LumberJocks Woodworking Forum banner

What is the best finish?

2K views 26 replies 19 participants last post by  CaptainKlutz 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I am wondering what the best finish is for wood projects. I see a lot of people using beeswax or some kind of an oil to finish projects with. Are those good ones to use or is there other ones that are better. What I am making is cutting boards, coaster's, and jewelry holders. Only thing I have used in the past was polyurethane for the furniture I make.

Just wondering what the best finish would be.
 
#2 ·
For finishing small projects and even furniture, I'm in the oil finish camp. I use Minwax Antique Oil as my base with thinned coats sanded in with wet-dry automotive finishing paper in 600 or finer grit. Multiple applications over several days until I get the level of luster and grain filling desired. I wait 24 hours between each application. For food items such as cutting boards I use one of the salad bowl oils such as Watco Butcher Block Oil. On turned items, I use wax free shellac as a base before applying oil.
Many ways to skin a cat…
Regards, The Kentucky Toolsmith!
 
#3 ·
There is no such thing as "best finish for wood projects". There is, however, best choices for certain types of projects….though everyone has a different slant on what they are. For the stuff you names I would use mineral oil on the cutting boards (along with a statament on how to care for and renew the finish), probably a varnish on the coasters (call it "ploy" if you want) and probably shellac or nitro lacquer on the jewelry holders. I might also consider a waterborne on the latter. But this is just one of the many opinions on what to use.
 
#4 ·
Well, my go to finish for "most" things is GF Arm-r-seal. But i wouldn't use it on cutting boards, for things that actually get cut on i just use pure tung oil. If i want a more traditional looking finish I use various methods, one of them being what Kytoolsmith wrote.
 
#5 ·
I agree with Fred on all these. Boxes need something that doesn't smell or have a long dry time before all the solvents evaporate, A closed box (and drawers) hold these odors for a very long time. Shellac gives a fine looking surface and pops the grain. The overwhelming favorite for boards is some mineral oil (maybe blended with bees wax, heated up and applied), or one of the other non-rancid turning nut oils. No film finish as this will quickly turn into a big mess.

For coasters, the cutting board formulas are good (with the maintenance), but a film finish is great protection, but if any moisture gets through it will start to peel.

Also consider ways to pre-finish the insides of boxes. It is much easier to get an even finish if you need to rub out or sand the finish and not have to worry about getting into the interior corners.
 
#6 ·
for cutting boards mineral oil,for everything else i use the maloof oil blend,or general finishes oil based finishes such as arm r seal.experiment until you find the one that you like,there is no perfect finish.
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
As you can see everyone has a different idea on how to finish things.

A couple here that I disagree with. First shellac under oil. The shellac will prevent the oil from penetrating. Second mineral oil is fine but it never dries or "cures". When wax is added it helps.
General's wood bowl finish is a hard finish not suitable for cutting boards but quite durable on salad bowls and other similar items. I use it all the time on salad bowls. Even General suggest using a oil/wax finish on cutting boards.

My preference is processed or heat treated walnut oil for cutting boards and food utensils; also works on other small wood working items and can be top coated with a hard finish. It penetrates and cures to a dry state, can be re-applied as needed and a wax top coat can be added. WoodCraft has a walnut oil and wax paste that makes a good top coat. Processed walnut oil does NOT become rancid as one person suggested and is non allergenic due to the heat treatment. Mahoney's is a good brand.

For items like jewelry boxes shellac is good, quick, and easy. It comes clear or amber and other colors can be added. Most other finishes can take months to to fully cure and lose the odor that can be trap inside a box or cupboard. I have put poly on clock cases that have given off an odor for over a year every time I open the case to wind the clock.
 
#9 ·
LesB, I use shellac under oil on turned items for exactly the reason you give… It seals the wood when finishing on the lathe. That way I'm not using as much "oil" to create the top coat finish and I have lower curing time during on-lathe finishing. I've done this with both Minwax Antique Oil and Watco Danish Oil with good results. I didn't invent the method… Read it in one of my books on turning.
Regards, The Kentucky Toolsmith!
 
#10 ·
I am wondering what the best finish is for wood projects.

- nate22
I am not being sarcastic but I honestly don't think there is any one real answer to this question. Do you want shiny or satin or flat or the bare wood look? What species of wood is being finished? Do you want to spray it, brush it, wipe it?

Finishes are like a certain body part. Everybody's got one, but the upside of that is that the possibilities are endless.
 
#11 ·
You really need to look up finishes and there applications. Each project may have a different need..

I may use a pre-cat on top, but polyurethane on the top to repair future scratches.

It just varies. Sherwin and Williams calls th eir conversion varnish the Cadillac of finishes..
Wood Table Hardwood Gas Musical instrument accessory
 

Attachments

#13 ·
As you can see everyone has a different idea on how to finish things.

A couple here that I disagree with. First shellac under oil. The shellac will prevent the oil from penetrating. Second mineral oil is fine but it never dries or "cures". When wax is added it helps.
General s wood bowl finish is a hard finish not suitable for cutting boards but quite durable on salad bowls and other similar items. I use it all the time on salad bowls. Even General suggest using a oil/wax finish on cutting boards.

My preference is processed or heat treated walnut oil for cutting boards and food utensils; also works on other small wood working items and can be top coated with a hard finish. It penetrates and cures to a dry state, can be re-applied as needed and a wax top coat can be added. WoodCraft has a walnut oil and wax paste that makes a good top coat. Processed walnut oil does NOT become rancid as one person suggested and is non allergenic due to the heat treatment. Mahoney s is a good brand.

For items like jewelry boxes shellac is good, quick, and easy. It comes clear or amber and other colors can be added. Most other finishes can take months to to fully cure and lose the odor that can be trap inside a box or cupboard. I have put poly on clock cases that have given off an odor for over a year every time I open the case to wind the clock.

- LesB
ive heard you talk about walnut oil many times,i think i need too give it a try les.
 
#14 ·
As you can see everyone has a different idea on how to finish things.

A couple here that I disagree with. First shellac under oil. The shellac will prevent the oil from penetrating. Second mineral oil is fine but it never dries or "cures". When wax is added it helps.
General s wood bowl finish is a hard finish not suitable for cutting boards but quite durable on salad bowls and other similar items. I use it all the time on salad bowls. Even General suggest using a oil/wax finish on cutting boards.

My preference is processed or heat treated walnut oil for cutting boards and food utensils; also works on other small wood working items and can be top coated with a hard finish. It penetrates and cures to a dry state, can be re-applied as needed and a wax top coat can be added. WoodCraft has a walnut oil and wax paste that makes a good top coat. Processed walnut oil does NOT become rancid as one person suggested and is non allergenic due to the heat treatment. Mahoney s is a good brand.

For items like jewelry boxes shellac is good, quick, and easy. It comes clear or amber and other colors can be added. Most other finishes can take months to to fully cure and lose the odor that can be trap inside a box or cupboard. I have put poly on clock cases that have given off an odor for over a year every time I open the case to wind the clock.

- LesB

ive heard you talk about walnut oil many times,i think i need too give it a try les.

- pottz
And let's not forget about my latest arrow in the quiver…Rubio Monocoat and the other wax finishes.
 
#15 ·
As you can see everyone has a different idea on how to finish things.

A couple here that I disagree with. First shellac under oil. The shellac will prevent the oil from penetrating. Second mineral oil is fine but it never dries or "cures". When wax is added it helps.
General s wood bowl finish is a hard finish not suitable for cutting boards but quite durable on salad bowls and other similar items. I use it all the time on salad bowls. Even General suggest using a oil/wax finish on cutting boards.

My preference is processed or heat treated walnut oil for cutting boards and food utensils; also works on other small wood working items and can be top coated with a hard finish. It penetrates and cures to a dry state, can be re-applied as needed and a wax top coat can be added. WoodCraft has a walnut oil and wax paste that makes a good top coat. Processed walnut oil does NOT become rancid as one person suggested and is non allergenic due to the heat treatment. Mahoney s is a good brand.

For items like jewelry boxes shellac is good, quick, and easy. It comes clear or amber and other colors can be added. Most other finishes can take months to to fully cure and lose the odor that can be trap inside a box or cupboard. I have put poly on clock cases that have given off an odor for over a year every time I open the case to wind the clock.

- LesB

ive heard you talk about walnut oil many times,i think i need too give it a try les.

- pottz

And let s not forget about my latest arrow in the quiver…Rubio Monocoat and the other wax finishes.

- Andybb
got a sample yesterday andy gonna try it out tomorrow,ill let ya now my thoughts on your review thread.
 
#16 · (Edited by Moderator)
It depends on the end use of the product. There is no ONE good finish for everything. For cutting boards you need food safe finishes and there are lots of them. for outdoors you might want a UV resistant finish. For tables where you will have alcoholic drinks, you might want a lacquer. For chairs with high use and handling, you might want a polyurethane or lacquer.

For most everything that will have a lacquer or poly finish, it is a good idea to use shellac for a first coat ( sealer). It is a "primer" for any finish too..even paint.

If I use an oil, though, I like to put it on bare wood..maybe 2 coats.

Good luck, Nate….............Cheers, Jim
 
#17 ·
As others said there is no 1 best finish. Depends on the application - use, desired look, durability, etc. Gain some knowledge about different finishes. Here are my favorite resources. Next dedicate time to experimenting with different finishes. Finishing is a skill that needs development just like other ww skills.
 
#20 ·
This isn't a practical answer, just something interesting that I think about-once upon a time a friend made a simple hand rail with a piece of apple wood from his yard. He sanded and buffed it very smooth, but applied no stain or finish. Over time it became polished just from being touched. It became quite beautiful in a couple of years, the wood darkened and developed a lovely mellow glow.
 
#21 ·
+1 read some books on finishing.
Hopefully several from different authors, so you can avoid brand or process bias. Fine Woodworking has some good references that are compilations of past articles with additional editor content.

+1 Best wood finish = oxymoron

The reason wood workers have so many finishing options available, is because there is no ONE best solution for all projects.
- Large projects or repeated work in business values fast spray application and short dry/cure over other parameters, unless it is used in Kitchen/Bath and needs to meet KCMA standards.
- Hobbyist want something easy to find at local big box store (even if most are 'one trick pony' finishes).
- Tables built for homes with kids needs to have either: the most durable finish possible (Formica laminate, or maybe conversion varnish), or something really easy to repair.
- IME One key criteria for best project finish is one with large process window in the builders environment. Meaning might use different finish when it is cold, warm, or hot outside on exact same project.

Folks have tossed out other options above, which support this list goes on and on.

Best Luck.
 
#22 ·
Mineral oil, with or without wax, for cutting boards and wooden spoons. It won't last long either way. For fancy stuff, these days my favorite finish is Waterlox Original. For small walnut and Cherry boxes, Minwax Antique Oil gives a lovely finish that really feels good to the touch.
 
#23 ·
One and only one correct answer to the OP question: It depends.

Virtually every finish has a correct application. I have used everything from olive oil to 2K poly. Hmmm. Not true. Never used milk paint.

My current project I am not sure about. Walnut veneer dashboard. Very hostile environment. 2k clear coat maybe, but it looks a bit plastic.
 
#25 ·
Here are a few of my go-to finishes for different types of projects:

For a piece that doesn't get handled much and wants to feature the beauty of the natural wood (picture frame, small decorative turning piece, clock face) I might go as little as a coat of wax or maybe a couple coats of boiled oil or a quick coat of shellac. Each is very easy to apply and lets the wood do the talking.

For something that needs a bit "more" (decorative boxes especially) I use a number of coats of shellac padded on and maybe followed by a coat of paste wax. It's easy to get something to the exact luster I like (which is mostly satin) but it can be polished to a gloss if you like.

For furniture, I have used Waterlox for years although most wiping varnishes will do as well or maybe better. They are easy to apply but might take more time and some sanding between coats. You can get varying degrees of luster with enough coats and I've found Waterlox (and also Minwax Wiping Varnish) to be effective against water and reasonable use. It's flexible to use and looks great.

If I were in a commercial shop doing production work, I'd definitely look into spraying lacquer. It's fast and fixable, but the set up is tricky.

My suggestion is to glean the experiences here and maybe on youtube to get an idea about the kind of stuff you'll be making and the finishes people have used. Good luck.
 
#26 ·
The BEST finish of all is the ONE that gives to your projects , the luster, the "finish", the tact, the enhancement, that ONLY YOU want for that particular project, so at the end, when somebody look at the project, he or she can say it is yours. Its your piece. The finish is as important as any other aspect of a project. Sometimes experimentation takes you to discover that finish only you can dictate and give to your projects. I have seen people using oil artist colors as a finish. I used yellow ocre and Titanium white to finish construction wood (Douglas fir maybe?) and bring it closer to a Hard Maple top in a Workbench. Thomas Moser uses Linen Seed oil for his projects, an he discovered that heating up the oil to certain temperatures, Cherry Wood sucks up much faster the oil, so it creates a more durable and lasting finish…..so all is about experimentation and research.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top