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Forum topic by tvrgeek posted 02-25-2021 12:19 PM 457 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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tvrgeek

1747 posts in 2700 days


02-25-2021 12:19 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw

New saw, so thinking ( overthinking) from scratch.

We have lots of choices of course. I am leaning to HDPE, but wondering about it remaining strait between the securing bolts. It comes from 1/4 to 1 inch in affordable sheets about 24×48 inches. Several sell pre-cut 4 inch strips from 3/8 to 3/4.

I like jigs that straddle the fence, so leaning HDPE over maple, MDF, birch ply etc. though am I over-thinking and should just rip up some 3/4 MDF? Worth a face of Formica? Even Grade X Phenolic is not that expensive in a 24×48 sheet. ( assuming getting 6 strips)

The OEM fence is a steel beam with an odd “eu” aluminum extrusion. It may be handy for some things, as when flat, it gives clearance for a bush stick and upright, a little taller. Though quite thick reducing rip width by a couple inches.

I kind of want to settle on the width of my “normal” fences before I stick the fence scale on.


15 replies so far

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tvrgeek

1747 posts in 2700 days


#1 posted 02-25-2021 12:55 PM

Of course, about 25 different phenolic grades. X, L, C, as likely candidates. At least they are known where various woods ae not. HDPE can be virgin or recycled. I like Delrin, but expensive in 48 inch sheets.

If I go 3/4 or 1 inch on the left side, I can machine T-slots in it. But for just a feather board, two holes would work.

Nothing says I need the same material on both sides. Right side just has to be strait and clear the through bolts.

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HokieKen

17233 posts in 2189 days


#2 posted 02-25-2021 01:03 PM

I prefer UHMW to HDPE for jigs and such. It seems to wear slower and be less compliant to other surfaces when thinner pieces are used. But, it’s a little more expensive and a little less readily available than HDPE too and I think HDPE will work fine for this application. I would think 3/8” or 1/2” would be sufficient.

-- I collect hobbies. There is no sense in limiting yourself (Don W) - - - - - - - - Kenny in SW VA

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Fred Hargis

6917 posts in 3544 days


#3 posted 02-25-2021 01:15 PM

Should you choose either of the plastic materials (I like UHMW as well), there is a tape that you could use to secure it between the mechanical fasteners. That may eliminate any possible bowing/warping you’re worried about. It’s the Fast Cap speed tape. The one thing about it that may be a problem is they claim that over time it becomes permanent…so I’m not sure how you would replace the facing if needed. In any case, I’ve used this on UHMW (I still have my test piece) to stick it to a piece of white oak. That was in 2014, and it’s still strongly bonded.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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tvrgeek

1747 posts in 2700 days


#4 posted 02-25-2021 01:47 PM

Not heard of Fast Cap. I know of several 3M. For the basic first fence, may be the better way to go. I did not know there was stuff that could really stick to HDPE or UHMW.

Off to the Hardwood Store for some Birch ply so time to think.

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Robert

4519 posts in 2531 days


#5 posted 02-25-2021 02:09 PM

I eventually had issues with the HDPE on mine. Dust built up behind it not sure if the cause, but the fence developed irregularities I didn’t like.

I replaced it with a piece of ply, then went to MDF covered in HPL. It’s about 4” high, so it sticks up high enough the clamp a feather board. Can also be used to clamp a hold down or as a rail for sliding jigs. You can also make the fence a bit longer if you prefer. There was still enough slot left to re align the fence indicator.

I “temporarily” fastened with double back tape, but its been on there 6 months and is working well.

I’ve thought about putting a T track in it but just clamping the featherboard works good enough.

Can’t remember who I got the idea from, but seems to work well for me. Maybe worth a try.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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SMP

3773 posts in 956 days


#6 posted 02-25-2021 03:07 PM

Are you talking about the table saw? Or fence?

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tvrgeek

1747 posts in 2700 days


#7 posted 02-25-2021 03:58 PM

That is the kind of warning I appreciate. Exactly the kind of problem I want to avoid.
Going to go stare at it for a bit while I make a new basic crosscut sled.


I eventually had issues with the HDPE on mine. Dust built up behind it not sure if the cause, but the fence developed irregularities I didn t like.

I replaced it with a piece of ply, then went to MDF covered in HPL. It s about 4” high, so it sticks up high enough the clamp a feather board. Can also be used to clamp a hold down or as a rail for sliding jigs. You can also make the fence a bit longer if you prefer. There was still enough slot left to re align the fence indicator.

I “temporarily” fastened with double back tape, but its been on there 6 months and is working well.

I ve thought about putting a T track in it but just clamping the featherboard works good enough.

Can t remember who I got the idea from, but seems to work well for me. Maybe worth a try.

- Robert


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Davevand

260 posts in 1887 days


#8 posted 02-25-2021 04:26 PM

I have a PM table saw that had a UHMW face on the fence. Most of my projects are small so I work a lot with short boards, after about 6 years I noticed the saw was starting to burn the wood and when I looked for the cause it was the UHMW face on the fence. It had worn starting a few inches in front of the blade to a few inched behind the blade. It was .008 at the max but that was more than enough to cause burning. I replaced it with a piece of extruded aluminum.

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Fred Hargis

6917 posts in 3544 days


#9 posted 02-25-2021 04:43 PM

I’m sure this won’t sway your opinion one way or the othe, but I had 2 Delta saws that both had the Unifence, The fence is quite similar to what your saw has. I used those fences for a combined 20 years, and still think it was the best fence I’ve ever had. The one on my SS is good, but the Unifence was a lot more versatile….and didn’t need any facing on it.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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xeddog

336 posts in 4058 days


#10 posted 02-25-2021 05:26 PM

If I was going to be refacing the fence on my PM66, I think I would use Baltic Birch plywood and laminate it with Formica on the visible surfaces. Baltic Birch is very stable and the Formica laminate would help to keep it straight as well as providing a smooth, slick surface.

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splintergroup

4963 posts in 2273 days


#11 posted 02-25-2021 05:32 PM

I’m a bit leery of plastics for fence surfaces, they seem to expand/contract a bunch and depending on how they are secured, ripples can appear.

I semi retired my Biesmeyer fence since it seemed to have a minor twist and replaced it with the VSCT fence. For the facing I am currently just using a strip of 3/4” melamine. Very stable and slippery, cheap and easy to make alternate accessory height versions.

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MrUnix

8502 posts in 3249 days


#12 posted 02-25-2021 05:36 PM

If I was going to be refacing the fence on my PM66, I think I would use Baltic Birch plywood and laminate it with Formica on the visible surfaces. Baltic Birch is very stable and the Formica laminate would help to keep it straight as well as providing a smooth, slick surface.
- xeddog

The original Biesemeyer commercial fences used laminated Baltic birch…

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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tvrgeek

1747 posts in 2700 days


#13 posted 02-25-2021 05:53 PM

I assume you mean Melamine on PB? That is what my outfeed table is. Was not thinking of that as I was considering a T-slot to hold my various finger boards. PB is not the best for that.

UHD or Phenolic C or L is rather pricy. Works out to about $40 for a 4 inch strip in 3/4. Of course, if you do it once…
If I knew a kitchen contractor, scraps of Corian might be great. Probably, if really stable I could go 1/2 but that does not leave room for a slot.

I have a scrap pf Formica I could put on BB or MDF I guess. Guess is probably smart to start cheap and work my way up.

Getting used to it working up my first two “standard” sleds. Getting the riving knife dead on was a pain and it is pretty thick. Only about 6 thou clearance on a full kerf blade. But now with 3 HP, I should probably go full on all my blades.

I think I figured out the fence latch problem. They put in a magnet to help installing it, but popping it out has been difficult. Very strong.

Tempted to call VSCT and ask about them welding the T as an L instead. That would give a good 6 inches additional rip capacity for the same basic design. I don’t remember ever using my fence on the left anyway. Turn my 30 inch, into a 32 by just using a thinner fence face, and add a few more with the L and I could have 36 or 37 in the same footprint.

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EarlS

4395 posts in 3398 days


#14 posted 02-25-2021 05:57 PM

Peachtree has a UHMW /extruded aluminum fence set up that has worked on my unifence for a long time. It may be useable in your situation.

-- Earl "I'm a pessamist - generally that increases the chance that things will turn out better than expected"

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tvrgeek

1747 posts in 2700 days


#15 posted 02-25-2021 06:06 PM

That could be a handy piece. Has the slots where I want them.

Pessimist: The glass is half empty.
Optimist: The glass is half full.
Engineer: The glass is too big.


Peachtree has a UHMW /extruded aluminum fence set up that has worked on my unifence for a long time. It may be useable in your situation.

- EarlS


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