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Track saw clamps not too deep

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Forum topic by tvrgeek posted 01-24-2021 01:17 PM 862 views 0 times favorited 49 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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tvrgeek

1388 posts in 2656 days


01-24-2021 01:17 PM

Topic tags/keywords: clamp

My reason for a track saw is to size sheets I can no longer handle. 3/4 MDF I can’t lift.
So, got a Makita 6 1/2 inch cordless saw (nice) and used my cheap HD straightedge clamp with just a 1 1/2 inch foam board on the ground. So I can pull a sheet out of the truck onto the ground and size.

So, I bought the Bora jig. Sure, cheap plastic but cheep. Looks like it would work well BUT, The guide clamps require you to be several inches off the ground. Looked at high end ( Makita, DeWalt) and they too require being off the ground. My entire point is I can’t get this work off the ground. Just friction strips on the Makita is not my choice either.

Question: Does anyone know of a guide rail I can mount my saw on that does not require below the wood clamping. The HF rail toggle goes from above to flat, so it clears, but it is a narrow guide and of course not a sled.


49 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

6826 posts in 3500 days


#1 posted 01-24-2021 01:38 PM

Clamping will pretty much require squeezing from both sides. That said, all the rails I’ve seen require some clearance the bottom. the friction strips work fairly well IME, but the slicker the surface (like MDF) the more likely they won’t hold.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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Jared_S

445 posts in 966 days


#2 posted 01-24-2021 01:45 PM

In the all they years I’ve owned a track saw I’ve never clamped the track.

View ohtimberwolf's profile

ohtimberwolf

1058 posts in 3359 days


#3 posted 01-24-2021 01:48 PM

Never used what you are using but wouldn’t sliding them off onto 3 2×2’s do the job?

-- Just a barn cat, now gone to cat heaven.

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tvrgeek

1388 posts in 2656 days


#4 posted 01-24-2021 01:58 PM



Never used what you are using but wouldn t sliding them off onto 3 2×2 s do the job?

- ohtimberwolf


Unfortunately, the Bora levers are about 4 inches. Yea, I could build boxes, but then the foam board is not well supported.

Thinking about modifications, maybe combining the Bora with a strait edge clamp that does not require as much clearance. It would maybe even reinforce the joint for 8 foot cuts.

View BlasterStumps's profile

BlasterStumps

1923 posts in 1446 days


#5 posted 01-24-2021 02:37 PM

I made a couple that are similar in fashion to universal T-track hold down clamps.

-- "I build for function first, looks second. Most times I never get around to looks." MIke in CO

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

8678 posts in 3805 days


#6 posted 01-24-2021 03:15 PM

What is wrong with a straight piece of 3/4” plywood and two 2” C clamps? I’ve done it that way forever. Needs about 3/4” clearance. I don’t understand why people buy track saws.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

View SuperCubber's profile

SuperCubber

1169 posts in 3291 days


#7 posted 01-24-2021 03:32 PM

This should do it.

https://www.kregtool.com/shop/cutting/circular-saw-cutting/rip-cut/KMA2685.html

-- Joe | Spartanburg, SC | "To give anything less than your best is to sacrafice the gift." - Steve Prefontaine

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Madmark2

2277 posts in 1595 days


#8 posted 01-24-2021 03:59 PM

Always used saw horses and a few 2×4s as a stand to break down sheets.

Normally the first breakdown cuts are rough with a circ saw and then perfected on the TS.

Have used a 1×4 & C-clamps as cutting guide.

-- The hump with the stump and the pump!

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tvrgeek

1388 posts in 2656 days


#9 posted 01-24-2021 04:20 PM



What is wrong with a straight piece of 3/4” plywood and two 2” C clamps? I’ve done it that way forever. Needs about 3/4” clearance. I don’t understand why people buy track saws.

- shipwright

Just slightly more accurate cuts. Not a lot, but some.

View tvrgeek's profile

tvrgeek

1388 posts in 2656 days


#10 posted 01-24-2021 04:21 PM



Always used saw horses and a few 2×4s as a stand to break down sheets.

Normally the first breakdown cuts are rough with a circ saw and then perfected on the TS.

Have used a 1×4 & C-clamps as cutting guide.

I can’t lift it onto saw horses. 20 years ago, fine. Not now.

- Madmark2


View Axis39's profile

Axis39

430 posts in 604 days


#11 posted 01-24-2021 04:25 PM



What is wrong with a straight piece of 3/4” plywood and two 2” C clamps? I’ve done it that way forever. Needs about 3/4” clearance. I don’t understand why people buy track saws.

- shipwright

This has been my solution for years as well. Although, in recent years, i build my own designated track, MDF and some metal u channel works fantastic.

I use some f-clamps to hold it in place… Which wouldn’t work for the OP. But, my back and knees are such that I can’t work low… But, luckily I am still strong enough to move plywood sheets around.

Different strokes and all that.

I would definitely suggest finding some small c-clamps.


This should do it.

https://www.kregtool.com/shop/cutting/circular-saw-cutting/rip-cut/KMA2685.html

- SuperCubber

I own one of these and have yet to find a saw plate that it fits. The couple of saws I’ve owned while owning this have an angled front edge. The screws used to hold the Kreg to the saw never holds it flat, or sturdily enough.

I’ve rigged it up, used different screws, fiddled with it… Got it kinda working. The results were fine, but, honestly, it took longer and more effort to get the saw re-attached than it was worth.

I’m a huge Kreg fan, but not even remotely a fan of this particular Kreg waste of my money… It’s currently gathering dust on a shelf and has been for a while.

-- John F. SoCal transplant, chewer uppper of good wood

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SuperCubber

1169 posts in 3291 days


#12 posted 01-24-2021 04:27 PM



I own one of these and have yet to find a saw plate that it fits. The couple of saws I ve owned while owning this have an angled front edge. The screws used to hold the Kreg to the saw never holds it flat, or sturdily enough.

I ve rigged it up, used different screws, fiddled with it… Got it kinda working. The results were fine, but, honestly, it took longer and more effort to get the saw re-attached than it was worth.

I m a huge Kreg fan, but not even remotely a fan of this particular Kreg waste of my money… It s currently gathering dust on a shelf and has been for a while.

- Axis39

Send it to tvrgeek!

-- Joe | Spartanburg, SC | "To give anything less than your best is to sacrafice the gift." - Steve Prefontaine

View LeeRoyMan's profile

LeeRoyMan

1533 posts in 734 days


#13 posted 01-24-2021 05:01 PM


I don’t understand why people buy track saws.

- shipwright

Lack of talent….

View Loren's profile

Loren

11010 posts in 4655 days


#14 posted 01-24-2021 05:05 PM

These older ones have a smaller lever, presumably a design decision. Good luck finding them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000224DK

You could take a Bora or similar clamp and cut the lever short. People must have complained about the old lever so manufacturers made them longer.

These things were under patent when I got into woodworking. I suspect the knock offs drove the original maker out of business. It was called “clamp and tool guide”.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

6396 posts in 3316 days


#15 posted 01-24-2021 05:17 PM


I don’t understand why people buy track saws.

- shipwright

Lack of talent….

- LeeRoyMan


Because they are lighter, can easily be longer than 8 feet, they can be locked together for a really long cut, there are guides for other tools to be used on them and the rubber on the back allows no clamping most of the time and the rubber on the edge gives a zero splintering effect. I don’t have to spend time building wooden ones. Having use homemade ones and using store bought ones I prefer the store bought one.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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