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Forum topic by dfox52 posted 01-26-2021 04:03 PM 413 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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dfox52

54 posts in 2698 days


01-26-2021 04:03 PM

Shopping for a new table saw and would like to get some opinions on a specific feature. Looking at the Grizzly G1023RLW series. This saw can come with an added optional cast iron router wing. But there is also the option of adding an “after market” accessory cast iron router wing to the standard configuration. The Grizzly T1244 after market accessory wing comes with an insert plate, “T-Tracks,” split fence, and dust port. While the included wing is basically a cast iron extension with a hole in it. Assuming you wanted a router table wing on your saw, and price difference was not an issue, (and you didn’t want to take the time to build your own) which setup would you choose?


10 replies so far

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tvrgeek

1369 posts in 2653 days


#1 posted 01-26-2021 05:31 PM

I just mounted the SawStop wing on my Ridgid. Just drilled a couple holes and made some legs. Any 27 inch top will fit about any table saw. I went SS as Amazon had free shipping. I like that now my full space to the right of the blade is table. I already had a Rockler split fence of my old PB router table. It fits my Kreg plate. Do watch, there are several sizes of router plates. I like the precision of the iron top over the PB/melamine I had.

If looking at saws, look at Harvey. No dis to the Griz. Looks like a nice saw too.

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Kudzupatch

109 posts in 2213 days


#2 posted 01-26-2021 07:08 PM

Sounds like a no brainer if cost is not a factorl

-- Jeff Horton * Kudzu Craft skin boats* www.kudzucraft.com

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dfox52

54 posts in 2698 days


#3 posted 01-26-2021 08:09 PM



I just mounted the SawStop wing on my Ridgid. Just drilled a couple holes and made some legs. Any 27 inch top will fit about any table saw. I went SS as Amazon had free shipping. I like that now my full space to the right of the blade is table. I already had a Rockler split fence of my old PB router table. It fits my Kreg plate. Do watch, there are several sizes of router plates. I like the precision of the iron top over the PB/melamine I had.

If looking at saws, look at Harvey. No dis to the Griz. Looks like a nice saw too.

- tvrgeek

Ya, I understand the fit is pretty much standardized and I could easily mount an after market wing on any saw. Not set on a Grizzly either. But generally speaking, if I did go with this saw, mostly trying to visualize if the lack of a “T-rack” would ever be an issue.

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tvrgeek

1369 posts in 2653 days


#4 posted 01-26-2021 08:12 PM

I use my router T-track. Not only for a miter gauge, but more often for my finger boards.

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dfox52

54 posts in 2698 days


#5 posted 01-26-2021 08:44 PM



Sounds like a no brainer if cost is not a factorl

- Kudzupatch

Because??

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dfox52

54 posts in 2698 days


#6 posted 01-26-2021 08:46 PM



I use my router T-track. Not only for a miter gauge, but more often for my finger boards.

- tvrgeek

I’m inclined to agree and think I might wind up regretting not having a T slot

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tvrgeek

1369 posts in 2653 days


#7 posted 01-26-2021 09:53 PM

Buy the wrong one, and you will have to buy it again. Saving a few bucks is usually the most expensive option.

My TS outfeed is also my main work bench, do behind the saw I have a 4×5 top which also serves as a longer infeed to the router top. Outfeed I can use my roller stand

Some suggest the mag clamps are strong enough, but I prefer my T-slot finger boards

If DIY, of course you can add a T-track to the top. My old Rockler had a u-channel of the right size. I intend to make my fence backs taller and add a T-track to them for hold down fingers.

I do wish the table and saw manufactures would talk every now and again. Where two of the reinforced mount holes were in the SS top, the saw had webs. No big deal, 3 went into clear space so only 2 holes into a slightly thinner section. I made a pair of adjustable legs that bolt to the top half way out out of my usual fab material: old bed frames. I do love my cobalt split-point drill bits!

You can bet, all the iron tops are made in the same foundry.

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DaveSchmitt

5 posts in 374 days


#8 posted 01-26-2021 10:25 PM

I like my fingers. Saw Stop

-- Dave, Boise Id

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dfox52

54 posts in 2698 days


#9 posted 01-27-2021 01:27 AM


I use my router T-track. Not only for a miter gauge, but more often for my finger boards.

- tvrgeek

I’m inclined to agree and think I might wind up regretting not having a T slot


Buy the wrong one, and you will have to buy it again. Saving a few bucks is usually the most expensive option.

My TS outfeed is also my main work bench, do behind the saw I have a 4×5 top which also serves as a longer infeed to the router top. Outfeed I can use my roller stand

Some suggest the mag clamps are strong enough, but I prefer my T-slot finger boards

If DIY, of course you can add a T-track to the top. My old Rockler had a u-channel of the right size. I intend to make my fence backs taller and add a T-track to them for hold down fingers.

I do wish the table and saw manufactures would talk every now and again. Where two of the reinforced mount holes were in the SS top, the saw had webs. No big deal, 3 went into clear space so only 2 holes into a slightly thinner section. I made a pair of adjustable legs that bolt to the top half way out out of my usual fab material: old bed frames. I do love my cobalt split-point drill bits!

You can bet, all the iron tops are made in the same foundry.

- tvrgeek


Exactly… Too bad they can’t get together and design a table saw with a router extension like it should be.

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CWWoodworking

1484 posts in 1183 days


#10 posted 01-27-2021 02:16 AM

I might be wrong but isn’t there a 5hp motor option on the prepackaged deal? This would be important to me.

If it’s just simple stuff the plain Jane ext will do. If this is your main table, probably go the other way.

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