Couple of table saw questions...

You can get better “washers” for the arbor. 5/8 arbor, so all the flange washers will work. Get one from machined steel. I tighten “snug”. Right or wrong I have no idea, but works for me.

I would adjust for no more than .002 parallel to blade. You must have the arbor sorted first. Use the same tooth etc. One suggestion was cutting a sheet of 1/2 phenolic that was very flat into an oblong that hung over on the table top giving you a strait, but further distance measuring point. The straighter, the less likely kick-back, cleaner cut, lower effort etc. .003 is not bad though. Most blades have .001 or so runout, or at least the good ones. Cheap places may be a lot more. So the same tooth suggestion.

No need to torque it down, just moderately tight. The rotation goes opposite direction if tightening.

I wouldn’t mess with adjusting .003 out, the arbor runout and/or blade wobble is probably as much or more.

You can mic the width of a kerf and figure that out.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

Beuford I hope you don’t mind me asking some questions about the same thing.

How/where do you get better washers? I know the standard 5/8 but is the outside diameter the same?

How easy does the OEM inside washer come off? I am trying to replace mine, thanks.

For getting good blade alignment check out PALS (Precision Alignment System) from InLine Industries. Cost about $20 and will help align the blade. I’ve got an old Craftsman contractor saw and the PALS have made a big difference..best $20 I’ve ever spent.

On the stamped steel nuts, i usually flatten on a flat surface with wet dry paper to get all of the stamped imperfections off. Alternatively you can buy the machined upgrades and balancers.

Beuford I hope you don t mind me asking some questions about the same thing.

How/where do you get better washers? I know the standard 5/8 but is the outside diameter the same?

How easy does the OEM inside washer come off? I am trying to replace mine, thanks.

It’s really not simply a “washer”. The outer arbor flange, which I’ve described for my saw as a heavy stamped steel affair, is a precise fit and so takes a bit of wiggling to remove. The inner flange is part of the drive shaft and is not removable.

Beuford

On the stamped steel nuts, i usually flatten on a flat surface with wet dry paper to get all of the stamped imperfections off. Alternatively you can buy the machined upgrades and balancers.

- SMP

Where?!? Maybe I’m using the wrong search terms but I can’t find an aftermarket machined replacement like you describe…

Beuford

Look for the part as a replacement from any “serious” saw. Jet, Griz, PM, Harvey…
My Harvey has a machined washer and nut that fit as a pair.
Trying to remember, but I think even my Ridgid contractor was machined.

Beuford, when tightening the nut , all you need to do is hand tighten the nut onto the arbor, then set the wrench on the nut, and let it rest on the infeed side of the throat. Grab the blade, and pull towards yourself. All you need is about 3-4 teeth movement to lock the blade onto the shaft. When you want to remove the blade, get a piece of scrap wood. Put it up against the front of the blade. Put your wrench onto the nut and pull towards yourself. If the blade starts to cut the wood, push in harder. If it still cuts, then you need to use another wrench on the backside of the inner flange.
I’ve been in the woodworking business for over 40 years, and have only had one blade over tighten itself to where I had to use a second wrench to loosen it. As far as the outside flange, just sand it on a flat surface. If the sanding marks are a line in the middle of the flange seat, sand until it is completely flat. If you aren’t happy with it, try this place, [email protected] located in Murfreesboro, Tennessee. ................ Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

Beuford, when tightening the nut , all you need to do is hand tighten the nut onto the arbor, then set the wrench on the nut, and let it rest on the infeed side of the throat. Grab the blade, and pull towards yourself. All you need is about 3-4 teeth movement to lock the blade onto the shaft. When you want to remove the blade, get a piece of scrap wood. Put it up against the front of the blade. Put your wrench onto the nut and pull towards yourself. If the blade starts to cut the wood, push in harder. If it still cuts, then you need to use another wrench on the backside of the inner flange.
I ve been in the woodworking business for over 40 years, and have only had one blade over tighten itself to where I had to use a second wrench to loosen it. As far as the outside flange, just sand it on a flat surface. If the sanding marks are a line in the middle of the flange seat, sand until it is completely flat. If you aren t happy with it, try this place, [email protected] located in Murfreesboro, Tennessee. ................ Jerry (in Tucson)

- Nubsnstubs

@Nubsnstubs
Good info. Thanks for posting. I’ve never been quite sure how much to tighten a table saw blade.

Beuford, when tightening the nut , all you need to do is hand tighten the nut onto the arbor, then set the wrench on the nut, and let it rest on the infeed side of the throat. Grab the blade, and pull towards yourself. All you need is about 3-4 teeth movement to lock the blade onto the shaft. When you want to remove the blade, get a piece of scrap wood. Put it up against the front of the blade. Put your wrench onto the nut and pull towards yourself. If the blade starts to cut the wood, push in harder. If it still cuts, then you need to use another wrench on the backside of the inner flange.
I ve been in the woodworking business for over 40 years, and have only had one blade over tighten itself to where I had to use a second wrench to loosen it. As far as the outside flange, just sand it on a flat surface. If the sanding marks are a line in the middle of the flange seat, sand until it is completely flat. If you aren t happy with it, try this place, [email protected] located in Murfreesboro, Tennessee. ................ Jerry (in Tucson)

- Nubsnstubs

I’m afraid that my outside flange washer might be unsalvageable. It is severely cupped from overtightening. The outside edge is no longer flat, and so it does not line up properly with the arbor flange edge; instead it contacts the saw blade inside of the arbor flange edge. The result is that even light tightening of the flange nut causes the saw blade to cup as well. This is confirmed by the marks made on a new saw blade: The mark on the arbor side is a circle 2.5” in diameter (matching the arbor flange); the marks on the nut side are a circle of only 2” in diameter – even though the flange washer is 2.5” in diameter.

Fortunately, the arbor flange is in good shape; only the flange outer flange washer needs to be replaced/fixed.

Arbor flange

Flange washer

I’ll either need to flatten the outside edge of the flange washer or find a new one…

Beuford

You might find this Matthias Wandel (woodgears.ca) article/video helpful:

Fixing the wobble in a table saw arbor

Easy fix. Straighten it out and then stop going gorilla on a nut that only needs to be slightly more than hand tight.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

I’d do as you are thinking, flatten the outer surface and flip it over. Even if temporary to get the saw in use again while you try and source a replacement, you’ll prevent damage to your blades.

For getting good blade alignment check out PALS (Precision Alignment System) from InLine Industries. Cost about $20 and will help align the blade. I ve got an old Craftsman contractor saw and the PALS have made a big difference..best $20 I ve ever spent.

- JIMMIEM

Yep. I put them on my PM 64A. Worked great!

-- A bad day woodworking is still better than a good day working.

For getting good blade alignment check out PALS (Precision Alignment System) from InLine Industries. Cost about $20 and will help align the blade. I ve got an old Craftsman contractor saw and the PALS have made a big difference..best $20 I ve ever spent.

- JIMMIEM

Yep. I put them on my PM 64A. Worked great!

- fivecodys

I still can’t believe I followed the instructions in the Sears manual that said to use a hammer and block of wood to get the blade aligned.