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I may have scored! Powermatic 66.

3K views 19 replies 14 participants last post by  Zonker 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
So I had the winning bid in an on line auction. Yesterday I went and picked up this PM 66. 3HP, 3ph 30" table. It comes from a cabinet shop but appears well cared for. The table has no dings or obvious damage, Tilt and Raise are tight but smooth, hand spinning the motor feels quite smooth. I got a front rail for a Beisemeyer fence along with it. Total paid was $158 and change. It's not even out of the van yet (I have help on the way). I have a cradle to finish before I can mess with this, but I am really excited at my upgrade potential. My plan is to put a 3HP 1ph motor on it, replace the belts and bearings, then search out a used fence and back rail if I can. I'm thinking I'll get it a nice Incra miter gauge too.
So what advice do you PM 66 restorers have for this project? I am pretty set on the motor replacement, if I was sure of the motor, I might go with a VFD, but I haven't seen it run, so I might as well go all the way. It will get a thorough cleaning and inspection, but I probably won't paint it. I will also look into fabricating a new door and motor cover.

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#8 ·
I found some other minor items that need attention. A stop bolt is bent and A sawdust shield is chewed up. That is just from unloading it. More later.
 
#10 ·
I've wanted a Powermatic 66 for years, finally upgraded the wiring to my shop a few months ago, then about 6 weeks ago, a local listing on CL had an older saw listed for $800, and I went for it. The previous owner had swapped out the 3 phase for a Leeson 3HP single phase, I think he added the Biesemeyer fence. Probably should go in and clean out the gearing so I get a smoother rise when raising the blade, the tilt is smooth as silk. Ordered and installed a SharkGuard, hooked it all up to my D/C system, bought a motor cover for it from a plastic manufacturer near the Bay area (California), and found out that one maker of rattle can spray paint had a very close color match. The previous owner had made a masonite door for the front, complete with latch and handle, taped it all off and painted it. The stock saw base had the table top at 34" high, everything in my shop is at 36", so I built a base for it out of maple, and painted it as well. Oh yeah, the shop is a real mess right now, still tuning up the D/C system, and a lot of junk to go through and hopefully get rid of.
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#11 ·
Bobfromsanluis: That was a nice find. I should have that much and maybe more into mine once it's up and running. (A lot more if you include hours.) But I'm really excited to get it going.
 
#15 ·
Welcome to club.
Great price.

IMHO - the 3PH motor replacement .vs. using VFD can be complicated decision.
Can find many threads extolling 3PH motor simplicity, lower conversion cost, lower maintenance requirements, and 'simplicity' (cough-dust free mounting box-cough) of removing the magnetic starter and using VFD. Buying a 1PH replacement motor sounds simpler if you are not electrically inclined; but many folks find it is complicated, especially if you have 56 frame size motor.

Complication is shaft size for older 3HP 3PH motors .vs. 1PH replacement motors. You can easily find a 56C frame 3HP 3PH motor, but you can not find a 56C 3HP 1PH TEFC motor rated for general industrial use. Largest 56C 1PH TEFC general purpose motor available is 2HP. There is not enough room in frame for 3HP 1PH stator windings, unless the motor is designed for lessor duty application like a pump or compressor (which runs hot in TS).
Powermatic used 145TC frame for 3HP 1PH motors since 60's. They fit the standard motor mount. These have larger (7/8") shaft size. So if you have existing 56C frame (5/8" shaft), and try to replace with 145TC frame, you need a new pulley, or modified your existing one. The 3 groove pulley used by PM is non-standard, and only used replacements are scarce, and/or expensive. Newer style 2 groove pulleys available from PM have different spacing, and require 2 new pulleys (motor/arbor) and different belts. It's only money right?

You also have to change the overload heaters in the magnetic starter, as your 3PH motor uses less current per phase than 1PH motor. This is more money chasing down the right size heaters for the magnetic starter, and requires you to dig into the electrical stuff that scares many folks from considering a VFD. :-(0)

Bottom line: Make sure you consider all aspects of 3PH to 1PH change over, including frame size (pulleys), and magnetic starter heaters; before you decide how to change your machine to single phase power. It is rarely a 'simple' motor change.

Best Luck!
 
#16 ·
AND heater elements for some older starters are no longer available, while others require changing heater and overload, such as Allen Bradley changing from N heaters to W heaters that have the overload included. As Captain stated, it is not always as easy as it looks at first glance. At least you hav little in the saw, so added costs will still be cheaper than a new saw.
 
#17 ·
Good score! I know the sawstops are all the rage now but I will never forget a line out of fine woodworking" the powermatic 66, the general 350/650 ,and the Delta unisaw are what every other tablesaw will be judged against" look at the quality of the cast trunions in your 66 and tell me with a straight face that you would rather have a sawstops! The sawstops don't compare to your 66 or my 350. The only thing they have is a safety feature they have sold hard.

No worries about the heaters in your switch a good motor shop will be able to sell you the right ones. All you will need is a picture of the data plate off the motor and a picture or two of the switch inside and out.

You might look on Craigslist for a motor. Or before you unload it take it to your motor shop get a motor and heaters or a switch that all works. It will be so worth it to have that up and going! Congratulations.

The back rail is just an angle iron you could pick a piece up where they sell built steel.

Regards Tom
 
#18 ·
Captain Klutz, "IMHO - the 3PH motor replacement .vs. using VFD can be complicated decision." That is an understatement. Thank you for plainly putting out there the issues at hand. I am still leaning in the direction of a motor swap. #1 I haven't seen this one running, #2 There sounds like some contact between a moving part and stationary part when I spin the motor. I missed it on first inspection, but it will have to be chased down. Having said all that. I have yet to find a viable motor at this time. The one from MMToolParts appears to be a non-56c frame. and I haven't found any other suppliers that list frame size on their sites. I'm deep diving OWWM for info at this time.
 
#19 ·
Thank you for plainly putting out there the issues at hand. - Zonker
Your welcome. BTDTGTTS.
Plus hate to see others waste hours finding all possible gotchas, when changing motors.

OWWM & Vintage Machinery is great resource.
Be sure to check out the VM wiki page with a list of PM66 threads on OWWM:
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Powermatic-66-PM66-PM-66-Table-Saw-Tablesaw-Restoration-Threads-on-OWWM.ashx

When I picked up a recent cheap PM66 with 3HP 3PH motor, had a little bearing roughness, but nothing rubbing.
Found burnt out mess inside:
Automotive tire Wood Rim Circle Auto part

Never know what you will find, till you get inside the motor.

Best Luck!
 

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