which tablesaw blade

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Forum topic by Fezig posted 01-24-2021 06:39 AM 398 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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16 posts in 915 days

01-24-2021 06:39 AM

Hello all

I am in the process of creating an end grain cutting board and am hoping to draw on the collective wisdom for some advice. I’m creating the board and need to cut off 1/4 from a couple of the edges in order to prepare to laminate additional end grain strips. I’d like to find a way to get a clean cut. I could probably shave a small amount off little by little, but was wondering if there was another way by using the “right” TS blade to do it in one shot. Neither a rip nor a crosscut seem to be what I’d think would be it given the grain orientation of the end grain. Combo blade? In case it factors into your thoughts, the board is 7/4 of various hardwoods.

Any thoughts / advice would be greatly appreciated.

-- Jim - Fort Collins, CO

7 replies so far

View 75c's profile


144 posts in 34 days

#1 posted 01-24-2021 06:51 AM

I would think about an f40 fried

View tvrgeek's profile


1388 posts in 2656 days

#2 posted 01-24-2021 10:23 AM

If I get the problem, the teeth will be slicing with the grain, even though the orientation is not a typical rip. So my 24 tooth rip would be my choice.

View Robert's profile


4435 posts in 2487 days

#3 posted 01-24-2021 12:45 PM

A good sharp glue line rip should do it. Freud or CMT.

A 40T Forrest will also do it.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Fezig's profile


16 posts in 915 days

#4 posted 01-24-2021 07:38 PM

Thanks for the ideas. One of the reasons I was asking is that I had used mt 24T Freud thin kerf rip blade (I don’t have the most powerful TS…) and while it made the cut (not necessarily as cleanly as I’d have liked, but not bad), it took more to push it through than it had when I ripped the same big block of wood with the grain oriented more typically. The added effort and the less than super clean surface that was left was what lead me to question the blade choice. I suppose though that the atypical grain orientation probably is the difference in terms of drag.

I should be at the stage to try some experiments tomorrow. I’ve got some leftover end grain strips from other cutting boards I’ve made that I’ll use to see how it goes.

-- Jim - Fort Collins, CO

View therealSteveN's profile


7222 posts in 1581 days

#5 posted 01-24-2021 07:59 PM

Having done this for a lot of years, and on a number of different types of TS’s I would suggest a sharp blade, and a feed rate that is in synch with your TS’s HP rating, versus the density, and thickness of the wood to be sawn will always be more important than the width of your kerf.

Personally I have used thin kerf blades, and when I did I always had issues with cuts I never have seen using full kerf blades. From that I can only say that deflection is real, and problematic.

Not to mention the splitter supplied with your TS, an excellent safety device, likely is too thick to work well with a TK blade. So you may have issues in regard to that.

-- Think safe, be safe

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1388 posts in 2656 days

#6 posted 01-24-2021 10:28 PM

Cut is with the grain, so a thin kerf rip blade. Be sure it both sharp and clean. Be sure your fence alignment is dead on. I have cut 2 inch tenons on my Ridgid in oak and many a raised panel with no problem at all. Yes, thin blades can deflect more and do not have the cut quality of a full width glue line blade, But that would take a 3HP saw. No, you are not going to get a perfect glue line with a thin 24 tooth.

You could take it down to just a hair with the rip, change to a fine cut for a half a blade skim.

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16 posts in 915 days

#7 posted 01-26-2021 01:25 AM

Just to report back, I used the 24T thin kerf rip and took skim coats. It took a little while, but there’s now a great glue line. Thanks, again all!

-- Jim - Fort Collins, CO

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