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Forum topic by GratefulWood | posted 02-28-2021 06:13 PM | 438 views | 0 times favorited | 10 replies | ![]() |
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02-28-2021 06:13 PM |
Topic tags/keywords: paste wax collinite question So, I know it might be blasphemy around here, but I don’t like Johnsons paste wax, it smells horrible, at least the can I have does. It’s like pure gasoline and even my clothes reek of it when I’m done using it. I’ve read that Collinite 885 is a great carnauba paste wax for making table saws etc. slick and rust resistant. I contacted collinite and they said there is a small percentage of silicone in it. I’ve looked around and others have said they haven’t had issues with it affecting finishes on their projects and that it is a very long lasting, and slick paste wax. I know that it’s supposed to be a big no no to get silicone anywhere near a woodshop, but I’ve also read that it’s only bad as a spray and paste waxes are ok. I’m looking for Direct experience with this product and if it has affected finishes on your project. I have a new table saw and want to do it right from the start. I’ve also read good things about crc 3-36 from FWW, etc., so while I’m deciding on a paste wax I applied crc 3-36 on the cast iron in the mean time. Does anyone know if the 885 paste wax just go on top of this? Thanks. |
10 replies so far
#1 posted 02-28-2021 08:38 PM |
This took a while to post since it was my first post, they review it first or something. In the mean time I’ve posted this question in other places and the overall response seems to be why take the chance if it has silicone in it. There are other paste waxes, they may not be as hard but they work fine. |
#2 posted 02-28-2021 08:44 PM |
Never used 3-36, but I use a lot of CRC products. |
#3 posted 02-28-2021 08:49 PM |
Thanks for the reply. I’ve used paraffin wax which is what most candles are, I think, on hand planes. Seen it may take a while to do a table saw top. Do you buff the candle wax by hand or with an electric buffer? |
#4 posted 02-28-2021 08:53 PM |
Since I only use water-based finishes, silicone is a non issue for me. Have a spray bottle on hand at all times, and use it whenever and wherever I want. |
#5 posted 02-28-2021 08:55 PM |
Ah, ok, so silicone only affects oil based finishes? |
#6 posted 02-28-2021 09:43 PM |
Hello, Back to the issue at hand. If you go with it on your cast iron tops and hand planes prep is important. For your initial application clean and scotch brite the surface (Gray then White) immediately before application. I put 2-3 consecutive coats (polish out each coat) on at a time. Depending on how much use the surface gets will dictate reapplication intervals. I do my table saw about 4x a year. For reaps I just wipe with a damp rag (alcohol or MS) let dry then apply 2 coats. It will not stop rust that exists – it will slow the regrowth but those areas if they exist need a lot of attention before the first treatment to remove as much as possible. -- Cheap is expensive! - my Dad |
#7 posted 02-28-2021 11:44 PM |
Silicone wrecks havoc on typical nitro-cellulose lacquers. I’ve used water-based going on 20 years, and never had the slightest concern or effect from silicone spray. So I’m guessing that water-based finishes are not particularly sensitive to silicone. On this site, there are folks way more savvy than me on finishes, so I would defer to the experts for more authoritative advice. |
#8 posted 03-01-2021 12:23 AM |
OnHillWW, Thanks, shining reviews like yours is why I’m so interested in it. Everyone who talks about it just loves it. There is so much concern about silicone on every woodworking forum I’m trying to find as much info about people who use it for that. Do you do much finishing? If so, what kinds? Have you had any finishing issues? Sark, thanks for getting back. I’m trying to shift to mainly water based but still have some oil based to use. Oil based does so nice, but so bad for your brain and hard to clean up. |
#9 posted 03-01-2021 03:10 AM |
I use everything from Waterlox, Epifanes Spar, rattle can lacquer to Osmo never an issue but everything I do gets sanded very well prior to application of any finish. -- Cheap is expensive! - my Dad |
#10 posted 03-01-2021 03:44 AM |
Thanks OnhillWW, that’s really good to hear. I went ahead and coated some cast iron tops with the collinite 885 and felt I’d made a grave mistake. I sand very well before any finish, so I should be good. It is very slick and it seems to go on thick. The protection seems very good. It also leaves the cast iron looking very nice. I was planning to clean it off but I may do a couple small projects and finish them and see how they turn out. Thanks again, your experience is good to hear. |
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