent statement because they dont know anything about the person delivering it.

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dustmonkey

26 posts in 4983 days


#5 posted 03-13-2021 04:26 PM

The Bell Plastics cover won’t fit my saw without drilling new holes. Looks like a wood or sheet metal fabrication is in my future. I’m thinking sheet metal, maybe thin AL diamond plate or just plain steel and be true to the original. I’ve got access to a large brake and I just bought a small welder. If I do AL I know a welder that does really nice work…..

Wood will be easier to fab and might make the saw a little quieter, but I just like the idea of a metal cover….

I’m pretty sure how the original went together, but if anyone has a saw with the original straight forward square motor cover mounted with stand-offs a couple of pics would be great.

My saw is a 34-761

Thanks

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MrUnix

8856 posts in 3536 days


#6 posted 03-13-2021 04:58 PM

Those covers were a PITA to put on and take off IMO – they were very fiddly on those long stand off screw things. My Uni has the exact same cabinet and was purchased with a DIY sheet metal cover that the PO had made. It was a nice job, but still butt ugly and a PITA to work with.

I had thought about making one that hinged on the side for easy access, but instead, I wound up making a plywood frame that went around the motor opening, and attached cleats to it so it would accept a cover. It used the 4 existing screw holes in the cabinet to attach, so no holes or any other modifications were needed. The cover was made out of 1/8” plywood (luan) and was designed to hang on the cleats, with the lower portion slanting back into the cabinet opening to prevent sawdust from escaping. It’s super easy to remove – you just lift up and pull off. Re-installation is just as easy in reverse. I also wanted to incorporate a place for a VFD, as the machine is three phase – so the project killed two birds with one cover ;)

Took a couple of days to make, but I painted it to match the saw, so most of that time was waiting for paint to dry ;)

Here it is before being installed on the machine:

The VFD housing could have easily been omitted, and would have made it even easier to make. YMMV.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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dustmonkey

26 posts in 4983 days


#7 posted 03-13-2021 05:13 PM

I like what you did, looks good and I would probably mount the same way. My original idea was to re-create the stand-off mounting, but to do it with all thread and a long tube as a spacer. That way the stand-off would remain attached to the saw and the cover would just slide off the ends. My main concern with that method would be weight and sagging. I think cleats would be simpler….

Funny that in researching the cover I finally figured out my saw is a type 2 since the dust door has continuous horizontal vents instead of the 2 rows, never saw that before and thought it might be an aftermarket.

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

5164 posts in 2832 days


#8 posted 03-13-2021 08:21 PM

Have rebuilt a couple Unisaw.
Not a fan of the OEM lift off cover that uses long mounting posts as the box tends to sag, and scratch the paint.

IME – most any non-metal cover requires new screw holes.

Just be happy you have one with front door, and don’t need to hinge the motor cover for when you drop the arbor nut. #IAMAKLUTZ

For an ‘84 model, made a wooden one from 1/4” BB ply, using 1/2” ply face frame glued/screwed. Added 3/4×3/4 inside corner bracing. Started with lift off, using factory screw locations. Total PITA to remove, especially the screw under the extension table when using long fence.
Gets opened too often on newer model without front door. :(
Changed to side hinge, which needed different screw holes. Sorry don’t have any detailed pictures of motor cover:

On models with side screw holes, only metal cover is thin enough to allow reaching the screw holes. Even a 1/4” wooden box side has to be inside the metal opening slightly, which can hit the motor in full up/90° position.

IMHO – Do not get hung up on couple of screw holes for motor cover. No one will see them with cover installed. :)

Best Luck!

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, Doom, despair, agony on me… - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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dustmonkey

26 posts in 4983 days


#9 posted 03-13-2021 09:16 PM

These pics got be thinking, why hinge the whole cover and not just the outer face? I might do some more thinking on that. I’m still waiting for my new front trunnion to get here sometime next week. Then I can finish the saw, do the door and get the rails mounted, build the extension table, then I should be good to go.

BTW I will have an older style front trunnion if you or any one you know needs one all cleaned, painted ((Krylon gloss gray smoke) and ready to go… The older style (see the pics above) has less pronounced depressions than the newer style….

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

5164 posts in 2832 days


#10 posted 03-13-2021 09:58 PM

These pics got me thinking, why hinge the whole cover and not just the outer face? – dustmonkey
Use caution in your design logic. Stick you arm into machine from front and see what you reach!

Only time I need to remove motor cover on saw with front door is for something that involves changing belts or removing the motor. Both are rare events. Those motors are 50-80lbs, and not something I want to wrestle out via a flimsy 8” deep box.
IME – The cabinet is 21” wide inside, the motor cover needs to be ~8” deep. The average human arm length from finger tip to arm pit is 28-32”. Assuming you can stand directly in front of motor opening (not easy with extension table), usable working reach with finger will be 24-27”. Trust me when I say – PITA to reach thru a motor cover to work on saw.

YMMV

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, Doom, despair, agony on me… - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967

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dustmonkey

26 posts in 4983 days


#11 posted 03-13-2021 10:42 PM

If I do a box/frame with a cabinet like door I would only use it for minor stuff like cleaning and retrieving dropped items. I would make the box/frame removable for major stuff…

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