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Crown molding hell-jig

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Forum topic by tvrgeek posted 01-23-2021 11:10 AM 597 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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tvrgeek

1419 posts in 2658 days


01-23-2021 11:10 AM

Topic tags/keywords: miter saw jig question

OK, Thought I would be smart and “upgraded” to a compound miter saw. Big mistake. Flexible, inaccurate, confusing and curved cuts no mater how much good advice I got from this forum.

What I really needed was a jig. I looked at all the “reviews” out there and they look to be cut-and-paste from someone who read the package. Nothing from anyone who actually used one on typical crooked walls.

Any advice? Kreg, Milescraft and Bench Dog seem to be the ones always in the no-review-review advertisements.

Or is the right way just to clamp a lip across my saw to hold it at the install angle?


18 replies so far

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AMZ

287 posts in 398 days


#1 posted 01-23-2021 11:50 AM

You answered your question with your last sentence.

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tvrgeek

1419 posts in 2658 days


#2 posted 01-23-2021 12:20 PM

Kind of thought so. Thanks.

I spent darn near a day filing and shimming my Ridgid to be closer to accurate, at least crosscut. It’s miter adjustments are crude, so I may try to design a threaded micro adjuster. I regret selling my old non-compound old Delta. I wish reviews of saws were more than feature summaries focused on job-site carpentry. Yea, I know, that is their design market.

View controlfreak's profile

controlfreak

1763 posts in 610 days


#3 posted 01-23-2021 12:28 PM

The bed of the miter saw is always the ceiling (if you didn’t already know this but other may not). The clamp a lip should work well and would mimic the work holder the is usually missing on the old hand saw miter boxes. Kreg makes a saw jig here It seems like I have also seen a jig to make sure you have the molding bedded at the proper angle when nailing in place.

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tvrgeek

1419 posts in 2658 days


#4 posted 01-23-2021 12:42 PM

Watched several videos. Of course, all are perfect and easy, magically solving everything.

Making a jig to hold in place for nailing would be a big help. Next time for sure. For some reason, me and trim never seem to get along. My last project, trim from the same HD, not all the profiles were exactly the same board to board.

My last house was easier, as it was a Levitt so had virtually no trim. I prefer the Craftsman style, so much of the trim I put in was square. My current house is “nuvo eclectic” so it has a mix of Colonial, Victorian, and modern trim. I am sort of tempted to rip it all out and do it my way. Stupid popcorn ceilings. But gad, the cost would add up.

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1thumb

248 posts in 3165 days


#5 posted 01-23-2021 01:59 PM

Cut crown flat using compound cut. Old Hitachi’s have a diamond for standrd crown bevel nd miter, a circle for same on cove crown

-- I actually have two thumbs. Both prehensile and opposing.

View AMZ's profile

AMZ

287 posts in 398 days


#6 posted 01-23-2021 02:08 PM

I have. Dewalt supplied “lips”, but I find it easier/more accurate, to hot glue a piece of stock across the bed of the miter saw (do not glue to the swiveling part of the table). As posted, remember the bed is the ceiling!

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hotbyte

1045 posts in 3984 days


#7 posted 01-23-2021 02:31 PM

Agree on using the lip, called a crown stop, set for spring angle and setting miter saw to 45*.

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LeeRoyMan

1537 posts in 735 days


#8 posted 01-23-2021 03:11 PM

Walls, ceilings, and corners are never true.
It doesn’t matter what kind of jig or saw you use.
The only answer is test fitting each corner as you go,
unless you’re using paintgrade and just plan on caulking open gaps.

View SMP's profile

SMP

3429 posts in 914 days


#9 posted 01-23-2021 03:14 PM

I have the Kreg jig. It came with the spring angle gauge. If you follow all directions it works really well. But as mentioned most houses the walls and ceilings are never square so sometimes you get conditions where your cut is perfect, but it just won’t fit into the space right, the wall and or ceiling twist and bend the wood etc.

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1thumb

248 posts in 3165 days


#10 posted 01-23-2021 03:18 PM

Cope for best results in jacked up corners and ceilings

-- I actually have two thumbs. Both prehensile and opposing.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

6397 posts in 3317 days


#11 posted 01-23-2021 05:11 PM

What saw did you upgrade to that is Flexible, inaccurate, confusing and curved cuts

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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1thumb

248 posts in 3165 days


#12 posted 01-23-2021 05:22 PM



What saw did you upgrade to that is Flexible, inaccurate, confusing and curved cuts

- AlaskaGuy

He said Rigid downthread. I’ve gotten funky curved cuts from expensive ultra-thin kerf finish blades before. I buy the mid range priced ones now

-- I actually have two thumbs. Both prehensile and opposing.

View Jared_S's profile

Jared_S

446 posts in 968 days


#13 posted 01-23-2021 05:29 PM

Slider or fixed pivot? Sliders just add to the inaccuracies.

A decent full kerf blade makes a difference, though it will likely cost almost half what you paid for the saw.

View BurlyBob's profile

BurlyBob

8482 posts in 3274 days


#14 posted 01-23-2021 05:30 PM

ControlFreak. Thanks for that tip about the bed being the ceiling. I’ve always had trouble with crown moldings. I’ve struggled and got them right somehow.

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

7083 posts in 2729 days


#15 posted 01-23-2021 05:40 PM

I always flat cut crown and use a little math to figure out the angles. I briefly had a SCMS but my non-sliding 10” Ridgid was pretty accurate out of the box, FWIW I use a CMT blade. I always cut a little long too as the tape measure blade is always straighter than the curvy wall. I always cope too as it just fits much better.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

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