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beaded face frame help needed

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Forum topic by RothFam posted 03-03-2021 12:58 AM 338 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RothFam

5 posts in 136 days


03-03-2021 12:58 AM

I’m considering making beaded face frames for my bathroom cabinets.
I looking at using something like Kreg’s notching bit to make the notch for the frame joints. The bead I want to uses is only 3/16 diameter with 1 1/2” wide frames. The 1 1/2” notching bits say they are for 1/4 beads. Can this bit be used and adjust the depth of the notch to fit the 3/16” bead or does the notch bit and bead bit have to be a matched set?
Here is the Kreg bit: https://www.kregtool.com/shop/routing/routing-system-components/14-x-1-12-notching-bit/PRS4200.html
I called Kreg customer service, he said they’ve never experimented with my question above.

I did find a 3/16” bead set at Woodline, but the notch bit is a 1 3/4” notch.
Any help is appreciated!


10 replies so far

View MikeJ70's profile

MikeJ70

84 posts in 998 days


#1 posted 03-03-2021 03:07 AM

An easier option might be to follow Norm Abram’s tip of building the face frames normal and then adding the bead detail after they are put together. You basically just use a beading bit to rout the profile on a 3/4” board, rip it down on the table saw and then attach it inside the face frame with glue and pin nails, mitering at the corners to get the look you are talking about.

He has a brief write-up about it in Fine Woodworking Issue 196 (Feb 2008).

-- MikeJ

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RothFam

5 posts in 136 days


#2 posted 03-03-2021 03:39 AM

MikeJ70 that is in fact my second option and have ripped a few trial pieces. After reading ROBSCASTLE’s blog on Lumberjocks, it doesn’t look as easy as the youtube videos make it look. I’ll check out Norm’s article. Thanks.

View mtnwalton's profile

mtnwalton

95 posts in 2077 days


#3 posted 03-03-2021 03:41 AM



An easier option might be to follow Norm Abram s tip of building the face frames normal and then adding the bead detail after they are put together. You basically just use a beading bit to rout the profile on a 3/4” board, rip it down on the table saw and then attach it inside the face frame with glue and pin nails, mitering at the corners to get the look you are talking about.

He has a brief write-up about it in Fine Woodworking Issue 196 (Feb 2008).

+1

- MikeJ70


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CWWoodworking

1657 posts in 1229 days


#4 posted 03-03-2021 03:50 AM

I think The easiest solution would be 1/4” bead.

Otherwise I think you could get kregs system to work, but you would need to change the rails to accommodate the 3/16” bead. So 1 3/8 if I’m thinking about it correctly.

If 1.5 is a must, you will need a notching bit that will leave a flat spot of 1 1/8”. I think this will be hard to find? Maybe not, dunno.

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Jared_S

456 posts in 1010 days


#5 posted 03-03-2021 03:54 AM

The short answer is yes you can adjust the depth of cut to account for any size bead.

One thing to be aware of is that the width of the notch changes with the depth. So if you have a smaller diameter bead than the kreg bit is setup for the notch will be smaller than 1.5” by the same amount as the difference in bead width.

Also the kreg beading bit is 1/4” including the quirk, so it’s already setup for a 3/16” bead.

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Rich

6768 posts in 1640 days


#6 posted 03-03-2021 04:08 AM

I have that bit. It’s a 45º bit, so it can cut a miter at any depth up to its cut depth. I’ve even used it to make raised panels for doors. Sneak up on the cut using a test piece. If you have a digital height gauge it’ll help, but you still need to do test cuts.

A beaded frame will always look better than one with a bead molding added to it. Molding has its place, but tacking it in on a frame like that is cheesy.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

28232 posts in 3734 days


#7 posted 03-03-2021 04:14 AM

Hmmm..

Done with one of these..

YMMV

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View MikeJ70's profile

MikeJ70

84 posts in 998 days


#8 posted 03-03-2021 04:44 AM


A beaded frame will always look better than one with a bead molding added to it. Molding has its place, but tacking it in on a frame like that is cheesy.

- Rich

Agreed, but only if you can pull it off cleanly. If not, the molding might be an easier option. Mortise and Tennon would be better too, but most people use pocket screws for cabinet face frames.

To the OP, go to garymkatz.com and look for jack miter under trim techniques. There might be some info there that helps.

-- MikeJ

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Rich

6768 posts in 1640 days


#9 posted 03-03-2021 04:55 AM


Mortise and Tennon would be better too, but most people use pocket screws for cabinet face frames.

- MikeJ70

Most? Do you have numbers to back that up? I’ve never used them for a face frame.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View RothFam's profile

RothFam

5 posts in 136 days


#10 posted 03-03-2021 07:19 PM

Thanks for all the feed back. Lucky for me (and maybe some of you) Amazon has the Kreg 1 1/2” notch bit on sale for $29.99!! That’s not a bad investment for some trial pieces.

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